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Steering not self correcting

So, group think here is leaning towards the OP's main issue is more a steering gear box adjustment rather than an alignment issue that he first inquired about?
Not really to me. it’s just his description of the issue is a little difficult to pin down or don’t immediately make sense. Not being critical. Some issues and symptoms are difficult to describe accurately or in a way that makes a remedy apparent. So spitball some possibilities.
 
Not really to me. it’s just his description of the issue is a little difficult to pin down or don’t immediately make sense. Not being critical. Some issues and symptoms are difficult to describe accurately or in a way that makes a remedy apparent. So spitball some possibilities.
Went to check the fluid level in the P.S. reservoir and it looked bone dry so bought some fluid and it only took 1 to 1/2- 2 ounces tops to bring the fluid level up to the full/cold mark. Started the car and brought it up to operating temperature and checked level again now reading full/hot. Was hoping this would be the issue. With the car not in motion it was a little harder to turn the wheel right than it was left however with that said it almost seemed easier a some points when turning the wheel right. Was raining so couldn't take the car out for a road test however suspect the issue of not self correcting is still there. From reading a number of posts on B bodies, my local Manitoba Mopar Association and input from a 40+ year red seal mechanic it appears the general consensus is to put more caster into the alignment.
 
I doubt 0.3* of castor is going to generate enough self centering force to overcome the valving arrangement inside the P/S, valving which determines when & how much assist is reqd. Very low tyre pressure would not help either.....
 
Would this be the screw and lock nut on top of the steering box?
The nut at the top you mention…adjusts the tension on the worm gear, if it has been torqued too tight, it can cause the steering to not self-correct or tighter yet, leave the wheel where it is unless steering it. Given what you describe, doesn’t seem to be your hassle, but since you asked about it, this is what moving the nut does aside from assembly. It was an ancient trick to reduce sloppy steering due to a worn gear. As posted, it could be the box wasn’t reassembled to correct tolerances.
 
I doubt 0.3* of castor is going to generate enough self centering force to overcome the valving arrangement inside the P/S, valving which determines when & how much assist is reqd. Very low tyre pressure would not help either.....
I spoke to the owner of the shop who did the alignment and he said the maximum castor adjustment he could get on my car was +0.3 (L) and +0.4 (R). Front tire pressure is 31 and 32 PSI. He feels as though it's a bad box so have ordered a new one. The box was purchased in September of 2023 and has a 3 year warranty so I can return the malfunctioning one, however am out the labour cost for R&R.
 
I hope that turns out to be the problem. While the caster is low, it should work.
 
I've seen you name drop the local Mopar club name a few times so I'm guessing that you took the advice of others on what shop to use.
If you can spin a wrench, you can learn to align a car. I did. Sadly, there are a LOT of classic car owners that short change themselves by settling for poor handling because they just don't know how good these cars can be....with a few minor changes.
Here is a fact you may not know....The taller that your front end is, the LESS caster that the steering has or can have.
See the chart:

Align 2.jpg


On a car set to a still inadequate 1.177 caster number, with the car raised up just one inch from there, the caster changes to a negative.... it reads -.672. There is a limited amount of adjustment in the alignment cams so if by any chance your car rides high in the front, getting a good caster number with stock parts may be difficult. The man at the shop should know this, he should have told you this.
Offset upper control arm bushings, aftermarket upper control arms, adjustable strut rods....they all are capable of dramatic improvements in caster numbers and will transform your car.
I have 8 degrees of caster, 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe in on this car:


GG Z1.JPG


It literally feels completely different than any stock classic car.
 
I had exactly the same problem: after a rebuild by a reputable shop, steering was dead. Turn wheel, wheel no turn back. Finally, I bought a Lares fast ratio box, and now it is much better, not completely normal, but acceptable. I even put in Firm Feel extra caster rods, no effect. It is probably the box, too tight.
 
Are there aftermarket upper control arms available for Mopars that give more castor? That is what is needed. A P/S box that is working properly moves the wheels after INPUT from the driver [ steering wheel ]. It will stay in that position until it gets another input from the driver. The only way to change the position other than from the driver is a greater force, such as the self centering force from a lot of positive castor, which will 'over rule' the driver input.
 
Are there aftermarket upper control arms available for Mopars that give more castor? That is what is needed.
Uhh....


cnfsd 1.gif


Where have you been? There are at least 5 or 6 manufacturers that offer tubular UCAs that all come with more caster built into them.
 
I no longer have a Mopar, which is why I asked the question in post #29. Not all of us as knowledgeable as you...
 
