I found my original washer bottle pump. Wondering if it still works? Wheres my power supply……
1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......
- Thread starter Moparfiend
- Start date
My ORIGINAL Pentastar sad to happy….
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Bodaboom
Edging on visors done. I contemplated stitching but ended up with something much nicer I think.
One of the last few items left to do is now done…… not a big deal to most, but to me a significant milestone.
Kinda cool shot of the hood Plymouth emblem I just installed. This was factory for the 1970 Sport Satellite.
Hopefully this heat will break but here in AZ it really doesn’t. Not until mid October at best. But when it does I will slip out in the garage and try my new leak detection smoke unit to make sure I have no vacuum leaks. I can’t believe I finally broke down and bought this after all these years but there you have it.
Welp that didn’t take long. Found a very small leak but it’s in a really bad place. It’s in the intake manifold below the carburetor. It’s up under the shelf of the casting. There’s nothing else there so it has to be a casting porosity issue. I dealt with these in my professional life as I used to work with aluminum casting designs and manufacturing.
The question is…..is this a problem? It’s a very very small leak probably not much more than a pinhole if that. Not much volume of air can get in there. I suppose I could probably plug this with JB weld. What are you thoughts guys?
The question is…..is this a problem? It’s a very very small leak probably not much more than a pinhole if that. Not much volume of air can get in there. I suppose I could probably plug this with JB weld. What are you thoughts guys?
JB weld was my first thought. Easy peasy
True but I cant even see it. It’s up under the shelf. I suppose I can just smear it.
Leak successfully repaired! Doubt it caused any issue but I feel better and dam this machine is awesome to have!
Ordered and still waiting for my correct wiper motor power drop resistor. The installation is complete…… like new!
I received the new factory correct ballast resistor today. It measures 0.5 ohms. And this is the original grounding strap cleaned off. You can see the serial number on it.
Also, very importantly, this resistor is IS IS IS part of the parking circuit internally to the motor. Without this ballast resistor, the wipers will not park!
Also, very importantly, this resistor is IS IS IS part of the parking circuit internally to the motor. Without this ballast resistor, the wipers will not park!
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Wiper assemblies on and aligned.
The kickdown (KD) assembly is based on the original set up. With an altered intake manifold and carburetor it’s a challenge to get the original rod type of KD set up correctly. This is why many people go to a cable set up. I like the stock rod type linkage and wanted to keep it that way.
The issue/resolution I had was two fold.
1. I didn’t know that there is inherent play/slack in the KD lever at the trans lever moving through the KD linkage all the way to the carburetor. This means no initial trans throttle valve engagement until you’re well past 20-40% of the KD travel. This slack needs to be taken out!
So just having the KD set to move just as the throttle moves is not how I have determined it should be set up. You must take out most of this slack in the KD so it engages sooner/faster! It’s nuanced, but important the kick down valve needs to be asserted right away and that slack prevents that from happening.
2. The stock set up the ratio is very close to one to one 1:1. However with a 2-4 barrel carb conversion and subsequent intake manifold change the ratio is off quite a bit and more like a 4:1 from what I found on my set up. This requires a ratio change and subsequently a longer horizontal KD rod and a longer vertical rod to accommodate this ratio change.
There are several ways to accommodate the ratio change. One can use a longer lever from the transmission arm, or changing the ratio at the bell crank upper or lower. I’m modified the upper bell crank because it’s right there and you can get at it easily.
Most importantly one must to alter the ratio. To do this I made an extension on the bell crank. It’s extreme but thats how far off it needs to be when the slack is removed and hence total travel of the KD is reduced compared to the total travel of the throttle. They must end up matching or else one will bottom out BEFORE the other which is no bueno.
I simply made an extension bar for the upper bell crank with two bolts so it’s not a permanent modification. You can clearly see this in the pictures below to the right.
To accommodate this ratio change I used a 2” spacer on my vertical rod and a custom/longer horizontal rod that I fabricated. Note the horizontal bar needed a specific bend in order to clear the air cleaner assembly during actuation.
