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Just BEE careful 
1.4 Turbo Timing Belt Renegade Dart 500
- Thread starter Bee1971
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Bee1971
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Did it yesterday - Went better then expected - Hardest part was figuring out how the air cleaner assembly gets removed LOL
Did not buy the special locking tools - Used a snap ring pliers for the tensioner - Did not remove the vacuum pump
Went with a Mopar Timing Belt - Was marked Gates - Factory tensioner was a GMB marked on back of bearing
Take your time , mark the crankshaft , mark the camshaft gear , precise , YOUR MARKING BOTH GEARS TEETH WHERE YOU DECIDE BEFORE REMOVING THE OLD BELT , then I continued the marked after the factory belt was removed - It’s either aligned or one tooth off after installation , saw zero reasoning for loosening the camshaft gear
Do your rotations for alignment of teeth and marks
Do your rotations for tensioner and proper tension
Factory belt did not look so good after 105,000 Miles - Peace
Did not buy the special locking tools - Used a snap ring pliers for the tensioner - Did not remove the vacuum pump
Went with a Mopar Timing Belt - Was marked Gates - Factory tensioner was a GMB marked on back of bearing
Take your time , mark the crankshaft , mark the camshaft gear , precise , YOUR MARKING BOTH GEARS TEETH WHERE YOU DECIDE BEFORE REMOVING THE OLD BELT , then I continued the marked after the factory belt was removed - It’s either aligned or one tooth off after installation , saw zero reasoning for loosening the camshaft gear
Do your rotations for alignment of teeth and marks
Do your rotations for tensioner and proper tension
Factory belt did not look so good after 105,000 Miles - Peace
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71Beeper
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Bee1971 - did you replace the water pump too?
Wow - 105,000 miles that's 168,981 kilometers.
My 2013 dart only has 80,000kms which is 50,000 miles, I got a long way to go!
Wow - 105,000 miles that's 168,981 kilometers.
My 2013 dart only has 80,000kms which is 50,000 miles, I got a long way to go!
atikovi
New Member
The tool kit for this job is under $40 on Ebay or Amazon and it locks the cam and crank in position. Makes the job less stressful and no need to mark anything. And changing the water pump just adds a few minutes.
YY1
Well-Known Member
I finally got mine done at 113,000.
Followed most of the pdf @Bee1971 provided.
I did not remove the vacuum pump gasket, and it appears to have resealed.
I did use the $35 locking tool kit.
I also did not replace the water pump, as I don't like to tempt fate like that.
...and I did not loosen the cam pulley, although I do understand why that is part of the procedure and kind of wish I had done it.
I'm now at 115,500 and so far all is well.
Be advised you do need an "external torx" socket for the motor mounts.
That caused a one day delay for me.
Harbor freight has a nice deep set, Auto Zone has a cheaper, smaller, lesser quality short set.
Followed most of the pdf @Bee1971 provided.
I did not remove the vacuum pump gasket, and it appears to have resealed.
I did use the $35 locking tool kit.
I also did not replace the water pump, as I don't like to tempt fate like that.
...and I did not loosen the cam pulley, although I do understand why that is part of the procedure and kind of wish I had done it.
I'm now at 115,500 and so far all is well.
Be advised you do need an "external torx" socket for the motor mounts.
That caused a one day delay for me.
Harbor freight has a nice deep set, Auto Zone has a cheaper, smaller, lesser quality short set.
khryslerkid
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The overhead cam 4.7 dodge V8 is kind of the same thing but it's chains. The cams want to turn off of where they belong without the chains being on the sprockets. They make a tool set to hold them in position or like most, use vice grips. What a set up!
Make sure you follow the same procedure when you have to replace the WP in about a month!! You ALWAYS need to replace the WP when the TB runs it...
You can also pop a few offending rockers out.
YY1
Well-Known Member
It's already been two months.
If it wasn't bad before, why would it be bad now?
That's just a preventative maintenance option due to the disassembly time involved.
I chose to trust the OEM pump versus a replacement.
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YY1
Well-Known Member
Here's a potential pain point.
In addition to the external T14 socket required, there's precious little clearance from the bolts that go into the block/head, and the frame rail.
Fortunately I had just bought an extension set at "yellow tag" pricing from Lowes and it had a super short one that I thought sure I'd never use....wrong.
Note third pic is looking up from inside the wheel well.
In addition to the external T14 socket required, there's precious little clearance from the bolts that go into the block/head, and the frame rail.
Fortunately I had just bought an extension set at "yellow tag" pricing from Lowes and it had a super short one that I thought sure I'd never use....wrong.
Note third pic is looking up from inside the wheel well.
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YY1
Well-Known Member
Here's another-
The circled bracket needs to be removed to get the vacuum pump off.
...but it's made so it blocks a wrench from being used from the top.
I had to go in from the side and take 1/16th turns. NOT fun.
So....I made a "modification" before reinstalling-
WAY easier and could make almost 1/4 turns.
The circled bracket needs to be removed to get the vacuum pump off.
...but it's made so it blocks a wrench from being used from the top.
I had to go in from the side and take 1/16th turns. NOT fun.
So....I made a "modification" before reinstalling-
WAY easier and could make almost 1/4 turns.
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YY1
Well-Known Member
...and speaking of that motor mount.....
There's zero clearance on one of the bolt landings for a ratchet.
There's even not enough for a closed end wrench with a large head (like a Gear Wrench)
I actually had to sand/wire wheel the outer circumference of this wrench to get it to work without binding.
That one's gonna just have to be guessed at torque.
There's zero clearance on one of the bolt landings for a ratchet.
There's even not enough for a closed end wrench with a large head (like a Gear Wrench)
I actually had to sand/wire wheel the outer circumference of this wrench to get it to work without binding.
That one's gonna just have to be guessed at torque.
Bee1971
Well-Known Member
Glad I didn’t pull the vacuum pump , or bought the tools
Saw no reason to unless the belt broke or skipped a tooth
Anyways , passed 115,000 miles now
Fingers crossed for 200,000
Survived another WI Winter
Have had a few codes pop up this past winter
One was for a wheel speed sensor - Damn dash lit up with enough lights
Another was a turbo boost code - That one got me a little worried as power was down for a day
Both codes cleared and zero issues in the last few months - Still scratching my brain
Another weird issue is the cruise control won’t turn on every once in awhile , after it was on and then turned off , won’t come back on until the car is turned completely back off
Manual transmission
Car runs great though LOL
Saw no reason to unless the belt broke or skipped a tooth
Anyways , passed 115,000 miles now
Fingers crossed for 200,000
Survived another WI Winter
Have had a few codes pop up this past winter
One was for a wheel speed sensor - Damn dash lit up with enough lights
Another was a turbo boost code - That one got me a little worried as power was down for a day
Both codes cleared and zero issues in the last few months - Still scratching my brain
Another weird issue is the cruise control won’t turn on every once in awhile , after it was on and then turned off , won’t come back on until the car is turned completely back off
Manual transmission
Car runs great though LOL
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khryslerkid
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1.4 Turbo is an interference engine.
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Could it Bee a ground somewheres?
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I’ve taken that same gamble 3 or 4 times, so far I haven’t regretted it.
YY1
Well-Known Member
I occasionally get a "service parking brake" code that also disables the cruise control.
Turn off and back on has reset it several times.
Happens maybe once a quarter or less.
I'm going on year 8 on this 10 year old car at 115,500 miles.
Other than oil and filter, tires, timing belt, wiper blades, and a wheel sensor-
Zero maintenance expense.
One "false code" that tells me the license light is out.
Not bad.
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