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Best water pump for 440

pro-streeter

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Looking for recommendations on the best water pump for 440
Considering aluminum housing and pump. Car will be using vintage air system
Any manufacture recommendations would be appreciated
 
Somebody post a link to the big water pump thread, please.

If I recall correctly (IIRC) the stock housing is the best due to issues the aftermarket ones have.
 
Don’t get the 440 source one. They had a history of partial passage blockages. I’ve got the aftermarket aluminum housing from Mancini Racing and it works great. You want the pump with 6 fin blade Milodon HV impeller (also from Mancini or Bouchillon).

here’s one of many
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/water-pump-****.81077/
 
Be aware that greater number of fins generally equates to faster coolant flow which actually does not always equal better cooling. The 6 fin pump setup works well because it gives the coolant more time in the radiator so heat can be drawn out. If you look at stock big block pumps specified by Chrysler that is why the big block pumps had the lower fin count.
 
Ditto on the FlowKooler. Have had one on my Charger, 383 for 3 years now. Very happy with it.
 
Don’t get the 440 source one. They had a history of partial passage blockages. I’ve got the aftermarket aluminum housing from Mancini Racing and it works great. You want the pump with 6 fin blade Milodon HV impeller (also from Mancini or Bouchillon).

here’s one of many
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/water-pump-****.81077/
Thank you for the information
 
Be aware that greater number of fins generally equates to faster coolant flow which actually does not always equal better cooling. The 6 fin pump setup works well because it gives the coolant more time in the radiator so heat can be drawn out. If you look at stock big block pumps specified by Chrysler that is why the big block pumps had the lower fin count.

Time in the radiator is key I can see why a six versus an eight could produce better cooling
 
Home / Commons Questions about Hi Flow Pumps
COMMONS QUESTIONS ABOUT HI FLOW PUMPS
Why Make a Hi Flow Water Pump?
FlowKooler introduced the first hi flow pumps to the aftermarket and continues to improve impeller design to this day. Increased flow helps cool a hot engine by reducing the cycle time between the heat source and the heat sink. This increase exposure creates more opportunities to shed heat and drop the engine temperature. FlowKooler’s impellers are precision machined from billet aluminum and designed to increase flow of the coolant. Impellers feature larger diameters, tighter vane-to-casting clearances, shrouding, porting and have incremental vanes.

These design elements are incorporated into the impeller for one purpose; to generate more flow to cool hot engines. Each impeller is protected from corrosion with a Military grade Type II Class II anodized surface coating to protect against corrosion and the damages of electrolysis.

Engines at idle, engine cruising at slow speeds or engines stuck in stop-and-go conditions have something in common; lower coolant flow rate and reduced air circulation through the radiator. Flowkooler pumps increase the flow and create highway-speed flow rates. The pumps continue to deliver higher flow all along the rpm curve and when system throughput is maximized, FlowKooler pumps build block pressure. Increasing the block pressure by as much as 22% helps reduces hot spots on cylinder walls, prevents the formation of steam pockets in the engine block and prevents the cavitation of the impeller.

FlowKooler hi flow water pumps’ incremental vanes carve up the workload and conserve as much as 2.2% horsepower.

Because FlowKooler pumps reduce engine temperatures as much as 30 degrees, they are frequently recommended by aluminum radiator manufacturers as a necessary tool of cooling for hot engines with thin radiator cores and reduced capacity.

Who uses a Hi Flow Water Pump?
A lot of people. Whether it is in stop and go traffic, a slow moving parade, in line at a car show, off road on the trails or hauling a heavy load up a grade, cars and trucks experience reduced airflow through the radiator due to slower speeds. The lower rpm reduces the cycle time between engine and the heat exchanger (radiator). Designing pumps to flow more helps. FlowKooler has sold pumps to muscle car owners, street rodders, off road rock crawlers, people towing RVs and horse trailers, boat owners and even Propane powered trucks! We even get request for bespoke impellers for industrial applications like gensets and oil field pumps.

