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Like above - go thru everything, make sure all lines work, check pads, drums and adjust per the FSM. Then you know what you have. It doesn’t cost much to freshen up drum brakes. If you don’t like the way it is after everything is in working order, then you can make a decision on discs. If you...

I bought a Dr Diff front disc system (not the ones you’re looking at) and it came with dust shields, so I put them on

Prop valve adjustment process from Wilwood. Make sure those drum shoes are also adjusted correctly

When I put manual discs in the front (10” drums in rear), I also used the 15/16” master cylinder from Dr Diff. Before my rear drums were adjusted properly, my pedal was low and soft. I would make sure the rears are adjusted properly first and all air is bled out of the lines. You didn’t mention...

I’m running the PST greaseable pivot shafts also. 1 year so far and no issues.

Does that also mean if you are adjusting the ride height with the car on the ground, that you should loosen the strut bolts and the LCA pivot points? My manual does not say to do that.

You shouldn’t need to remove the torsion bar adjusting bolts - just loosen them enough so they are free to move. For the front boots, I would make sure they are not stuck to the bar and will let the bar slide- you don’t want them giving you extra resistance and maybe damage them.

In-line tube for my 65 fit well.

Looks like the ‘peddle’ really hit a nerve :lol:

Didn’t see that in the post. I don’t think the factory used different length bolts from side to side by design.

The way I read the Abody thread is the visible thread length below the LCA was different from side to side - not that the overall length of the adjuster bolts were different side to side. That means the bolts were most likely adjusted differently from side to side.

either way, it worked out. It was just funny that I thought it was clever, but who knew brake fluid ate foam earplugs.

I had to change the front driver brake caliper on my wife’s car yesterday because one of the pistons froze. I wanted to remove the old caliper, bring it to the store so I could take care of the core charge in one trip and not have to go back later. It has a banjo fitting for the brake fluid and...

In addition to the above, You probably should adjust all four brakes per the FSM to get to a known starting point.

I’m not familiar with the different years and features. I’ve got a 65 with a 65 kframe. what is a double shear mount? What is a captured style? With what I have, would there be a benefit to eliminating the play in idler arm itself? Seems like it would eliminate 50% of the play?

Thanks guys. I’m guessing it’s this kit? How was the installation and how does it perform?

Anybody know if anyone makes a roller bearing idler arm for a 65? Google doesn’t turn up anything that I’ve found. Nothing from Bergman, Moog, PST. I see it for 65 C-Bodies but not B.

65 Sat- I came across this post last week because I have the same issue on my 65 Belvedere. Everything you ran into, I have as well. After all was assembled, do you think you could have used a 9” long end link instead of 9.5”? 9.5” seems like it would leave about 1” of thread exposed after...

Thanks

Thanks - forward position it is!