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Loose Steering

bing69

bing69

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When I bought my 69 Road Runner several years ago, it was a project car. The steering wheel had 6-8" of play and it leaked bad. I sent it to a rebuild shop in Mo. After re-installing it, it didn't leak anymore, but I still had the play and it would auto steer far right. I've got the auto steer figured out. Gear box is tight to the frame rail. When I turn the wheel back and forth, the pitman arm doesn't move at all. Loosing the nut and tighten down the screw straight up from the pitman arm hasn't helped. The screw is as tight as I can get it. There's no binding when turning. I just can't get rid of the play. I'd hate to pull the gear box out - what a pain. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Well if there is no play in the upper shaft and coupler and the box still has that much unresponsiveness at the output there has to be a box issue. Are you setting the play according to the FSM? The box has to be centered when making this adjustment.
 
bing69 said:
When I bought my 69 Road Runner several years ago, it was a project car. The steering wheel had 6-8" of play and it leaked bad. I sent it to a rebuild shop in Mo. After re-installing it, it didn't leak anymore, but I still had the play and it would auto steer far right. I've got the auto steer figured out. Gear box is tight to the frame rail. When I turn the wheel back and forth, the pitman arm doesn't move at all. Loosing the nut and tighten down the screw straight up from the pitman arm hasn't helped. The screw is as tight as I can get it. There's no binding when turning. I just can't get rid of the play. I'd hate to pull the gear box out - what a pain. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Did the rebuild shop warrantee their work?
Mike
 
Have someone help you and do a thorough inspection. If the wheel is tight on the shaft, it has to be the coupler, box, or steering linkage. Move the wheel back an forth with the engine not running and observe the parts. It sounds like the shop just resealed and didn't rebuild the steering box. A possibility.
 
When you adjust the steering box by loosening the nut, and turning the centre screw, alan head I think. Turn it snug, and back it off a small amount. The main shaft on some steering boxes get quite lose. Not many shops can, or know how to fix.
I had mine fixed, and I adjust every year. BUT, if I had known about another steering box, I would have ought it. We wondered all over to the Arctic and back. I discovered most camper vans did the same. Your steering box may be different than mine. But it does sound as if you also have some warn other parts.
 
When you turn the wheel can you see any movement on the gear box side of the coupler in the shaft into the gear box? If not it could be the coupler has been apart and not put together correctly. I managed to put the shoe pieces into a coupler sideways. I somehow sensed I hadn’t paid attention putting it together and took it apart discovering my error right away. If the shoes are installed like that it leaves quite a bit of room in the housing for the shoes to move as the shoes are slightly rectangular.

Sounds like you have tightened the lash screw down pretty tightly which would normally give you binding when turning the box past the center point. That kind of makes me think they left something out or left in a badly worn part when putting the top of the box back together.

Only other thing I can think of is the collapsible steering column and the pins have sheared. But I don’t think that can cause this issue,
 
pnora said:
Well if there is no play in the upper shaft and coupler and the box still has that much unresponsiveness at the output there has to be a box issue. Are you setting the play according to the FSM? The box has to be centered when making this adjustment.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you mean by "the box has to be centered when making this adjustment."
 
I want to thank everyone for the replies. Go Mopar! I think I'm down to pulling the box and sending it to Steer & Gear; expensive, but it appears they have a good reputation.
 
bing69 said:
Not sure what you mean by "the box has to be centered when making this adjustment."
Click to expand...
The box has minimum lash at dead center. Lash (play) increases in both directions off center. So when adjusting lash the box needs to be centered.
 
Last edited:
I got my cuda and the previous owner had my T/A box rebuilt there, was about 3 years prior to selling it to me, leaked like crazy. I would just get a complete borgeson setup if you can afford it, and forget about it, then it drives like a new car. technology has come a long ways in 50 years. i've installed them in 2 different cars waaaay better, unless its a complete numbers matching bad *** car, is the only reason I would keep an old mopar steering box that needs replaced.
 
If you don't want to go the Steer and Gear route, PST is selling some decent manual boxes. I have used several of them. Lifetime warranty, and I believe they were cheaper than getting your OEM rebuilt rebuilt. Just mentioning this because I have had to send a couple boxes back to Steer and Gear after their rebuilds failed.
 
So far my Steer & Gear box I ordered 1-1/2 years ago is performing fine. Not many miles but so far so good. They were also cooperative - they took my old manual box as a $200 core on a power steering box. Also I needed a different orientated valve port on top for clearance and they swapped that out for me.
 
bing69 said:
Not sure what you mean by "the box has to be centered when making this adjustment."
Click to expand...
Read the FSM.

Screenshot 2025-09-11 210402.png
 
Hopefully by next week, I'll be able to give my feedback on the Lares box and pump I bought for my 67 wagon. Doing a plethora of upgrades from front to rear. Rear is done now as of yesterday. Later today I'll get cracking on the front. Bushings, joints, rods, arms, t-bars, k-frame, sway bar, brakes[ larger], box and pump. The Lares box and pump are new, not reman. Little bit faster ratio than the stocker and not as spendy as Borgeson.
 
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