Isn't every water pump hi flow?
You would think so reading their web sites and catalog listings. The reality is any manufacturer can claim high flow rate and few make any effort to material change their product. If their brand is strong enough it just becomes accepted. The proof however lies inside the pump. Flip the pump around and take a look at the impeller. If you see the same stamped steel or the same casting in all of them then you have your answer. Its all coming from the same plant in China.

What are the benefits of a hi flow water pump?
1. Higher Flow Rates Lower Engine Temperature

Most engines keep cool at highway speed. It makes sense; the engine is turning the water pump rapidly and sending coolant through the radiator. The radiator has good airflow at highway speed and hot air is being sucked out of the engine compartment. Of course engines stay cooler in these conditions.

At low speed, it is a different story; engines tend to heat up when you face limited airflow, trapped airflow and slower moving coolant. These conditions exist in stop-and-go traffic, at car shows, rock crawling or off-road or in any vehicle under a load. FlowKooler has focused on increasing the flow rates at lower rpms to resolve low speed overheating. At idle our pumps pump more than twice other pumps and we outflow “performance” pumps by 20%. FlowKooler pumps take the coolant out of the engine and put it in the heat exchanger or radiator to get it out of your system and keep you cool.

2. Higher Block Pressure Prevents a Vapor Barrier

When you send a higher volume of fluid through a fixed diameter e.g. water jacket, thermostat housing, thin tube aluminum radiator etc and the cooling system passage itself becomes restrictive pressure builds in the block. That block pressure helps squeeze air out of the system that will impede your heat exchange.

3. Higher Block Pressure Eliminates Hot Spots and Steam Pockets

Engine blocks machined with limited or no cooling jacket can result in steam pockets and hot spots. Boring is great for getting more power out of your engine but notorious for contributing to overheating. At idle the creation of a hot spot at the top of the cylinder may be enough to cause pre-ignition. In the extreme, steam pockets can lead to detonation (hot spots in the cylinder wall) and detonation leads to broken parts. At high rpm the coolant moves through the block fast enough to prevent any steam pockets from forming. FlowKooler pumps flow more coolant through the system at low speed and simultaneously raise engine block pressure 22%. This helps prevent their formation of a steam pockets and suppress es engine hot spots caused by them.

4. Higher Block Pressure Prevents Early Cavitation

Cavitation is the formation of vapor bubbles in a flowing liquid where the pressure of the liquid falls below its vapor pressure. When the vapor bubble that forms rapidly collapses it produces a destructive shock wave that damages the interior wall of the engine block and other components, causes vibrations and noise and results in a loss of flow efficiency. FlowKooler impellers are designed to tighten clearances to reduce "slop" in the casting chamber and build that system pressure. This helps to prevent the onset of cavitation.

5. Higher Flow Rate Stops the Knock

Knock, detonation or ping…call it what you want - it is a problem. Ping heard when the engine is shut off may be the result of pre-ignition. Pre-ignition results from the air/fuel mixture igniting in the cylinder before the spark plug fires from an ignition source other than the spark. Hot spots can damage to the point they actual burn holes right through the top of pistons. Causes include:

  • Carbon deposits form a heat barrier
  • An overheated spark plug
  • A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston
  • A sharp edges on valves
  • A lean fuel mixture
  • Low coolant level
  • Slipping fan clutch
  • Failed electric cooling fan
Flowkooler hi flow pumps help reduce engine temperatures and stop the after run or pinging characteristic of a pre-ignition condition. Knock can also occur when the combustion of in the cylinder starts off correctly with spark plug ignition but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front ignition. It will cause the peak of the combustion process to occur outside of the optimum moment and results in a characteristic metallic "pinging" sound. The other consequence is an increases in cylinder pressure which can be harmless or destructive to rings piston or bearings.

6. Better Design Helps Gain Horsepower

A poorly designed water pump casting and impeller can result in wasted horsepower. FlowKooler pumps are designed to move water more efficiently from the radiator to the block to keep you cool. Some refer to the improvement in flow efficiency as a gain in horsepower, other call it a conservation of horsepower. Whatever you call it, FlowKooler pumps are 32% more efficient than OEMs which means less horsepower is used to turn them.



n-GRUMPY-OLD-MEN-628x314_large.jpg



Hold on...doesn't the coolant have to have more time in the radiator to cool?
No. But a lot of people still think so. We have come up with some explanations for the Doubting Thomas.

