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Rebuilding a 67 Belvidere

Auggie56

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I bought this '67' Bevedere, a spring special, I'm told. Sixty-three K on the speedo. I looked it over in the owner's driveway. I was undriven until I bought. The car was original.
The one thing I did find was that the left front frame rail was rotted, just after the upper shock mount. Only the top was the solid part. I know you guys are going to have a few words here, but I wrapped the damaged rail with an eight-sheet aluminum. I had my fun with it till I tore it apart almost two years ago. I honestly never saw the rail being damaged. So what started was to locate a rebuildable 440 engine and 727 and trans. Changed out the rear axle for a 3:23. Rebuilt the front suspension and replaced the front inner fender. Again, I never noticed that frame rail. So I'll be the frame rail this fall. Interesting was finding a repop shock tower. I hit all the so-called Mopar after markets, and saw plenty of right side towers, no lefts, until this evening, I ordered it. Replaced the inner fender two years ago because of rust.
OK, now you have the long of it, and my main reason to post. I see most of the metal guys using a particular welder, it is fed with a welder's rod. The result was some pretty clean work. What type of welder am I looking for? It's not your stick-type welding. Any tips on installing that from a rail? I have pictures of installing that big block on my phone, just need to download them here.

Thanks

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A wire feed Mig welder should do the job. I would recommend using one with the gas kit, instead of the flux cored wire for better penetration while welding the rail into the car.
 
I forgot to mention that both rear frame rails are heavily rusted. Should replace them both this winter.
 
Get a wire feed/MIG unit and use gas for shielding, not flux core, for the welding. Look around in your area for equipment auctions. You may be able to pick up a used unit for a good price. Plenty of options if you go new. Miller, Lincoln, Everlast, ESAB, Hobart, HTP are great units. Replacement/service parts are readily available. You can go 110 or 220 volt on some of them. Others are dedicated to a specific voltage. All of my stuff is 220. Sometimes in the past the smaller ones just didn't have enough poop in them to penetrate when I was welding. Seemed that the weld was just piling on. If you go 110, make sure you have at least a 20 amp circuit to run it on and that its not on the end of the circuit run. Like comparing a 25' garden hose to a 100'. 25 will have more pressure coming out than the 100. Makes a difference on the weld quality.
 
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