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My FY1-1970 Super Bee-4 speed, A31-project!

SuperBeeFan

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
4:51 AM
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
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Location
Beaverton, Oregon
It’s been some time since posting previously. Sorry for the long posting!

As life would have it, several medical issues, sold old house and the wife had mercy on me and bought a new house with a 3 car garage, double deep one side for the and my tools and extra parts!

Finally, opened up some new presents today from Mr. Glen-Ray Radiators❤️❤️❤️!

Received the Max cooling Radiator and the completely redone heater core from the . Bob and his brother offer top notch customer service and a wealth of information! He even gave me the correct information for replacement fan and shroud, that will replace the old used aluminum radiator. The packaging was top notch too!

I stepped up for the extras cost and know that not everyone can afford it, but I just decided to cut a couple of things out of my weekly routine and saved it. You won’t regret it! I recommend Glen-Ray Radiator’s

I also have some time this week and been working on removing rusted trunk floor pan section and will be welding in new replacement section.
The rear frame rails and drop down extensions are pretty good for a West Coast car. Also will be prepping it for paint and have plenty of parts sitting on the metro rack in back with parts! Plenty of work still left to do! I have better available time to work more on our project and will definitely be seeking additional advice and assistance from those who have been in this position before.

Here’s some pictures.

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Finally back at the project from visiting relatives. To help keep the dream flowing while away; ordered several items from “521 Restorations” quality parts! But back at trunk pan replacement, pictures included.

1) fuel tank, 3/8” fuel sending unit, fuel tank pad, J-bolts, stainless steel tank straps.
2) Reproduction 4 speed console shell.
3) Reproduction interior black arm pads set 4.
4) Reproduction windows crank & handles set.
5) Reproduction N96 RamCharger hood/seal.

From the “Parts Guy” in Florida Quality parts!
1) OEM rehabbed-tested, non-AC heater, defrost & fan control unit.

See my pictures of cleaning up ground down back solid frame rails. Then covered surfaces to be welded with tape to protect for spray through weld coating. Applied rust preventive coating inside and outside the solid frame rails. Have drain holes cut out and in process finalizing figment of 2 piece trunk pans to be drilled and welded. Off for a week vacation in the San Juan Islands Pacific Northwest. More to come, following up soon!

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Yes, my wife didn’t find it very funny
I had to remove the seat to pull the heater box to send out the heater core to be redone by Glenn Ray. When I got the Bee, it had original 70 charger buckets and not coronet buckets. I kinda like the Charger buckets better! If I have to redo the OEM seats, believe the bucket seat frame is the same and I would have to get Coronet foams and seat coverings? Thoughts?
 
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Here’s a picture of prehole drilling fitment of the driver’s side pan late last night (11PM) before calling it quits.

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Back to working on the Bee again and final trimming and alignment of 2 piece trunk pan.
I’m welding this weekend. The pictures don’t include all the prep holes drilled and cleaned up tonight. Getting there 1 day at a time!

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Okay, I’m done with the pan and will post some pictures shortly. I decided to refresh the leaf springs. I pulled the drivers side off and got a new replacement leaf springs rebuild kit from Classic Industries. Cleaning and stripping all the old crud off and recoated with VHT toolbar and suspension paint. This is going to be a driver.
My question (stupid) is when back in the day, (80s-90s) after removing any suspension components shackles plates and shocks, then reinstalling hardware-U-bolts, just remember tightening to FSM specs. But don’t remember using any liquid locking blue or red? I want to make sure everything stays together? Do I use it or not? This sounds pretty bad, but just remember wanted to get the car back cruising and didn’t really worry much about that then?

The car is just going to be a really clean cruiser and some shows, but not anything close to point judging or strip racing?

Any feedback?

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Well, finally completed rebuilding the driver’s side rear leaf springs with a little information help from member RT SE 440, when they posted about rebuilding theirs! Thank you RT SE 440. Here’s some pictures of the finished product. I made sure the straps were tight and in alignment.
I’m hopefully I can get installed tomorrow and the passenger side removed and repeat

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Today, installing the new rear flex brake line to replace the old one and a new rear brake distribution block on the differential. The first picture is of old hose and block. The new hoses are quality parts “Made in USA” From a place called “Brake Hoses Unlimited”. I will install the two additional front disc caliper hoses shortly.

Also, installed the driver’s side leaf springs, making sure that they were seated to the differential plate and not to do final tightening-torque specs after the wheel is on and the weight of the whole car is on the springs!

Is this the correct Torque specs for the Hemi A31 performance axle package 1970 B-Body?

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So, I’m working on this between my work schedule in the morning shift then after my afternoon shift. I get about 3 hours between to work on the Bee; of course some at night after work and weekends.

Today I was able to remove old brake shoes and hardware and wheel cylinders toasted out. I have the early emergency brake lever and have new hardware and wheel cylinder and. Then couple of pictures of inside backing plate cleaner.

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Also, does anyone have a diagram or actual picture of how this bracket spring should be placed correctly? Please see the last picture. The spring has like a dogleg ear

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The dogleg ear was tucked into the reddish pink spring from behind this picture. Not sure if this is the correct placement of the dogleg spring wire?
Thanks
 
The dogleg ear was tucked into the reddish pink spring from behind this picture. Not sure if this is the correct placement of the dogleg spring wire?
Thanks
Everything looks correct except the self adjuster cable spring. It's 180 deg out. Flip it around and the bottom loop goes over the leg in the exact same spot. You have it on there correctly, just flip it over.
 
Everything looks correct except the self adjuster cable spring. It's 180 deg out. Flip it around and the bottom loop goes over the leg in the exact same spot. You have it on there correctly, just flip it over.
Hello Nxcoupe!
Thanks for your review and response. So, if I understand you correctly, please see my two included attached pictures. I believe the first one shows how it is positioned now, but you are stating the the second picture is the correct way? Thanks, I needed this information!

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Finally, the passenger side rear leaf springs rebuilt, passenger KYB shock( I removed the KYB stickers off for a cleaner look). I installed and 8.75 brake hard lines installed. Passenger brakes installed and a big shout out to fellow member Craig / mobileparts, with the old school REAL brakes. Craig is an asset to this community and others who need OEM type parts that are hard to find anywhere! He’s knowledgeable and I urge you to contact him and he follows through!

I’d also like to thank all the other members who have helped contribute feedback during this process. It’s been a tremendous help.

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This is my next encounter starting tomorrow morning. The new stainless steel fuel tank, new sending unit, new stainless steel fuel tank straps, J-hooks, new filler neck and stepped up to get the .090 heavy duty masticated rubber fuel tank pad!

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