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1974 Dodge Coronet Custom Sedan 225 L6

Put the tank back under the car, with a new fuel level sending unit. This time the correct one. I needed to adjust it a little bit to make it fit better. I've checked it of course with a multi meter and the gauge at the dash is working. I put the float in a bucket with water to check if it wasn't leaking and I filled the tank a little to make sure the seal of the sending unit wasn't leaking. And of course new hoses from a quality brand.
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Funny, those look like Maine jack stands to me
Travis..
 
Today I did the differential rebuild. I installed new bearings for the pinion and the carrier and of course a new oil seal and nut.
Since I'm only replacing the bearings, I reused the 0.69 shim.

Tightening the pinion nut was a bit of a challenge.
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Bearing preload is spot on, 30 in lb or 3,5 nm.
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Backlash is also perfect.
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Now, I think the gear pattern is acceptable, allthough the coast side seems a bit off.
Drive side looks great though.
These gears are used of course, so increasing the pinion dept might help on the coast side, but it will also affect the drive side in a negative way because the pattern is pretty deep already on that side.
What do you guys think?
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My diy workplace.
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Look at this! I've put on a bit more resistance when turning the gears and that gave a much better pattern.
Looks like I can continue the build now.
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Looks good, make sure you have enough side bearing preload
 
Today I could finally put the axle back in place.
Next up will be the brake lines.
It took some extra time since the new pinion seal was leaking, so I replaced it while the axle was still in the shed. Better then when it's under the car.
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Installed new cunifer brake lines and the rebuild drive shaft with a new transmission seal.
And toughed up the paint here and there after I took these pictures.
I guess the rear underside of the lady is ready for the season.
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Found these very nice stainless steel wipers and she's allowed to wear these nice dark blue historic licence plates.
These little things really make a lot of difference I think. Note the white turn signal lights, very unique I think.

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New battery, mounting and wires.
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And took her for a drive finally!
You guys think fuel is expensive in the US? 1 Gallon premium fuel is about $12,- here.
Ah well, rear axle's doing fine, engine runs smooth.
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Maus said:
New battery, mounting and wires.
View attachment 2018614

And took her for a drive finally!
You guys think fuel is expensive in the US? 1 Gallon premium fuel is about $12,- here.
Ah well, rear axle's doing fine, engine runs smooth.
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Great work on the car.
You really shouldn't need to put premium in that engine. Should run fine on regular fuel.
 
Don Frelier said:
Great work on the car.
You really shouldn't need to put premium in that engine. Should run fine on regular fuel.
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Sorry, but I have to disagree with you on that.
The regular E10 fuel (in Holland) will eat the rubber hoses, carburator and fuelpump gaskets within a few months.
Sure, the engine will run fine, but this fuel isn't suitable for classic cars. You will experience huge problems or even fire overtime.
All classic vehicles overhere run on E5 or E0 fuel. No ethanol.
 
Maus said:
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you on that.
The regular E10 fuel (in Holland) will eat the rubber hoses, carburator and fuelpump gaskets within a few months.
Sure, the engine will run fine, but this fuel isn't suitable for classic cars. You will experience huge problems or even fire overtime.
All classic vehicles overhere run on E5 or E0 fuel. No ethanol.
Click to expand...
Well you said premium which here means higher octane not necessarily ethanol free.
I run ethanol free in my classics.
But I also had an 83 gran fury 225 which I ran regular 87 10% ethanol for like 7 years and 50,000 miles.
Never had an issue.
 
Next up, restoring the bench. It's no fun driving a car with a worn out seat.
And I'm so very happy I found (well, actually the wife did) the missing seat emblem, hidden in somewhere in the fabric.
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You're right on the seat. The one in the wagon essentially has a hole on the drivers side. On the to do list down the road.
 
While I have to wait for the bench seat to be restored, I pulled the leaking radiator to have it overhauled and I will also replace the leaking head gasket and I will overhaul the cylinderhead.
There's a vacuum leak somewhere and I suspect the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. There's also a stuttering sound coming from the exhaust at low idle.
The head gasket is leaking oil on the outside really bad. I've checked the torque of the head bolts and they were good at 70 ft.lbs.
I did a compression test before disassembly (with the engine hot and the throttle wide open) and the readings were really good. I also checked the valve lash and this was also good. The sparkplug on cylinder no. 1 was a bit black. I suspect worn valve guides.

Radiator upside down. I hope it can be fixed.
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Engine seems to be in good shape!
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Lots of sludge
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Before al this, I did drive it to a really big meeting just for USA cars here in Holland. Well, 1700 cars is big for Dutch standards.
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This was interesting. Found a piece of wire inside the coolant duct or gallery.
I learned that this is a core wire for the casting process.
More than 8 ft long!
The exhaust valve stems and guides have too much wear. I'll probably take the head to a specialised workshop.
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