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Lakewood Scattershield ID

There’s a cup bolted to the BH for the starter nose. The other position is for the 130 T FW.

I had to have a sleeve to take up the slop in one of my starter mounting holes. Using a Dakota style starter.
 
I posted about shield to block alignment in post #9. On the chance it wasn't done and possibly the mesh is to deep on the starter. Don't think it's possible but never know. Mine was off .014.
 
Thanks padam and thanks Fran, I will have to check these measurements when reinstalling.
 
Thankyou, but I'm surprised, and I would be very surprised if it would receive one today, especially with on only two grade 8 1/2" bolts restraining the radial portion under the greatest load in a clutch/FW failure.
 
j-c-c-62 said:
Thankyou, but I'm surprised, and I would be very surprised if it would receive one today, especially with on only two grade 8 1/2" bolts restraining the radial portion under the greatest load in a clutch/FW failure.
Click to expand...
Actually, four bolts. Plus all the ones bolted thru the block saver. (Another twelve or so).
But I agree, it probably won't cert (header clearance mod).
My point was a response to his last paragraph of post one. National event, it might get looked at. Otherwise? Not a chance. Run it, race it if you want.
But as others have said, check centerline alignment for starter life.
 
Not to be picky, but my guess is the circumference 1/2" (4) bolts will be the first bolts to be load in an explosion, and since the 4 bolts of 2 pairs will all see nearly the exact same load, only two bolts need to fail in order for the other actual block mounting bolts can start to absorb real loads. The analogy here is similar in this case to adding tension to a rope, it doesn't matter how long the rope is, its always the weakest spot that will fail first, and in this case its IMO either of the two pairs of radial flange mounted bolts.
But your premise of will it fly, I totally agree, kind of like anybody ever have an inspector measure the distance for the location of a drive shaft safety loop (6")?
 
j-c-c-62 said:
Not to be picky, but my guess is the circumference 1/2" (4) bolts will be the first bolts to be load in an explosion, and since the 4 bolts of 2 pairs will all see nearly the exact same load, only two bolts need to fail in order for the other actual block mounting bolts can start to absorb real loads. The analogy here is similar in this case to adding tension to a rope, it doesn't matter how long the rope is, its always the weakest spot that will fail first, and in this case its IMO either of the two pairs of radial flange mounted bolts.
But your premise of will it fly, I totally agree, kind of like anybody ever have an inspector measure the distance for the location of a drive shaft safety loop (6")?
Click to expand...
I've had tech ask about a driveshaft loop. Never had one actually look for one.
 
Lol.....
www.ebay.com

Mopar Big Block Four Speed Two-piece Lakewood Scatter Shield Very Rare 440 383 | eBay

Mopar big block Lakewood two-piece scatter shield for 10.5 and 11 in clutch assemblies. Very hard to find nowadays. Will need to be blasted and painted but in good condition overall. Was slightly trimmed on one ear- please see photo. Does not affect performance or safety. Cool retro piece. You...
www.ebay.com

www.forbbodiesonly.com

SOLD - Big Block Scattershields (2)

I have 2 big block mopar scattershields. One is two-piece split style that allows access to clutch without removing entire bellhousing. Other is standard one-piece solid. I believe both are Lakewood. Only have one block plate. Asking $550 for the pair. Would prefer local pickup...
www.forbbodiesonly.com www.forbbodiesonly.com
 
Last edited:
So depending on applications SFI Bellhousing Certifications are valid anywhere from 1 to 5 years.
Nothing I have seen pictured here that is split on this post is younger than 5 years is my guess.
 
jdsgtx said:
They didn’t
Click to expand...
Hey guys,

I googled the pn# off the block plate I currently have and used with my mystery BH. It says it's a "Lakewood Safety Block Plate" for Chryslers. So does this mean this BP is specific to Lakewood BH's only or can it work with other BH brands? To me it seems like my BH is a Lakewood but some of you think that Lakewood never built a 2 piece. In any case, I do plan on cleaning it up and having a friend who's a local drag racer install the new clutch assembly and transmission onto the engine.

I also called Powermaster (I'm guessing my starter might be theirs, but hard to tell unless I scrape the paint off and quite possibly the label also). The paint is black rubberized material. Anyway, they said that 99% of the time, regardless of the make of the starter, a broken nose signifies a backfire or kick back of the motor. I asked if I could weld the nose back on and he said it would be very difficult to 'align" the broken piece off and weld and it would be easier to just get a new starter. I will get the suggested starter but it just seemed a shame if I didn't try to salvage my current one. I will also make sure to check the alignment before installing.
jdsgtx said:
They didn’t
Click to expand...

IMG_3983.jpg
 
33 IMP said:
I don't think that a Lakewood safety plate would necessarily have the same lower bolt spacing as a different brand of scattershield.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup:
They're not even close to this new Lakewood plate comparing with my Ansen..........

1755703091445.png
 
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