Manifold flapper restore or nah?
- Thread starter o1gnah
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bigbluedodge
Well-Known Member
?
o1gnah
Well-Known Member
You don’t want an operable heat riser. It will just rot out your right side exhaust pipe faster. I don’t see much point in making it operable and then wiring it open so that it isn’t functioning but if trying to keep everything original and functional then that’s an option. Neither of my cars have their heat risers anymore. They’ve been fixed.
I choose to keep my heatriser working. Not that the weather is cold enough here that it's absolutely necessary, but my choke is functional and works correctly. I only have one car that eats mufflers and it's not restricted to the right side although that one usually goes first. Most of my cars have muffler systems that have been in place for a long time and are the aluminitized hemi style mufflers. One example is my Superbird with the same muffler system for 25 years and the heatriser was restored along with the car. I also don't block off the heat crossover when rebuilding the engines.
Back about 1968, the "flapper" froze in the closed position on my 1965 Plymouth 318 poly. Caused the right head to crack. Junkyards had plenty back then. Torched the flap out, left the shaft.
Recently purchased a '63 with a poly. Low compression center two cylinders right side. You guessed it. Frozen flapper. Burned the flap out as in 1968. Bought a pair of 1966 heads. Prices sure have gonr up. Still need to get both heads a simple valve job after checking for cracks. Prices on machine shop work have skyrocketed too.
In a nutshell; get rid of it.
Recently purchased a '63 with a poly. Low compression center two cylinders right side. You guessed it. Frozen flapper. Burned the flap out as in 1968. Bought a pair of 1966 heads. Prices sure have gonr up. Still need to get both heads a simple valve job after checking for cracks. Prices on machine shop work have skyrocketed too.
In a nutshell; get rid of it.
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Here's another vote for sayonara.
sr71mopar
Well-Known Member
I get rid of them. Knock it all the way through with a drift and a BFH. If the bushing stays in tap it for 1/8 pipe. If the bushing comes out, tap it for 1/4 pipe. I have had them hang up too many times to consider leaving them in.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I think the 318 is a 225hp engine that the clever guys got to make 175hp or less by getting it to start and run in Canadian winters, and try and save on fuel. One of tne first things I did was wyre the flapper valve open. Then when I had the manifolds off, I got rid of tne flapper valve completely, and plugged the holes by tapping them, and inserting bolts. Different sizes. Also I could not figure how the carb, and tne engine would run better, by feeding warm air into the system.
Just my thoughts, others may differ. I now have a four barrel carb with a manual choke, plus a cam and lifters. Another
thing scared me about the stock motor, was the fibre gear on the cam. I had visions of that failing in a remote area. It had happened in the past with a side valve Ford.
Just my thoughts, others may differ. I now have a four barrel carb with a manual choke, plus a cam and lifters. Another
thing scared me about the stock motor, was the fibre gear on the cam. I had visions of that failing in a remote area. It had happened in the past with a side valve Ford.
o1gnah
Well-Known Member
How’s the four barrel with cam and lifters change the performance?
KWolfcale
Member
Wish I had seen this post and replies about month ago. While the heads were being rebuilt on my 63 Poly I spent several hours rebuilding that manifold heat control valve to work as described in service manual including finding a NOS thermostatic control spring and making some other parts I couldn't find. Living in NE Wisconsin I don't drive my Sport Fury in the winter. Now I think I will remove or disable the damn thing. Kind a like pissing in the wind!!
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
Sweet. Running more like it is supposed to. I sent a message to Edelbrock, told them what I have, a camper van, how much it weighed, 6600, and what I wanted, more power. They sent me a list of things I needed, with part numbers. I bought all the bits, and installed them. Did that this past winter. We leave again next week for a longer trip. Tests so far have been good. I also installed a shift kit. I needed to be able to shift to first manually, and have it stay there. I think getting the engine out of a car or truck, should be easier than my van.
My engine has about 65,000 miles on it, and good oil pressure and compression. So I did not touch the pistons or bottom end. Just cleaned the oil pump. Last week I put in adjustable push rods. The 1405 Edelbrock carb is silky smooth.
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