Now it works as it should. As soon as the throttle starts to move the KD starts as well. The slack is gone and they both reach full throw together! The shift points are now correct as well which is the proof in the pudding.
At some point for aesthetics I may make the modifications at the lower vertical bell crank and get the upper bell crank back to stock.
The issue/resolution I had was two fold.
1. I didn’t know that there is inherent play/slack in the KD lever at the trans lever moving through the KD linkage all the way to the carburetor. This means no initial trans throttle valve engagement until you’re well past 20-40% of the KD travel. This slack needs to be taken out!
So just having the KD set to move just as the throttle moves is not how I have determined it should be set up. You must take out most of this slack in the KD so it engages sooner/faster! It’s nuanced, but important the kick down valve needs to be asserted right away and that slack prevents that from happening.
2. The stock set up the ratio is very close to one to one 1:1. However with a 2-4 barrel carb conversion and subsequent intake manifold change the ratio is off quite a bit and more like a 4:1 from what I found on my set up. This requires a ratio change and subsequently a longer horizontal KD rod and a longer vertical rod to accommodate this ratio change.
There are several ways to accommodate the ratio change. One can use a longer lever from the transmission arm, or changing the ratio at the bell crank upper or lower. I’m modified the upper bell crank because it’s right there and you can get at it easily.
Most importantly one must to alter the ratio. To do this I made an extension on the bell crank. It’s extreme but thats how far off it needs to be when the slack is removed and hence total travel of the KD is reduced compared to the total travel of the throttle. They must end up matching or else one will bottom out BEFORE the other which is no bueno.
I simply made an extension bar for the upper bell crank with two bolts so it’s not a permanent modification. You can clearly see this in the pictures below to the right.
To accommodate this ratio change I used a 2” spacer on my vertical rod and a custom/longer horizontal rod that I fabricated. Note the horizontal bar needed a specific bend in order to clear the air cleaner assembly during actuation.
Now it works as it should. As soon as the throttle starts to move the KD starts as well. The slack is gone and they both reach full throw together! The shift points are now correct as well which is the proof in the pudding.
At some point for aesthetics I may make the modifications at the lower vertical bell crank and get the upper bell crank back to stock.
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I think I’m going to consider my restoration complete finally. I got the car in 2017 and probably started my restoration in 2019 that makes the restoration process six years long. It’s been a long strange trip, but I’ve enjoyed most of it and it’s been good for me most of it and I’ve learned a lot about Mopar bodies. I once was a Chevy guy now. I’m just a car guy. I do have a few remaining items, but none of them pressing or part of the restoration in my mind. Here’s my final list.
1. Washer switch or wiring isn’t yet operational it’s either the wiring or the switch, but I haven’t had time to look at it and it’s been too hot to care.
2. My brake booster works fairly well, but I would like to change it out for a Bendix correct unit at some point.
3. Paint the engine, be the same color as the car from sublime green to orange no rush though.
4. Paint the hood orange but I am kind of digging the black so not sure what to do at this point.
5. Rebuild the AC box and or install classic auto air unit. Again, no hurry.
6. The rear leaf strings are the original leaf springs and they may be fine. I’m not sure, but that may be the last thing I do.
Here are some current pics:
1. Washer switch or wiring isn’t yet operational it’s either the wiring or the switch, but I haven’t had time to look at it and it’s been too hot to care.
2. My brake booster works fairly well, but I would like to change it out for a Bendix correct unit at some point.
3. Paint the engine, be the same color as the car from sublime green to orange no rush though.
4. Paint the hood orange but I am kind of digging the black so not sure what to do at this point.
5. Rebuild the AC box and or install classic auto air unit. Again, no hurry.
6. The rear leaf strings are the original leaf springs and they may be fine. I’m not sure, but that may be the last thing I do.
Here are some current pics:
More final pics
For comparison if you haven’t been following. The only perfect panel that I had was the hood. And what’s funny is it’s the only part I didn’t use because I wanted the air grabber. And also my concept was to make the Sport Satellite a real Sport Satellite with a 340 in it. Why call it “Sport” with a 318??
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Thanks for the likes and encouragement! Means a lot Bill!
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