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Body shop out of State.

Anyone ever use an out of State body shop to do the work on your car? I have a guy in N.C. He says he can pick the car up included in the price. Of course, I'm going to get local estimates as well, but I'm curious how much cheaper N.C would be instead of up North.
Yep. Look for SMOTHERS TUNED SUPERCARS. (Talala OK). NEVER used a Better, More attention to detail shop since my father retired. Exceptional Bodywork as well.
 
I would not do it . I’d want to be close by the shop so I can check in often. Even then people get burned by shops with good reputations. I’d be very cautious, to the point of being paranoid. I still remember a guy I knew who took his ‘69 GTX in for light “restoration”. He got the car back after 6 months. The paint was beautiful, but the shop “lost” all of his trim, so they just filled all of the trim holes and painted it. Looked nice but missing trim. Coincidentally the shop owner had a ‘69 satellite sitting in the back lot. When the guy filed a lawsuit against the shop owner, the shop closed, and disappeared. I’m sure they just reopened under a new business name in another town. Rinse, repeat. Point being, you need to be close by to kick the shop owner in the a** every week. And pull your trim before taking it in.
 
Sometimes they need the trim when they are doing the blocking, depending on the trim.
I suggest taking the trim to the shop when they are doing it. Worked well for me at times.
 
Sometimes they need the trim when they are doing the blocking, depending on the trim.
I suggest taking the trim to the shop when they are doing it. Worked well for me at times.
I found a place locally that can replate everything for me. But most likely I will stay local, so that way I can bring all my chrome to get done.
 
I found a place locally that can replate everything for me. But most likely I will stay local, so that way I can bring all my chrome to get done.
I have a caution, the aluminum trim should not be plated. It will peel off in sharp splinters.
It needs to be anodized. You can strip the anodizing yourself, then polish it. I have used Met Pol for possibly 25 years. Pot metal I get original pieces done.
 
I have a caution, the aluminum trim should not be plated. It will peel off in sharp splinters.
It needs to be anodized. You can strip the anodizing yourself, then polish it. I have used Met Pol for possibly 25 years. Pot metal I get original pieces done.
Is Met Pol an actual brand? And you say you get you original pot metal pieces done, that's probably the "Charger" pieces on the door panels, who does those?
 
Is Met Pol an actual brand? And you say you get you original pot metal pieces done, that's probably the "Charger" pieces on the door panels, who does those?
Yes it is, but I bought it several years ago. For the last 10 or so years I have been using AUTO SOL.
Door panel medallions are pot metal, but I am unaware of anyone being able to re chrome them and keep the texture.
Pot metal stuff for re chroming, headlight surrounds, top of the fender signal light trim, trunk lid molding and taillight trim. A lot of this is remanufactured. I personally try and use original parts.
Hood trim and lower grille molding are stainless.
Top of the fender and door molding are anodized aluminum.
Wasn’t very clear, I stripped the anodizing and just keep the aluminum polished.
Get to be goodfriends with a dentist, preferably car guy.
There was a fellow at the 50th Anniversary of the Charger in Detroit. His fender trim was perfect. His dentist straightened all of the aluminum trim. Did it for fun, didn’t have to answer any questions.
You could end up spending more than you desire if you want to have a driver to enjoy. You just might want to drive it as a survivor. I haven’t read your first post again.

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