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Tire spin

Wayne66

Wayne66

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Will a 4.10 gear cause more or less tire spin vs say a 3.55 gear?
 
It depends on the position of your foot and tire size!
 
4.10s will be easier to spin, but also easier to recover. If you're spinning with 3.55s, I'd bet the 4.10s will be an improvement.
 
Dump the Radial TA tires and it will be better.
 
I went to the track a couple of weeks ago and the car was on a pair of 275/60 Mickey street radials, leaving anywhere from 1200 to 1800 rpm, spun out of the hole shifting at 5800 and through the traps at 5700 plus and went a 2.2 60 ft 12.1 quarter at 121 mph with the 3.55 gear.
What kind of suggestions for getting the car the hook up.
It has 20” frt segment super stock spring with cal-tracks with about 3/8” gap between the bar and spring.
With driver about 3750lbs.
 
Way too much gap on Caltracs. We use a nickel to set the gap.
You or someone about the same weight needs to be in the driver seat to do adjustment.
YMMV
Jim
 
Wayne66 said:
I went to the track a couple of weeks ago and the car was on a pair of 275/60 Mickey street radials, leaving anywhere from 1200 to 1800 rpm, spun out of the hole shifting at 5800 and through the traps at 5700 plus and went a 2.2 60 ft 12.1 quarter at 121 mph with the 3.55 gear.
What kind of suggestions for getting the car the hook up.
It has 20” frt segment super stock spring with cal-tracks with about 3/8” gap between the bar and spring.
With driver about 3750lbs.
Click to expand...
By street radials, do you mean the sportsman st, et street s/s, or et street r? Those sportsman sts are basically cooper cobras or bfgs. I have a 4 speed and a motor that needs the rpms, but i switched from 3.55s to 4.56s, and went from a 295 50 15 cooper cobra to a 28 x 10.5 stiffwall and improved greatly. I dont mind the 4.56s running around town honestly, even the fact that its on a spool hasn't bothered me that much
 
My suggestions:
1. Slicks
2. Bias slicks, real ones.
3. Big slicks.
121 is a very low 11 second mph.... if not high tens.
You need a mid 1.6 60 ft with 3.55 (maybe low 1.7s). High 1.5s with 4.10 gear.
 
Get a friend to video the tires as it leaves, (from the driver's side if possible) to see what the suspension is doing. Slo-mo is even better.
I have definitely heard it reported that ss springs and caltracs do not play well together.
 
33 IMP said:
My suggestions:
1. Slicks
2. Bias slicks, real ones.
3. Big slicks.
121 is a very low 11 second mph.... if not high tens.
You need a mid 1.6 60 ft with 3.55 (maybe low 1.7s). High 1.5s with 4.10 gear.
Click to expand...
I agree, with that kind of power u need slicks.
 
33 IMP said:
A-bodies only race car forum has a 10 page sticky thread on how to tune caltracs.
Edit: my bad, only 8 pages.
Click to expand...
I found the best way to tune them (with a 4 speed) is to replace them with ladder bars.
 
max426 said:
Way too much gap on Caltracs. We use a nickel to set the gap.
You or someone about the same weight needs to be in the driver seat to do adjustment.
YMMV
Jim
Click to expand...
last I read , ''do not use with superstock springs "" , they try to counteract each other ,,,JOHN CALVERT...
 
I don't think the front segment of the superstock springs will make the caltracs work properly. If the car was lighter and had less power I've heard of them working together. You'd likely have a better chance of getting it to hook w the s/s springs alone or buy Calvert split monoleafs. Either I would think needs adjustable shocks. If you have s/s springs alone make sure you have enough shock travel when the car lifts..
I don't know what track conditions were like but I've been to street races that traction was poor with a 14x32 slick.. I've also been tracks that it was like glue and ran a 1.90s 60' on 215/70r14s
 
Last edited:
Curiousyellow71 said:
I don't think the front segment of the superstock springs is strong enough to make the caltracs work properly. If the car was lighter and had less power I've heard of them working together. You'd likely have a better chance of getting it to hook w the s/s springs alone or buy Calvert split monoleafs. Either I would think needs adjustable shocks. If you have s/s springs alone make sure you have enough shock travel when the car lifts..
I don't know what track conditions were like but I've been to street races that traction was poor with a 14x32 slick.. I've also been tracks that it was like glue and ran a 1.90s 60' on 215/70r14s
Click to expand...
Side topic, if you're starting from stock suspension, would you go with the superstock springs or a full calvert setup? I think for the price, im leaning towards the calvert suspension because its honestly not that expensive, compared to some other setups
 
You should be able to hook up on the super stock springs with the ET Streets. Calvert springs and bars are nice but not needed for a low 11 second B Body. What shocks are you running, they will make a difference. I run the factory XHD springs with the 22" front segment, DA viking shocks, ET streets, 4.1 gear, 448ci. I added a couple of leaves to them and biased them to the front, front clamped every leaf and one clamp in the back, they are heavy though, car goes 3865lbs with driver, 1.57 60ft.
 
340runner said:
Side topic, if you're starting from stock suspension, would you go with the superstock springs or a full calvert setup? I think for the price, im leaning towards the calvert suspension because its honestly not that expensive, compared to some other setups
Click to expand...
Shocks for either set up are overlooked and good ones aren't cheap.
The super stock springs can have a fairly high rear ride height and usually one side w the extra leaf is higher then the other. For s/s springs the front shackle has to be changed because the front segment is A body length. Calverts split mono's front spring segment is stock length. I do prefer the Calverts, its nice that split monoleafs come in different ride heights, the car sits level and caltracs are somewhat adjustable. We have them on 2 cars at the moment. Both cars are lowered pretty good. Not something that you can really do w s/s spring.
 
Last edited:
We race Cal tracs and radials. First off with the correct shocks a S/S spring will hook you combo. S/S springs are incorrrect for use with Caltracs. They are too stiff, The Cal trac eliminates any need for a stiff front spring segment. Most Cal trac racers use composite single leaf springs. I disagree that a 4.10 will spin worse. A 4.10 will apply more torque to the tire. Once a radial spins you are done. A 3.55 will give it more wheel speed if it breaks loose. Torque plants the tire. The shock controls how fast it is planted. Run of the mill shocks will limit your ability to hook. The first thing you need is slow motion cell phone video from the side at the starting line. You can probably get away with stock front shocks, maybe. But it needs something at least like Rancho, Qa1, or Calvert rears. If you are going to race often it would be wise to invest in even better shocks. My street car (Volare) has dead stock front stuff. Homemade soft leaf springs with QA1 single adjustable rears.With a 4.30 it runs 1.53-1.55 60 ft @11.0. The more power you make the better you can make it hook. Son's car (62 Savoy) with 4.10 and Cal tracs went 1.31/9.62 yesterday on radials.
Doug
 
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