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Damaged Frame Rail

RockyPat

RockyPat

Well-Known Member
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Hello everyone,

My Charger has a damaged frame rail.

I need to take it to a frame shop soon.

One is a picture of the damaged rail and the other is the good rail.
E1C80165-8D78-4ECE-9BE7-C30DF64F5B2A.jpeg
3EDF616D-2D2D-4A47-9C6C-8278C6A888D2.jpeg


How bad do you guys think this is?

I am no expert myself, but maybe some of you have dealt with damaged frame rails before.

I also have thought about trying to find a frame rail from a different car.
Are the different frame rail or the frame shop bad ideas?

Thanks!
 
That looks like physical damage and rust from what I can see. You'll have to determine how strong it is.
The only bad frame rail I ever dealt with was decayed from the top, due to years of battery acid leaking.
I never noticed it when I bought the car, (E body). At some point, somebody disguised it with body filler and spraying undercoating (plus dirt and dust) on both rails. Eventually, the tire wear and alignment that wouldn't adjust properly, since the rail was flexing, that's how we found it.
Live and learn. When I'm looking at a potential car, I use a magnet and screw driver to prod those trouble frame areas.
I have no pics, it was years ago and 11gran, after the "while I'm at it" mentality took over. I bought the frame piece and a shop did most of the work.
 
Had similar, used Saf T caps. Looks like they are being sold through Classic Industries now. It is a sleeve that fits around the bottom and side of the existing rail and is welded into place.
 
Belle66 said:
Had similar, used Saf T caps. Looks like they are being sold through Classic Industries now. It is a sleeve that fits around the bottom and side of the existing rail and is welded into place.
Click to expand...

Did the cap fix the problem permanently? I like the cap idea for its ease of installation, but I am worried that it would not actually fix the frame rail damage. If the cap keeps everything straight, then it would be great! Thanks for the reply.
 
Potts said:
That looks like physical damage and rust from what I can see. You'll have to determine how strong it is.
The only bad frame rail I ever dealt with was decayed from the top, due to years of battery acid leaking.
I never noticed it when I bought the car, (E body). At some point, somebody disguised it with body filler and spraying undercoating (plus dirt and dust) on both rails. Eventually, the tire wear and alignment that wouldn't adjust properly, since the rail was flexing, that's how we found it.
Live and learn. When I'm looking at a potential car, I use a magnet and screw driver to prod those trouble frame areas.
I have no pics, it was years ago and 11gran, after the "while I'm at it" mentality took over. I bought the frame piece and a shop did most of the work.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight. A magnet is a good tool to bring when looking at a car to purchase. I am looking to get this fixed as cheaply as possible. Hopefully! Always something with these old cars... Lol
 
Just me, but I would never use one of those Saf T Caps. All you are doing is covering up the rust. It is still there and will continue to rot away. Do it right the first time and be done....
 
I did this…

Since only the end of my crossmember was soft, I bought this end cap from Derrick Fettig, a well known seller of western steel. It was $50. Since my front to back subframe and the rest of the crossmember was good, I cut the bad end off, made gussets for inside the frame, cleaned everything very well and welded in the new piece. I also gusseted the rocker behind where it’s welded.

AC50881D-2644-42B8-9009-EBDAC0AF65D3.jpeg 796CF575-8106-4D60-9A5C-40F4D67566D7.jpeg 156C052B-91C0-4C3B-BA5C-9F4A1FA7515F.jpeg 879EA27E-2AC9-4DD8-A296-EBA6C10A1A6E.jpeg
 
hunt2elk said:
Just me, but I would never use one of those Saf T Caps. All you are doing is covering up the rust. It is still there and will continue to rot away. Do it right the first time and be done....
Click to expand...

I understand what you are saying. I will keep this in mind. Thanks
 
cosgig said:
I did this…

Since only the end of my crossmember was soft, I bought this end cap from Derrick Fettig, a well known seller of western steel. It was $50. Since my front to back subframe and the rest of the crossmember was good, I cut the bad end off, made gussets for inside the frame, cleaned everything very well and welded in the new piece. I also gusseted the rocker behind where it’s welded.

View attachment 1154747 View attachment 1154748 View attachment 1154749 View attachment 1154750
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting your method and pictures. Your post is very helpful. Looks good!
 
RockyPat said:
Did the cap fix the problem permanently? I like the cap idea for its ease of installation, but I am worried that it would not actually fix the frame rail damage. If the cap keeps everything straight, then it would be great! Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...
I cut out the rusted metal, treated the remaining with POR-15, and used weld thru primer at weld locations. The cap fits over the existing rail. I took measures to make sure the original rail did not move while doing this work. It fixes the damage by replacing the damaged metal with fresh steel in the form of a sleeve. i agree with the other comments, those methods were not an option at that time.

Joel
 
Belle66 said:
I cut out the rusted metal, treated the remaining with POR-15, and used weld thru primer at weld locations. The cap fits over the existing rail. I took measures to make sure the original rail did not move while doing this work. It fixes the damage by replacing the damaged metal with fresh steel in the form of a sleeve. i agree with the other comments, those methods were not an option at that time.

Joel
Click to expand...

Thanks for letting me know how you installed the cap. The installation process does not seem to be too difficult. This could be a good way to fix my frame issue. I appreciate it!
 
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