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383 intake gasket

__Larsson____

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So i have a question about the gaskets for the intake on my 383, so i have seen some use only the valleypan and some RTV and some use some kind of "paper" gasket with the valleypan.

What is the way to go with a original intake?

packningar.jpg
 
So i have a question about the gaskets for the intake on my 383, so i have seen some use only the valleypan and some RTV and some use some kind of "paper" gasket with the valleypan.

What is the way to go with a original intake?

View attachment 1641991
The original intakes had the pan and no port side gaskets. I used to spray them with Permatex sealer. The red/maroon colored stuff. I don't remember sealing the ends either and never had leaks. You sure could use the gaskets on each side of the metal with a smear of black silicone on both ends and the corners. Tighten everything down and let the silicone set up overnight.
 
Just put it together the way it's supposed to be. Steel pan.
 
So i have a question about the gaskets for the intake on my 383, so i have seen some use only the valleypan and some RTV and some use some kind of "paper" gasket with the valleypan.

What is the way to go with a original intake?

View attachment 1641991
Is the block and heads original and never been cut? If the block and heads have been milled, you might not be able to put it together like the factory did it....
 
The original intakes had the pan and no port side gaskets. I used to spray them with Permatex sealer. The red/maroon colored stuff. I don't remember sealing the ends either and never had leaks. You sure could use the gaskets on each side of the metal with a smear of black silicone on both ends and the corners. Tighten everything down and let the silicone set up overnight Yeah i was thinking of using Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket NO 3 but dont now if it goes well togehter with the pan
 
Not been cut, all original
I would still lay the intake on the engine without a gasket (everything clean of course) and check to make sure things align up well. If it looks really close, you should be able to use the steel shim gasket and yes, use a dab of sealer in the corners and I also like to use a bit on the front and back walls....some call them China walls but I don't. :) And make sure your tie downs are straight/flat....
 
With RTV or no?
Yes, but you don't need to pump it out of a caulking gun like you're building a Flex-Seal boat. Just a very thin smear with your finger.
Of course the ends and corners.. but I also do a smear in the sealing beads of the gasket. Ultra black.
 
Not been cut, all original
Iron heads and intake with no milling or decking, the tin gasket by itself will work fine. Adding the paper gaskets with your very stock setup may well cause some alignment issues.

....some call them China walls but I don't.
What do you call them then, sugar walls?
(80s Sheena Easton/Prince female anatomy reference, sorry haahaah)
:lol:
 
I use permatex ultra Grey and pan only. Works nicely and you don't have to goop the rtv on.
 
Did I misunderstand, that these "paper" gaskets were used with milled heads? Mine were allegedly milled -20. Yes, I know the metal one is needed. My intake didn't sit against the heads well, looks like a very small gap between the two assemblies.
 
If you follow Nick's Garage he says you must use the paper gaskets with an aluminum intake. The torque spec for the aluminum intake is lower than the iron and the paper gaskets are required.

I second the Indian Head shellac to glue the gaskets.
 
If you follow Nick's Garage he says you must use the paper gaskets with an aluminum intake. The torque spec for the aluminum intake is lower than the iron and the paper gaskets are required.

I second the Indian Head shellac to glue the gaskets.
Oh, thats good to know if i ever change to a aluminium.
 
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