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There are worse things …. But!

Moparfiend

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So I’m working on getting the kickdown linkage ratio to match my throttle linkage travel on a custom set up. Fun stuff!

So I’m looking for a specific nylon piece that I can tap a 5/16-18 and have the outer diameter match the inner diameter of my carburetor throttle bracket to use as a bushing.

Digging through all my stash, I find almost the exact piece I need. I have only one. I don’t know where I got it.

So I tap it out and it’s perfect! Just the right size! I slowly file the length to get it to where I to be. But because it’s nylon it’s taking a long time and I’m getting close but it’s taking a really long time and I’m thinking I should just put this on my mini belt sander and just get it done.

Then, I think no it’s probably gonna fly out of my fingers and I’ll lose it. But then I think I really don’t wanna spend any more time filing this sucker and if it falls, I’ll just pick it up it up no big deal. How far could it roll?

So, I belt sanded it a bit and I get real close. I mean really close but I need just a little bit more and rather than file it down on the final pass of course I go back to the sander.

……….and bink it flys away and after looking for this small nut sized nylon piece for what seemed like an hour moving equipment, sweeping and being on my hands and knees in a 110°F garage it’s freaking gone! Nowhere to be seen……..

It’s not the first time something like this has happened, but dang those small parts in a garage…..and the desire to speed up the job makes a plethora of disappointment and frustration. It wouldn’t be so bad but I know I’ll never find a piece of nylon exactly the same.

But yes, there are worse things….
 
The easiest way to find something you've lost is to buy or make a replacement. Almost immediately the lost part will materialize :D
 
The easiest way to find something you've lost is to buy or make a replacement. Almost immediately the lost part will materialize :D
Yes when I am all done with the new one it will take the transporter back to the garage.
 
The easiest way to find something you've lost is to buy or make a replacement. Almost immediately the lost part will materialize :D
That answers why I have more 10mm sockets and wrench’s today than I had 5 years ago
 
Yep lost my k frame bolts and got another set. Guess what I found today. :lol:
 
Get you a chunk of Delrin Acetal.
Much more machineable.
Stronger and less previous to
heat and chemicals.
(the white plastic type cutting
boards you'll find at Walmart
are delrin). Tough stuff.
 
(the white plastic type cutting
boards you'll find at Walmart
are delrin). Tough stuff.
No they're not, they're HDPE (food grade). There are VERY FEW retail type products made of Acetal or Delrin - its just a little too special for "average" use.

These are very machineable but you won't find pieces anywhere but from a plastics distributor (like I was before retirement !!) and they'll have minimum purchase requirements. McMaster Carr will have what you need but what you're doing just isn't worth the cost.

Your material choices for something like this are:
Nylon - ideal for bushings but not easily macineable
Acetal/Delrin - ideal and machines nicely
UHMW - good but doesn't machine very well
HDPE - probably too soft for what you're doing
Teflon - not for what you're doing


Give me the rough dimensions of your piece.

Have you considered an over-the-counter bronze bushing instead of dicking around with this?
 
Found it! It flew into the garbage can! I sifted all my trash and there laying in the bottom mixed with metal and wood saw dust was the threaded nylon bushing.
I finished machining it and installed it!

IMG_7368.jpeg


IMG_7369.jpeg


IMG_7370.jpeg
 
No they're not, they're HDPE (food grade). There are VERY FEW retail type products made of Acetal or Delrin - its just a little too special for "average" use.

These are very machineable but you won't find pieces anywhere but from a plastics distributor (like I was before retirement !!) and they'll have minimum purchase requirements. McMaster Carr will have what you need but what you're doing just isn't worth the cost.

Your material choices for something like this are:
Nylon - ideal for bushings but not easily macineable
Acetal/Delrin - ideal and machines nicely
UHMW - good but doesn't machine very well
HDPE - probably too soft for what you're doing
Teflon - not for what you're doing


Give me the rough dimensions of your piece.

Have you considered an over-the-counter bronze bushing instead of dicking around with this?
Thanks for the clarification.
Old brains can still soak up a few
things. Just knew there were
options out there that are better
than nylon.
 
Like hearing that BOING when you take that little c clip off the distributor shaft and never see it again
 
Holley makes an adaptor for use on Mopars......?
Now if they made a variable ratio unit I would get that. My end to end throws (accelerator and kickdown) are equal with this set up ie full throttle full kickdown and tip in start of kickdown movement.

But it is not shifting and needs more pressure ie sooner which messes up the current ratio ie lever throw…… not sure how to fix that other than increasing the valve pressure in the valve body yukkkkkkkk
 
Now if they made a variable ratio unit I would get that. My end to end throws (accelerator and kickdown) are equal with this set up ie full throttle full kickdown and tip in start of kickdown movement.

But it is not shifting and needs more pressure ie sooner which messes up the current ratio ie lever throw…… not sure how to fix that other than increasing the valve pressure in the valve body yukkkkkkkk
I had issues with the kick down linkage when I first put on the Sniper and then got rid of the clunky linkage with a Lokar throttle and kick down cable set up. Now I can change the settings from the top end by moving the cable stop at the throttle.
One for the throttle and one for the kick down.

IMG_1607.jpeg


IMG_1606.jpeg
 
I am s
I had issues with the kick down linkage when I first put on the Sniper and then got rid of the clunky linkage with a Lokar throttle and kick down cable set up. Now I can change the settings from the top end by moving the cable stop at the throttle.
One for the throttle and one for the kick down.

View attachment 1913664

View attachment 1913665

I am trying to understand how moving from a rod to a cable enables the adjustment over a rod set up if I can also alter the rod length?
What I am asking is what is the difference in the two approaches? I have made a factory looking custom rod length that is correct and is set up correctly. I assume the cable would function the same way meaning the kickdown starts to move as the throttle cracks open and continues moving and ends at full travel where both end at the same time without binding or interfering with each other.
 
I am s


I am trying to understand how moving from a rod to a cable enables the adjustment over a rod set up if I can also alter the rod length?
What I am asking is what is the difference in the two approaches? I have made a factory looking custom rod length that is correct and is set up correctly. I assume the cable would function the same way meaning the kickdown starts to move as the throttle cracks open and continues moving and ends at full travel where both end at the same time without binding or interfering with each other.
The rod pushes the lever on the transmission back when the throttle is moving and the cable comes in from behind the lever and pulls it back while the throttle moves back. This cable has smooth movement and the adjustable cable end up on the top instead of trying to adjust the length of the rod and the angle over the back of the motor. Reverse operation in this case makes it easier to control.

IMG_0652.jpeg


IMG_0653.jpeg


IMG_0632.jpeg


IMG_0633.jpeg
 
The rod pushes the lever on the transmission back when the throttle is moving and the cable comes in from behind the lever and pulls it back while the throttle moves back. This cable has smooth movement and the adjustable cable end up on the top instead of trying to adjust the length of the rod and the angle over the back of the motor. Reverse operation in this case makes it easier to control.

View attachment 1913734

View attachment 1913735

View attachment 1913736

View attachment 1913737
Smoother I can understand. However, it’s still a one-to-one ratio, correct?
 
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