Debunking the I Can Have It Both Ways Theory

The water has to have time to cool argument is most common one we hear. In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer. Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat. Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink. The engine is still generating heat the whole time so why keep the coolant there any longer than you have to.

Debunking The Conscientious Electron Theory

We hear that the coolant has to stay in the system longer to cool but what is heat transfer really but conduction, convection and radiation of electrons. The fluid in your system transfers those electrons based principally on the source-sink differential and the exchange material's transfer rate. An electron moves at varying speeds - Bohr's model has it moving at 2 million meter/second. But let's just agree it is fast (really really fast). Far faster than the flow rate of the water pump. Your engine coolant's electrons do not know (or care) how fast you send then through the system - they just knows that the source is hotter than the sink and off they go.

Debunking Grandpa's Flathead Washer Theory

"But wait a minute, I know Grandpa' used to put washers in his flathead to slow the flow and cool his engine." We know people did this too. They still do it but the cooling benefit is not from the slower flow but the pressure that builds from the restriction. Consider that Grandpa had two flathead water pumps sending twice the volume through the same size radiator core. In a non pressure system he likely lost fluid on the track or road. We have use pressure caps since the late thirties to remedy this.

Ask Grandpa and he might tell you his overheating woes came when he tore up the track at high speed. The overheating could be the result of cavitation in his pump due to the higher rpm.

Restricting his flow with a washer build up his pump pressure and the pressure in the block helped reduce the onset of hot spots on his cylinder walls and formation of steam pockets. So Grandpa was on to something but just not for the reason most people think. This restrictions makes sense when your rpm is excessive but it rarely makes sense normal driving conditions.

If you doubt this thinking then try this simple Ask Dr. Science experiment where you restrict the pump on the suction side; just clamp off the lower hose while you watch your temp gauge. Hopefully, you will debunk Grandpa's theory yourself before you experience vapor lock.

Restriction is not all bad if it serves to prevent cavitation. Cavitation occurs when a pump turns so fast that you generate lower pressure and air bubbles or vapor forms. These bubbles eventually implode and damage the engine block wall and impeller. Rapidly spinning the impeller can literally rip the air from water but may not actually move the fluid, it's tantamount to turning an eggbeater in a paint bucket. Restricting the fluid flow to raise system pressure in the block may help prevent cavitation at higher RPM but is it necessary for most vehicles?

No. Most vehicles do not need to restrict flow because they do not reach or sustain high RPM. Additionally, thin aluminum radiators already restrict by design e.g. fewer rows of tubes. Restrict it further and you may as well hose clamp the lower radiator hose and we know how that works out. When you face Grandpa on the track you may want your washers, otherwise, keep them in the toolkit.

Simply put, you have a far better chance of keeping your cool with a greater flow rate through your heat exchanger than gathering heat in your engine block.
 
Be aware that greater number of fins generally equates to faster coolant flow which actually does not always equal better cooling. The 6 fin pump setup works well because it gives the coolant more time in the radiator so heat can be drawn out. If you look at stock big block pumps specified by Chrysler that is why the big block pumps had the lower fin count.
I don't know what changed over the years, but the 1970 shop manual shows both 6 or 8 fins for 383 and 440. Standard was an 8 fin 4.38 inch pump while air conditioned cars got the 6 fin 3.5 inch pump. However there was also a pulley change involved so the larger 8 fin spun at 95% crank speed while the smaller 6 fin was sped up to 140% crankshaft speed. It's in section 7-12 of the manual.
 
Home / Commons Questions about Hi Flow Pumps
COMMONS QUESTIONS ABOUT HI FLOW PUMPS
Why Make a Hi Flow Water Pump?
FlowKooler introduced the first hi flow pumps to the aftermarket and continues to improve impeller design to this day. Increased flow helps cool a hot engine by reducing the cycle time between the heat source and the heat sink. This increase exposure creates more opportunities to shed heat and drop the engine temperature. FlowKooler’s impellers are precision machined from billet aluminum and designed to increase flow of the coolant. Impellers feature larger diameters, tighter vane-to-casting clearances, shrouding, porting and have incremental vanes.

