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1968 Plymouth GTX

Door lock is not working. If I push down to lock the door, I can still get the door to open by pressing firmly on the outside button. It's like the pressure from my thumb on the button is enough to override the lock and open the door.

I am beginning to wonder if the previous owner installed the wrong mechanism.

Notice that there is an extra rod connector at the back. Not sure what that is for?
Also, does the rod extending up to the top of door attach on the inside of the lever as shown here or should it be on the other side?

Door Lock Issue.JPG
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Door lock is not working. If I push down to lock the door, I can still get the door to open by pressing firmly on the outside button. It's like the pressure from my thumb on the button is enough to override the lock and open the door.

I am beginning to wonder if the previous owner installed the wrong mechanism.

Notice that there is an extra rod connector at the back. Not sure what that is for?
Also, does the rod extending up to the top of door attach on the inside of the lever as shown here or should it be on the other side?

View attachment 1848607
Click to expand...

Nothing???
 
I believe that rear window trim slips onto the package tray before you install it. Then you push the
tray all the way back to the window.
 
A question for you engine builders.
When cleaning the pushrods for my engine, I noticed some small marks on a couple of the rods. Looks like pitting to me. Would these still be useable?
Pushrod Pitting.JPG
 
Okay, I'm back with another question.
My original engine paint is Turquoise, however I noticed that the one from Mopar looks green:
1751670168650.png


And the one from VHT looks blue:
1751670219480.png


Both are advertised as Mopar Turquoise.
I like the blue tint better.
 
Nope they discontinued it from the dealer. If you get a can make sure it sprays!
 
I gave away my three cans as door prizes at the FBBO tent last year. They might still be in the hands of a member here.
 
The oil pan was pretty dented up but a new one is $200 so I decided to knock the dents out and repaint it.
Then I discovered it's not technically correct for my car. It's a 187 oil pan, where from what I read the '68-'69 440s came with a 402 oil pan.

Since my car is not numbers matching (the engine that came with it is a 1970) vehicle is it worth replacing this oil pan.
Before:
Oil Pan Dented.JPG


After:
Oil Pan.jpg
 
Were the motor mounts originally painted the same color as the engine?

These were painted blue so I media blasted them and painted them Turquoise with some old Mopar Engine Enamel I had. Then someone on another site said they were black from the factory. Ugh!
Turquoise Pain under LED lighting.JPG
 
The car came with an 850 cfm Holley with manual choke set up. The carb, like the engine is rusted and it took penetrating oil soaking for two days to get it moving again.
No sure if it's worth rebuilding? I guess taking it apart may answer my question concerning rebuilding.

Also, this is the manifold that came on the car:
Manifold Number.jpg


I am having the block zero decked and going with Aluminum heads. Should I consider a different manifold as well?
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
The car came with an 850 cfm Holley with manual choke set up. The carb, like the engine is rusted and it took penetrating oil soaking for two days to get it moving again.
No sure if it's worth rebuilding? I guess taking it apart may answer my question concerning rebuilding.

Also, this is the manifold that came on the car:
View attachment 1882258

I am having the block zero decked and going with Aluminum heads. Should I consider a different manifold as well?
Click to expand...
I sure would be.
 
I resprayed the oil pan with OER Turquoise Engine Enamel and it clearly has a more blue tint to it.

Oil Pan in OER Turquoise.jpg


Oil Pan Bottom Close Up.JPG


I am thinking of selling it and getting the correct pan for my application.

Inside view:
187 Oil Pan Inside.jpg


Oil Pan Pickup Tube.jpg


Listed it on eBay.
 
Last edited:
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