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Steering not self correcting

It needs adjustment and that much can cause a pull.
My old steering box had a plate on top of the gearbox held on with four bolts where I assume the adjustment can be made after the plate is removed. The new box has no visible bolts where a similar plate could be removed and only the screw/locknut to make any kind of adjustment. If an adjustment can be made to correct the pull would this adjustment also remedy the steering not self correcting?
 
My old steering box had a plate on top of the gearbox held on with four bolts where I assume the adjustment can be made after the plate is removed. The new box has no visible bolts where a similar plate could be removed and only the screw/locknut to make any kind of adjustment. If an adjustment can be made to correct the pull would this adjustment also remedy the steering not self correcting?
I think it could affect the self centering issue as well.
 
With the engine shut off, find the sloppy spot in the steering and then let go of the steering wheel.
Start the engine.
If the steering wheel twitches one way or the other, the valve body on the top of the steering box will need to be tapped towards the firewall or towards the front bumper. It'll probably only need to go a couple thousandths of an inch so take your time.

Loosen one of the two bolts then re-tighten it very lightly.
Do the same for the other bolt.

This will partially release the tension on the valve body thus allowing you to tap it gently up or down, depending on the direction of the twitching of the steering wheel.

If you go the wrong way, the twitching will get worse so just tap it in the other direction until you get to a point where the steering wheel doesn't twitch when you start the engine.

When you're satisfied with the results, tighten the two bolts.
 
This gear is laying on it's side but you can see the 2 bolt cover that can be adjusted. View attachment 1883634
If this box were turned to it's correct position rather than laying on it's side would these two bolts be facing upward? This is a picture of the steering box currently in the car.
1752349441167.jpeg

With the engine shut off, find the sloppy spot in the steering and then let go of the steering wheel.
Start the engine.
If the steering wheel twitches one way or the other, the valve body on the top of the steering box will need to be tapped towards the firewall or towards the front bumper. It'll probably only need to go a couple thousandths of an inch so take your time.

Loosen one of the two bolts then re-tighten it very lightly.
Do the same for the other bolt.

This will partially release the tension on the valve body thus allowing you to tap it gently up or down, depending on the direction of the twitching of the steering wheel.

If you go the wrong way, the twitching will get worse so just tap it in the other direction until you get to a point where the steering wheel doesn't twitch when you start the engine.

When you're satisfied with the results, tighten the two bolts.

IMG_2025-07-08-16-14-00-585.jpg
 
If this box were turned to it's correct position rather than laying on it's side would these two bolts be facing upward? This is a picture of the steering box currently in the car. View attachment 1883645


View attachment 1883745
My old steering box had four bolts on the top of the box that I assume is the access to make this adjustment. I don't know if what appears to be a bolt facing the fender is one of the two you mentioned had to be removed however if this is the location of the bolts that hold the plate on it looks far to close to the fender to get at the bottom bolt and remove the cover for adjustment. If I am correct in my observations this would be an incredibly stupid and awkward if not impossible location of the bolts and plate.
 
My old steering box had four bolts on the top of the box that I assume is the access to make this adjustment. I don't know if what appears to be a bolt facing the fender is one of the two you mentioned had to be removed however if this is the location of the bolts that hold the plate on it looks far to close to the fender to get at the bottom bolt and remove the cover for adjustment. If I am correct in my observations this would be an incredibly stupid and awkward if not impossible location of the bolts and plate.
The sloppy spot would be between the approximately 11 and 1 O'clock position (could be up to the 10 and 2 O'clock position) and when the key is bumped the steering wheel will jump/turn/twitch to the right about an inch.
 
Ok folks, it's an un-winable situation.
Is it only me, or is that a non mopar steering box.
I don't know what a Borgeson box looks like, but I've seen and worked on plenty of mopar.
Now that he posted a picture, that looked wrong from the first glance.
We have to think outside the (mopar) box!
 
Ok folks, it's an un-winable situation.
Is it only me, or is that a non mopar steering box.
I don't know what a Borgeson box looks like, but I've seen and worked on plenty of mopar.
Now that he posted a picture, that looked wrong from the first glance.
The box was reman. by a business in Winnipeg called Autoline. I ordered the box at a Piston Ring location nearby. If this is not a Mopar steering box but was accidently put in a cardboard box with number 55-6546 on the label would the mounting holes to the frame and metal tubing to the reservoir still line up?
 
Ok folks, it's an un-winable situation.
Is it only me, or is that a non mopar steering box.
I don't know what a Borgeson box looks like, but I've seen and worked on plenty of mopar.
Now that he posted a picture, that looked wrong from the first glance.
We have to think outside the (mopar) box!
I think it's another manufacturer as well. It looks nothing like the one I posted which is the box that' in my 64. I have np idea who manufactured RWW's gearbox or how and if it can be fine tuned.
 
Power Steering wide shot.jpg
Power Steering, tight shot.jpg


I just went out in the garage and shot these pictures of the stock MoPar box in my '68 GTX.

One bolt is hidden behind the hose fitting and the other is at roughly five o'clock.
 
View attachment 1883787View attachment 1883788

I just went out in the garage and shot these pictures of the stock MoPar box in my '68 GTX.

One bolt is hidden behind the hose fitting and the other is at roughly five o'clock.
Is that your original box from 1968? I'm just wondering if a different manufacturer did make my current box would they have moved the bolts that have to be loosened for adjustment to a different location. Also from the picture of your box the line to the reservoir is close but different than in the picture of my current mystery box. I know that the line to the reservoir didn't have to be reconfigured.
 
It's the original box that's been in the car since new in Feb '68 when I took delivery of the car.

The return line to the reservoir has been replaced due to rubber fatigue but it is in the same place as the original.

The pressure line was replaced a year or so ago with an NOS hose with the proper goose-neck fitting.

The section needing adjustment is the actual valve that diverts pump pressure to one side of the box or the other. An internal lever monitors the position of the steering wheel and opens the valve in the appropriate direction.

The plate with the 4 bolts is for setting the worm and pinion back-lash. Adjustment should only be done with the steering box in the center of it's travel. The center position is where the gear contact gap is tightest.
As you turn to the left or right, the gap increases so i is very important to make sure the box is in the center of it's travel when you adjust the back-lash, otherwise, the steering will bind up when you pass the center position.
 
This thread is getting hard to follow.

The last couple of posted pictures are not what the OP has. Look a little closer.

@rww124 was you car manufactured in Canada or something?
 
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