These design elements are incorporated into the impeller for one purpose; to generate more flow to cool hot engines. Each impeller is protected from corrosion with a Military grade Type II Class II anodized surface coating to protect against corrosion and the damages of electrolysis.

Engines at idle, engine cruising at slow speeds or engines stuck in stop-and-go conditions have something in common; lower coolant flow rate and reduced air circulation through the radiator. Flowkooler pumps increase the flow and create highway-speed flow rates. The pumps continue to deliver higher flow all along the rpm curve and when system throughput is maximized, FlowKooler pumps build block pressure. Increasing the block pressure by as much as 22% helps reduces hot spots on cylinder walls, prevents the formation of steam pockets in the engine block and prevents the cavitation of the impeller.

FlowKooler hi flow water pumps’ incremental vanes carve up the workload and conserve as much as 2.2% horsepower.

Because FlowKooler pumps reduce engine temperatures as much as 30 degrees, they are frequently recommended by aluminum radiator manufacturers as a necessary tool of cooling for hot engines with thin radiator cores and reduced capacity.

Who uses a Hi Flow Water Pump?
A lot of people. Whether it is in stop and go traffic, a slow moving parade, in line at a car show, off road on the trails or hauling a heavy load up a grade, cars and trucks experience reduced airflow through the radiator due to slower speeds. The lower rpm reduces the cycle time between engine and the heat exchanger (radiator). Designing pumps to flow more helps. FlowKooler has sold pumps to muscle car owners, street rodders, off road rock crawlers, people towing RVs and horse trailers, boat owners and even Propane powered trucks! We even get request for bespoke impellers for industrial applications like gensets and oil field pumps.

Isn't every water pump hi flow?
You would think so reading their web sites and catalog listings. The reality is any manufacturer can claim high flow rate and few make any effort to material change their product. If their brand is strong enough it just becomes accepted. The proof however lies inside the pump. Flip the pump around and take a look at the impeller. If you see the same stamped steel or the same casting in all of them then you have your answer. Its all coming from the same plant in China.

What are the benefits of a hi flow water pump?
1. Higher Flow Rates Lower Engine Temperature

Most engines keep cool at highway speed. It makes sense; the engine is turning the water pump rapidly and sending coolant through the radiator. The radiator has good airflow at highway speed and hot air is being sucked out of the engine compartment. Of course engines stay cooler in these conditions.

At low speed, it is a different story; engines tend to heat up when you face limited airflow, trapped airflow and slower moving coolant. These conditions exist in stop-and-go traffic, at car shows, rock crawling or off-road or in any vehicle under a load. FlowKooler has focused on increasing the flow rates at lower rpms to resolve low speed overheating. At idle our pumps pump more than twice other pumps and we outflow “performance” pumps by 20%. FlowKooler pumps take the coolant out of the engine and put it in the heat exchanger or radiator to get it out of your system and keep you cool.

2. Higher Block Pressure Prevents a Vapor Barrier

When you send a higher volume of fluid through a fixed diameter e.g. water jacket, thermostat housing, thin tube aluminum radiator etc and the cooling system passage itself becomes restrictive pressure builds in the block. That block pressure helps squeeze air out of the system that will impede your heat exchange.

3. Higher Block Pressure Eliminates Hot Spots and Steam Pockets

Engine blocks machined with limited or no cooling jacket can result in steam pockets and hot spots. Boring is great for getting more power out of your engine but notorious for contributing to overheating. At idle the creation of a hot spot at the top of the cylinder may be enough to cause pre-ignition. In the extreme, steam pockets can lead to detonation (hot spots in the cylinder wall) and detonation leads to broken parts. At high rpm the coolant moves through the block fast enough to prevent any steam pockets from forming. FlowKooler pumps flow more coolant through the system at low speed and simultaneously raise engine block pressure 22%. This helps prevent their formation of a steam pockets and suppress es engine hot spots caused by them.

