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Points or no points? That is the question.

MoparJW said:
I've been running Standard Blue streak points/condenser for 18 years and many miles, preventively swapped them out every year.
Had one bad condenser last year, was bad out of the box.
The car was still driveable but had random misfires at idle, cruise and acceleration.
I've also had a set of new points that had corrosion on the metal spring which caused a misfire.
Other than that no problems.
Click to expand...
Try Ray Brenner @ Halifaxhops@hotmail.com. Good Guy and knows his ****. Delt with him many times for points systems. Stocks everything.
 
Kern Dog said:
I think that far more forum members have been helped by Nacho than any blowhard from Decatur.
If the forum still had the red X, it would be immediately evident who is liked and trusted and who is not.
Click to expand...
This guy have no idea that I was Don’s customer buying one of the maybe last A688 units, which failed and had to get the warranty (money return) while the first HR688 came out and the ppl who got it found the HEI unit hidden down the case… being talked around 12 years ago on several boards.

Don itself told me about the problem to keep the A688 unit being built on an email and the reason to move on into the newer units, which I maybe still have around in my email inbox

Different internals… well, Halifaxhops already shown the internals difference pics between the HR688 and the HRR688 units, which at the time when the HRR688 was released wasn’t published and ppl was scared about being “scammed” again ( Halifaxhops himself as he let us know on #24 reply in fact) , so, no need to talk more about.

Is just about keep the unsense war around
 
Last edited:
Nacho, I have not always agreed with you on everything but you sure do try to help people. We all benefit from that. I don't see you being rude to others or bragging about how smart that you are. I appreciate your input and hope that you don't let a few mean people chase you away.
 
I was curious and called FBO yesterday. Here we go. Don built around 15 units with the HEI and stopped them according to Dana. The new ones are totally different no transistor to overheat either. as many made in USA electronics used as possible. Case and board made in the USA. Assembled and programmed here also. Explains alot of the price to me. I would run one for sure.
 
I've been using a RevNator for over a decade and have moved it between multiple Mopars. I've really liked it, I also would love to use an FBO box Don is about 30 min away from me in Cottage Grove. I had Halifax set up my fire core distributor it's been awesome. I drive my Belvedere quite a bit, nearly daily driven.
 
Belvedere408 said:
I've been using a RevNator for over a decade and have moved it between multiple Mopars. I've really liked it, I also would love to use an FBO box Don is about 30 min away from me in Cottage Grove. I had Halifax set up my fire core distributor it's been awesome. I drive my Belvedere quite a bit, nearly daily driven.
Click to expand...
I got the 00020 unit… probably the first one sold/being used overseas. My car is on the customers ride of their website. Unfortunately my car is dissambled since 2013. Still need to get back to Venezuela to finish some of the body job and reassembly it.

The 2 years my car was in one piece with the Rev-N-Nator box I was really happy, not as hot like the Chromed MP or the A688 box (specially when starting), but more stable along the RPMs response without miss a beat, like I could feel with the others.
 
i have been running a brand X HEI thingy on my ram charger for years. made a bracket and put it next to the booster. had to rig something when the orange box went a way plowing snow and just happened to have one in my tool box.
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
My car is a pretty much daily driver, not a weekend warrior or show queen, not that is a problem, just I probably put more miles on my car then most people, so I might have a bit more practical experience on todays parts, not the good ol days when you can buy good parts at the parts stores:
. I use factory mopar electronic ignition on my mild 440, starts up easy no matter the weather, revs up to 6k with no breaking up, great system. Not hating against hei or any of the other aftermarket systems, just saying factory can be cheap to get and still works. I’ve also ran a dual point distributor for a while, it works, but there is a noticeable difference, doesn’t start as easy, doesn’t seem to rev as good, still works good enough though.

With that being said, I’ve never tried any of the aftermarket high dollar stuff, but I’m sure it works too until it doesn’t, until it doesn’t. But I’ve had my points distributor fail, and I’ve had my electronic ignition fail. No system is bomb proof, they will all fail! But the benefit of a more factory system is parts are a little easier to get.

So in my experience, I would prefer the factory electronic ignition. I still have a little carb tuning to do, but I’ve get good fuel economy, it’ll out run a newer Camaro, and it just works. Just throwing my 2 cents in the piggy bank.

View attachment 1883461
Click to expand...
What coil are you using? The Standard that has been good for two years leaked it's oil. What ECU do you have?
 
1963JAM said:
What coil are you using? The Standard that has been good for two years leaked it's oil. What ECU do you have?
Click to expand...
Matching the ECU, coil resistance and ballast resistance are all important. @HALIFAXHOPS gave me those specs but I'll be darned if I can find my notes. May be he will be gracious enough to repeat them. I could post them in a sticky so we can find them easier.
 
I am sure there are more.

ecu chart 2.png


ecu III.png


ECUApplication.jpg


ecuII.jpg
 
OK the coil should have a primary resistance of 1.5 ohms for a mopar standard ecu. Not a big fan of the new Mancini boxes they are Chinese knockoffs painted orange and have a fake transistor. They have a pretty good fail rate also.

www.forabodiesonly.com

How to tell a "fake" ECU from a real one

There are a ton of fake ecu's out there two easy wats to tell at a glance are the height of the transistor, usally the fake ones are around 3/8" high and a real one 5/16 or so. Another way to tell at a glance is if there is printing on the...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
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