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69 Super Bee 383, Holley brawler kicked on linkage? Does this look correct?

MikeyM said:
Thanks 66Sat. The problem I'm having is I can't get any more downward adjustment when turning the adjustable end of the "downrod". It's bottomed out but almost to where it needs to be.

So if the Holley adapter for the linkage just spaces the linkage over a bit (I think that's what I got from what you said) and does not somehow allow for more adjustment of that downrod, I'm kind of at a loss. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mikey
Click to expand...
Well that's what the nut and bolt in the slot does - it allows more force to be exerted on the kickdown lever.
ab.JPG
 
Mikey, the upper rod that is attached to the carb needs to be turned counterclockwise to adjust it and make the rod longer. Try this: if there aren't enough threads, insert a bolt, as shown in the 66 Sat picture. Kelly

rod 2.JPG
 
Just a thought for you, I went from 383 to 440 with the original linkage. Added a 1-1-1/2” threaded extension (male/female) to downrod for more adjustment. Long time ago & can’t remember what it’s called.
 
Mikey, another way of doing it is to use this if you need to extend the rod length. This is what I've used over the years. A lot of guys don't even know you can buy this part from Edelbrock.

Automatic Transmission Rod Extension Kit #8003 for Chrysler 1/4 in. Rod​


edelbock.jpg
 
Last edited:
The Holley throttle adapter will move the stud higher which resin a longer arc of travel, I wouldn’t attempt to make any further adjustments until the adapter is installed.
 
Black Sheep, got it - thank you.

So I did take moes' advice and adjust the upper carb rod per the FSM (this is the 2nd part of the adjustment procedure that I did NOT do) and now the shifting in all gears is PERFECT. Firm but not harsh. Smooth, but not soft. Just right. So thank you all for your help.

However, I do have a kickdown "when I floor it" question. Just wanted to know when/if it's supposed to kick down to 2nd if I'm accelerating briskly in 3rd at about 40-50 mph or so. It didn't but maybe more adjustment?

Thanks again,
Mikey
 
Hey all,

Thanks again to everyone for your help on my linkage issue. As of now, the 1-2-3 shifts are good and the kickdown is now working and hits at just the right time - about 95% or more to the floor.

The last issue I have with the shifting is on the 2-3 shift only when there is no pressure on the accelerator pedal. When in 2nd, cruising slowly - say about 25mph and lightly accelerating, if I let off the gas it clunks into 3rd. This never happens if I have pressure, even a bit, on the pedal. my trans shift adjustment downrod is almost bottomed out so wondering if I need to go a little more.

If it makes a difference, there is sometimes a clunk into D and R, not sure what's causing that. Anyone have any idease?

Thanks,
Mikey
 
That clunk into R or D could be your u-joints, like ckessel said, or you have some play in the pinion. You could try to reduce your idle speed to see if that helps. That 2-3 clunk you hear is common if the transmission had a TF-2 Shift kit installed in your transmission.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. That's a good point - I do have a touch of bearing noise on accel and decel but NOT when I try to "keep it in the middle" if you know what i mean.
 
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