4. Higher Block Pressure Prevents Early Cavitation

Cavitation is the formation of vapor bubbles in a flowing liquid where the pressure of the liquid falls below its vapor pressure. When the vapor bubble that forms rapidly collapses it produces a destructive shock wave that damages the interior wall of the engine block and other components, causes vibrations and noise and results in a loss of flow efficiency. FlowKooler impellers are designed to tighten clearances to reduce "slop" in the casting chamber and build that system pressure. This helps to prevent the onset of cavitation.

5. Higher Flow Rate Stops the Knock

Knock, detonation or ping…call it what you want - it is a problem. Ping heard when the engine is shut off may be the result of pre-ignition. Pre-ignition results from the air/fuel mixture igniting in the cylinder before the spark plug fires from an ignition source other than the spark. Hot spots can damage to the point they actual burn holes right through the top of pistons. Causes include:

  • Carbon deposits form a heat barrier
  • An overheated spark plug
  • A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston
  • A sharp edges on valves
  • A lean fuel mixture
  • Low coolant level
  • Slipping fan clutch
  • Failed electric cooling fan
Flowkooler hi flow pumps help reduce engine temperatures and stop the after run or pinging characteristic of a pre-ignition condition. Knock can also occur when the combustion of in the cylinder starts off correctly with spark plug ignition but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front ignition. It will cause the peak of the combustion process to occur outside of the optimum moment and results in a characteristic metallic "pinging" sound. The other consequence is an increases in cylinder pressure which can be harmless or destructive to rings piston or bearings.

6. Better Design Helps Gain Horsepower

A poorly designed water pump casting and impeller can result in wasted horsepower. FlowKooler pumps are designed to move water more efficiently from the radiator to the block to keep you cool. Some refer to the improvement in flow efficiency as a gain in horsepower, other call it a conservation of horsepower. Whatever you call it, FlowKooler pumps are 32% more efficient than OEMs which means less horsepower is used to turn them.



n-GRUMPY-OLD-MEN-628x314_large.jpg



Hold on...doesn't the coolant have to have more time in the radiator to cool?
No. But a lot of people still think so. We have come up with some explanations for the Doubting Thomas.

Debunking the I Can Have It Both Ways Theory

The water has to have time to cool argument is most common one we hear. In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer. Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat. Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink. The engine is still generating heat the whole time so why keep the coolant there any longer than you have to.

Debunking The Conscientious Electron Theory

We hear that the coolant has to stay in the system longer to cool but what is heat transfer really but conduction, convection and radiation of electrons. The fluid in your system transfers those electrons based principally on the source-sink differential and the exchange material's transfer rate. An electron moves at varying speeds - Bohr's model has it moving at 2 million meter/second. But let's just agree it is fast (really really fast). Far faster than the flow rate of the water pump. Your engine coolant's electrons do not know (or care) how fast you send then through the system - they just knows that the source is hotter than the sink and off they go.

Debunking Grandpa's Flathead Washer Theory

"But wait a minute, I know Grandpa' used to put washers in his flathead to slow the flow and cool his engine." We know people did this too. They still do it but the cooling benefit is not from the slower flow but the pressure that builds from the restriction. Consider that Grandpa had two flathead water pumps sending twice the volume through the same size radiator core. In a non pressure system he likely lost fluid on the track or road. We have use pressure caps since the late thirties to remedy this.

Ask Grandpa and he might tell you his overheating woes came when he tore up the track at high speed. The overheating could be the result of cavitation in his pump due to the higher rpm.

Restricting his flow with a washer build up his pump pressure and the pressure in the block helped reduce the onset of hot spots on his cylinder walls and formation of steam pockets. So Grandpa was on to something but just not for the reason most people think. This restrictions makes sense when your rpm is excessive but it rarely makes sense normal driving conditions.

If you doubt this thinking then try this simple Ask Dr. Science experiment where you restrict the pump on the suction side; just clamp off the lower hose while you watch your temp gauge. Hopefully, you will debunk Grandpa's theory yourself before you experience vapor lock.

Restriction is not all bad if it serves to prevent cavitation. Cavitation occurs when a pump turns so fast that you generate lower pressure and air bubbles or vapor forms. These bubbles eventually implode and damage the engine block wall and impeller. Rapidly spinning the impeller can literally rip the air from water but may not actually move the fluid, it's tantamount to turning an eggbeater in a paint bucket. Restricting the fluid flow to raise system pressure in the block may help prevent cavitation at higher RPM but is it necessary for most vehicles?