I've seen you name drop the local Mopar club name a few times so I'm guessing that you took the advice of others on what shop to use.
If you can spin a wrench, you can learn to align a car. I did. Sadly, there are a LOT of classic car owners that short change themselves by settling for poor handling because they just don't know how good these cars can be....with a few minor changes.
Here is a fact you may not know....The taller that your front end is, the LESS caster that the steering has or can have.
See the chart:

View attachment 1881882

On a car set to a still inadequate 1.177 caster number, with the car raised up just one inch from there, the caster changes to a negative.... it reads -.672. There is a limited amount of adjustment in the alignment cams so if by any chance your car rides high in the front, getting a good caster number with stock parts may be difficult. The man at the shop should know this, he should have told you this.
Offset upper control arm bushings, aftermarket upper control arms, adjustable strut rods....they all are capable of dramatic improvements in caster numbers and will transform your car.
I have 8 degrees of caster, 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe in on this car:


View attachment 1881884

It literally feels completely different than any stock classic car.
I took advise from a red seal mechanic of mine, some of the Manitoba Mopar Association members and B Body only members. The fact that I took the Mopar Club's advise of what shop to take my car to is because the shop is local. I haven't run across many members on the B Bodies site from Winnipeg so it would make no sense on taking the advise of where to take the car if the B Body member lived in the U.S. or even another Province for that matter. My front tires are about 27/28 inches tall. I know how to turn a wrench however have a bad back so lying under a car or doing work that's physical won't work for me so I have to pay someone capable to do the work.
 
I've seen you name drop the local Mopar club name a few times so I'm guessing that you took the advice of others on what shop to use.
If you can spin a wrench, you can learn to align a car. I did. Sadly, there are a LOT of classic car owners that short change themselves by settling for poor handling because they just don't know how good these cars can be....with a few minor changes.
Here is a fact you may not know....The taller that your front end is, the LESS caster that the steering has or can have.
See the chart:

View attachment 1881882

On a car set to a still inadequate 1.177 caster number, with the car raised up just one inch from there, the caster changes to a negative.... it reads -.672. There is a limited amount of adjustment in the alignment cams so if by any chance your car rides high in the front, getting a good caster number with stock parts may be difficult. The man at the shop should know this, he should have told you this.
Offset upper control arm bushings, aftermarket upper control arms, adjustable strut rods....they all are capable of dramatic improvements in caster numbers and will transform your car.
I have 8 degrees of caster, 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe in on this car:


View attachment 1881884

It literally feels completely different than any stock classic car.
Hard to tell what the rake is from this picture however the car sits almost even with only a slightly lower front end.
1752054734628.jpeg
 
Uhh....


Where have you been? There are at least 5 or 6 manufacturers that offer tubular UCAs that all come with more caster built into them.
I no longer have a Mopar, which is why I asked the question in post #29. Not all of us as knowledgeable as you...
I didn't claim to know everything. It would just seem that this would be common knowledge to people on the forum. You seem to chime in with advice often, I naturally expected you to know.
 
Just curious, who did your gearbox rebuild. Usually it's just because you don't have enough caster but bad steering parts or a bad gearbox can cause it.
It's an Autolite. Not sure of where (location it was reman.) After having it looked at closely by a red seal mechanic he stated it looks nowhere near my original 1969 box. The '69 box had four bolts on top plus the screw with locknut you could remove to make an adjustment where this new one has no visible bolts at all just the screw/locknut. I seem to recall the adjustment that could be made after removing the four bolts was referred to as the slide but could be incoorect on the slide term that was used.
 
It's an Autolite. Not sure of where (location it was reman.) After having it looked at closely by a red seal mechanic he stated it looks nowhere near my original 1969 box. The '69 box had four bolts on top plus the screw with locknut you could remove to make an adjustment where this new one has no visible bolts at all just the screw/locknut. I seem to recall the adjustment that could be made after removing the four bolts was referred to as the slide but could be incoorect on the slide term that was used.
Mine needs adjusted just a touch more. It still has a slight pull. The plate on the top of the gearbox has what I would call Oval bolt holes.They really aren't slotted. A friend on FABO used to work ar a Dodge dealer doing new car set ups and he said he carried a ratchet with a socket and extension and a small ball peen hammer when he went on test drives. He would crack the bolts loose and tap on the plate to adjust. Sometimes he had to do it a couple times to get it right. If you jack the front end up, start the car, and the steering wheel spins by itself, it needs adjusted. Don't stick your hand between the spokes. It may break your arm.
 
It's an Autolite. Not sure of where (location it was reman.) After having it looked at closely by a red seal mechanic he stated it looks nowhere near my original 1969 box. The '69 box had four bolts on top plus the screw with locknut you could remove to make an adjustment where this new one has no visible bolts at all just the screw/locknut. I seem to recall the adjustment that could be made after removing the four bolts was referred to as the slide but could be incoorect on the slide term that was used.
In a previous post A member told me to sit in the car and start it. They asked if the steering wheel turned when started where I replied no. The other day when the car was started the steering wheel did turn about one inch to the right.
 
This gear is laying on it's side but you can see the 2 bolt cover that can be adjusted.
1752348310688.png
 
In a previous post A member told me to sit in the car and start it. They asked if the steering wheel turned when started where I replied no. The other day when the car was started the steering wheel did turn about one inch to the right.
It needs adjustment and that much can cause a pull.
 
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