Manifold flapper restore or nah?
- Thread starter o1gnah
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bigbluedodge
Well-Known Member
?
o1gnah
Well-Known Member
You don’t want an operable heat riser. It will just rot out your right side exhaust pipe faster. I don’t see much point in making it operable and then wiring it open so that it isn’t functioning but if trying to keep everything original and functional then that’s an option. Neither of my cars have their heat risers anymore. They’ve been fixed.
Jerry Hall
Well-Known Member
I choose to keep my heatriser working. Not that the weather is cold enough here that it's absolutely necessary, but my choke is functional and works correctly. I only have one car that eats mufflers and it's not restricted to the right side although that one usually goes first. Most of my cars have muffler systems that have been in place for a long time and are the aluminitized hemi style mufflers. One example is my Superbird with the same muffler system for 25 years and the heatriser was restored along with the car. I also don't block off the heat crossover when rebuilding the engines.
Back about 1968, the "flapper" froze in the closed position on my 1965 Plymouth 318 poly. Caused the right head to crack. Junkyards had plenty back then. Torched the flap out, left the shaft.
Recently purchased a '63 with a poly. Low compression center two cylinders right side. You guessed it. Frozen flapper. Burned the flap out as in 1968. Bought a pair of 1966 heads. Prices sure have gonr up. Still need to get both heads a simple valve job after checking for cracks. Prices on machine shop work have skyrocketed too.
In a nutshell; get rid of it.
Recently purchased a '63 with a poly. Low compression center two cylinders right side. You guessed it. Frozen flapper. Burned the flap out as in 1968. Bought a pair of 1966 heads. Prices sure have gonr up. Still need to get both heads a simple valve job after checking for cracks. Prices on machine shop work have skyrocketed too.
In a nutshell; get rid of it.
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Here's another vote for sayonara.
sr71mopar
Well-Known Member
I get rid of them. Knock it all the way through with a drift and a BFH. If the bushing stays in tap it for 1/8 pipe. If the bushing comes out, tap it for 1/4 pipe. I have had them hang up too many times to consider leaving them in.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I think the 318 is a 225hp engine that the clever guys got to make 175hp or less by getting it to start and run in Canadian winters, and try and save on fuel. One of tne first things I did was wyre the flapper valve open. Then when I had the manifolds off, I got rid of tne flapper valve completely, and plugged the holes by tapping them, and inserting bolts. Different sizes. Also I could not figure how the carb, and tne engine would run better, by feeding warm air into the system.
Just my thoughts, others may differ. I now have a four barrel carb with a manual choke, plus a cam and lifters. Another
thing scared me about the stock motor, was the fibre gear on the cam. I had visions of that failing in a remote area. It had happened in the past with a side valve Ford.
Just my thoughts, others may differ. I now have a four barrel carb with a manual choke, plus a cam and lifters. Another
thing scared me about the stock motor, was the fibre gear on the cam. I had visions of that failing in a remote area. It had happened in the past with a side valve Ford.
o1gnah
Well-Known Member
How’s the four barrel with cam and lifters change the performance?
KWolfcale
Member
Wish I had seen this post and replies about month ago. While the heads were being rebuilt on my 63 Poly I spent several hours rebuilding that manifold heat control valve to work as described in service manual including finding a NOS thermostatic control spring and making some other parts I couldn't find. Living in NE Wisconsin I don't drive my Sport Fury in the winter. Now I think I will remove or disable the damn thing. Kind a like pissing in the wind!!
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
Sweet. Running more like it is supposed to. I sent a message to Edelbrock, told them what I have, a camper van, how much it weighed, 6600, and what I wanted, more power. They sent me a list of things I needed, with part numbers. I bought all the bits, and installed them. Did that this past winter. We leave again next week for a longer trip. Tests so far have been good. I also installed a shift kit. I needed to be able to shift to first manually, and have it stay there. I think getting the engine out of a car or truck, should be easier than my van.
My engine has about 65,000 miles on it, and good oil pressure and compression. So I did not touch the pistons or bottom end. Just cleaned the oil pump. Last week I put in adjustable push rods. The 1405 Edelbrock carb is silky smooth.
o1gnah
Well-Known Member
So I’m running into an issue on deciding to keep or replace my stock 73 charger 5.2 318 exhaust manifold. Reason being after flipping through the interweb the manga flow manifold down pipe I’ve been able to find has two different part numbers 19343 &19304. I contacted magnaflow directly and was told they no longer have tech sheets for either and it could possibly be either and slight fab necessary. I could get a headman header or something else in the 3-400 price range and not have to worry about a downpipe as it’s a entire piece but fitment and starter motor I’ve heard nightmares. Please assist
I was planning on keeping my flapper - 70 Charger SE, 373 HP, numbers matching in full restoration mode right now. It seems to be functional; however, I like the idea of removing just the flapper so it looks original from the outside. Thanks for the idea
YY1
Well-Known Member
I've done as simple as removing the flapper and leaving the pivot pin, or installing a bolt.
Actually less restrictive than the pin and flapper.
In all my years dealing with Ohio winters, I never noticed a difference in cold weather starts.
Possibly longer warm up times, but who can tell when you start the car, turn the heat/defrost on, and then go back in the house for 30 minutes.
Actually less restrictive than the pin and flapper.
In all my years dealing with Ohio winters, I never noticed a difference in cold weather starts.
Possibly longer warm up times, but who can tell when you start the car, turn the heat/defrost on, and then go back in the house for 30 minutes.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I think in the case of my 318 in the van, the plan was to take a healthy engine, and make it a wimp, so it would start and stay running, and warm up quickly for the prairie winters.
None of that was of interest to me, so I removed anything that I thought would restrict performance. First I opened the flapper and wyred it open. Later I removed it and plugged the holes. Stock is of not much interest to me. Functional is.
None of that was of interest to me, so I removed anything that I thought would restrict performance. First I opened the flapper and wyred it open. Later I removed it and plugged the holes. Stock is of not much interest to me. Functional is.
They certainly did serve a purpose. In Rochester NY winters with mid 30's damp weather the carbeuretor's would ice up badly on LA engines. Even with a functioning heat riser and warm air door off the exhuast manifold I've seen them act like a choked pig.
As long as you don't plan on driving much in cold weather it should be fine removing the heat riser shaft and disc.
A carb with electric choke would be recommended if you cut it out.
Otherwise the choke stays on too long and that is a bad thing.
What vehicle does it belong to? looks like maybe a truck manifold with the center dump.
As long as you don't plan on driving much in cold weather it should be fine removing the heat riser shaft and disc.
A carb with electric choke would be recommended if you cut it out.
Otherwise the choke stays on too long and that is a bad thing.
What vehicle does it belong to? looks like maybe a truck manifold with the center dump.
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