No. Most vehicles do not need to restrict flow because they do not reach or sustain high RPM. Additionally, thin aluminum radiators already restrict by design e.g. fewer rows of tubes. Restrict it further and you may as well hose clamp the lower radiator hose and we know how that works out. When you face Grandpa on the track you may want your washers, otherwise, keep them in the toolkit.

Simply put, you have a far better chance of keeping your cool with a greater flow rate through your heat exchanger than gathering heat in your engine block.
EXCELLENT RESPONSE AND EXPLANATION to the fundamental aspects of heat transfer characteristics to those who may not know about thermodynamics. Its too bad that the different water pump manufacturers and suppliers don t furnish pump capabilities curves, which show the gallons/minute capacities (horizontal axis) and foot head (pressure capabilities) on the vertical axis with the various impeller sizes shown to define how the pump operates. Specific Gravity of the coolant can also influence the pump's performance.
BOB RENTON
 
Pulley size has a lot to do with, a bigger pulley slows the water down, smaller speeds it up.

The reference to 1970 is spot on. My dads 70’ Challenger RT went from a 383 (factory ac car) to a 505. Never gets hot, and we used the all the factory pulley set up.
 
“Specific Gravity of the coolant can also influence the pump's performance.”

Do you have anything on that?


EXCELLENT RESPONSE AND EXPLANATION to the fundamental aspects of heat transfer characteristics to those who may not know about thermodynamics. Its too bad that the different water pump manufacturers and suppliers don t furnish pump capabilities curves, which show the gallons/minute capacities (horizontal axis) and foot head (pressure capabilities) on the vertical axis with the various impeller sizes shown to define how the pump operates. Specific Gravity of the coolant can also influence the pump's performance.
BOB RENTON
 
“Specific Gravity of the coolant can also influence the pump's performance.”

Do you have anything on that?

The specific gravity of the pumpage can influence the horsepower required to move the liquid, albeit a mix f glycol and watet or 100% propylene glycol or just water. As well as pump's impeller design and its clearance in the housing. FYI.....some GENERAL info from Crane Engineering
If you are new to pumps and fluid processing, reading a pump curve can be a daunting, confusing task. Then, just when you think you understand curves, you realize that different types of pumps (centrifugal, positive displacement, air operated diaphragm...) have different types of curves as well. In this post, we'll break down the anatomy of a centrifugal pump curve.
A centrifugal pump imparts energy on a liquid, and based on the system it is installed on, has flow and head characteristics. The amount of pressure the pump is required to overcome dictates where the performance point will be on the curve and how much flow is produced. As pressure increases, the flow decreases moving your performance point to the left of the curve. As pressure decreases, the performance point runs out to the right of the curve and flow increases. Below are descriptions of basic parts of a performance curve with examples as they relate to the performance curve provided below.

Centrifugal_Pump_Curve_1-3.jpg


  1. TITLE BOX
    The title box provides information about the pump model, size, speed, and other identifying criteria specific to the pump. If checking the performance of an existing pump, confirm that you are matching the pump to the associated curve.
  2. FLOW
    To start your selection, identify the amount of flow you require from the pump. For this example, we have chosen 300 gpm. Flow is indicated across the bottom horizontal axis of the curve.
  3. HEAD
    You will also need to know the total head the pump is required to overcome at the specified flow. For this example, we will use 100 ft. Head is indicated in increments along the vertical axis. Follow 100ft across the curve intersects your flow line which indicates your performance point.
  4. IMPELLER TRIM
    To accommodate different performance points, centrifugal pumps have the capability of trimming impellers. By reducing impeller size, the pump can be limited to your specific performance requirement. The impeller diameters are listed on the left side of the curve and the performance for each trim is shown across as a bold line. Our selection is between 10” and 11” so a trim of 10.5” is appropriate.
    CLICK HERE TO SUBSCRIBE TO OUR BLOG!
    Centrifugal pumps can also be limited by variable speed, which is the ideal means of control when several performance points are required by a single pump and not achieved by a single trim without system modification. Variable speed curves will be covered in a later post.


    Centrifugal_Pump_Curve_5-8.jpg


  5. HORSEPOWER
    Now that you have your performance point, we can determine the amount of horsepower required. Horsepower is indicated across the curve as a dotted line in this case at a downward angle. Our performance point is between the 10hp and 15 hp lines, we estimate this selection to require 12 hp.
  6. NPSHR
    Net positive suction head required is important for proper pump operation. This is the minimum amount of pressure on the suction side of the pump to overcome pump entrance losses. If sufficient NPSH is not met the pump will cavitate which will affect performance and pump life.
  7. EFFICIENCY
    When selecting the best pump for an application, efficiency many times is an important factor. The higher the efficiency, the less energy required to operate for a specific performance point.
  8. MINIMUM FLOW
    A centrifugal pump requires a minimum amount flow to be moving through the pump to dissipate heat created. On the left side of the curve, minimum flow is indicated by a vertical bold line; operation to the left of this line is not recommended and can significantly decrease the life of the pump.
Knowing how to read a centrifugal pump curve is essential to the health of your system. Running too far out on the curve, or too far back, can cause damage to the pump, excessive energy consumption, and overall poor performance.
Jordan, an Application Engineer at Crane Engineering, explains how to read a centrifugal pump curve in the video below. See for yourself!


Perhaps the above will provide the information you seek. If not there is additional info on Google or consult the Goulds Pump Manual, a very definitive source for information.
BOB RENTON
 
Holy ****, how many people are gonna want a graph of a particular water pump for the engine and decide to purchase based on said graph? Nobody.....ever!

This has gotten out of control. But a reputable pump, have the correct sized pulley and drive the piss out of it.
 
Holy ****, how many people are gonna want a graph of a particular water pump for the engine and decide to purchase based on said graph? Nobody.....ever!

This has gotten out of control. But a reputable pump, have the correct sized pulley and drive the piss out of it.
Wrong.....if you want to do it correctly, this is the info you need.....or....just take a "buddy's" guess to what you want, and then wonder why it doesn't provide what you expect it to do. Define reputable pump and how do you determine what the "correct size" drive sheave is and how much does "drive the piss out of it" entail? Just curious....
But, most centrifugal pump curves are based on a fixed impeller rpm and different impeller diameters/configurations and automotive applications are based on variable impeller RPM's and fixed impeller sizes or configurations, which will require a fixed point of operation that satisfies the worst conditions to see if your expectations have been met. Sometimes a challenging conundrum....
BOB RENTON
 
I get it, you like to have scientific information on every part that a car has. There are numerous water pumps that do an excellent job. But don’t forget, pulley size, radiator size/location/fin count/tube size, hose size, fan cfm, belt(serpentine/v belt, ac condenser, trans cooler etc, all play a part in the cooling effectiveness.

So, don’t tell me I’m wrong. You go way above what is actually needed, graph curves, flow charts, tensile strength, etc., nothing wrong with that. But when ya need only a hammer, ya don’t get a wrecking ball.
 
@RJRENTON, @5.7 hemi

Holy ****, how many people are gonna want a graph of a particular water pump for the engine and decide to purchase based on said graph? Nobody.....ever!

This has gotten out of control. But a reputable pump, have the correct sized pulley and drive the piss out of it.

RJ, thanks for the information. That was as usual, Ridiculously (over, but glad as well) informative!

Well, I think your both 100% correct. How is this possible?

Depends on your position and need for a pump.
If I was a racer, this graph is a HUGE! Home run.
If your just looking to cool your car, this graph is just a helpful thing.
If you never had a cooling problem, this graph is equal to ancient Chinese hieroglyphics that even historians can’t understand.

As of right now, I’m not having cooling issues. I did have to upgrade a few components when I first out my big block Duster together. In addition, a diet program was in order. I purchased a new extra wide aluminum radiator, water pump and pump housing. I had to use an electric fan which my son in law gave me this unknown unit which works just fine. So between the three of these things, there is no problem.
 
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