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New quality bearings with new, matched races are the best bet.And importantly, use the proper grease and pack the bearings properly.

Here it is. Right from the Factory Service Manual.

Follow the FSM. Simple. Who knows more than the people wwho built the car. Page 841 from the 1972 Factory Service Manual for Chassis. Service Manuals – MyMopar

Original since 1969? Time for New bushings and ball joints. The upper ball joint is threaded so you will need the proper socket. It can be rented from some auto part stores, even free if yoiu buy your part there. Perfect example of why you should have a factory sercvice manual. Free downloads...

And still only $9.99 back then.

Conversion kits uSing factory Mopar components work a lot less problems. Mustang II brakes are used in many aftermarket kits only because of the similar bolt circle. Ford fuey !

The hubs are too small for a "Green(ball bearing) big enough to survive the side load stresses of turning/steering, especially since the majority of the cars weight is over the front axle. This shows you the loading superiority of a tapered/roller bearing as opposed to the Green-ball bearings.

First, here is the link to download a free FSM. https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/ Next here is a reprint on how to set it.

If the brakes are 24 years old, the drums would be last on the things to worry about. What does the brake fluid look like ? Do any of the wheel cylinders leak or even work ? Master cylinder ?

You had to get information from somewhere to do this conversion. Was it an article, friend, or what. If this is based on a GM system and parts, have you looked at a GM FSM to try to diagnose the problem ?

Don't practice on the car you will be driving. New lines are not that expensive and will last your lifetime. No wondering if you did something wrong. Go braided steel on the flex lines as well. "Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten."

Going to poly on the lower control arms are subject to noise. Most go rubber on the lowers and poly on the uppers. The torsion bars are 50 years old. Well past design life.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Even a magician needs to look at a crystal ball.

We haven't seen anything but a picture of a M/C. You say you used a 90's style disc brake setup. What does that mean ? You can't just mix and match brake parts. And the rear brake adjustment is how you adjust the height of the brake pedal. Loosen the rear brakes and the pedal will go to the...

That fluid level is with new brake pads and the rear brakes adjusted properly. As the pads wear down, the level drops. If you just keep filling it up you won't know how worn they are.

Basically a full suspension/steering swap to coil over springs (or strut suspension), electric assisted rack & pinion steering. Modern tires/wheels. Seats etc... 1967 $3k car, 2023 $40k car.

Has this been a problem for 5 years ? Were the hoses and brake fluid changed 5 years ago or just recently ? Trying to find out what happened to cause the problem.

What do you mean exactly by "best?" Price? Stopping power? Factory setup? Aftermarket? Daily driving ? Weekend auto cross? Wheel fit selection ? Here is a standard go to from long ago, using all Mopar factory parts. https://www.allpar.com/d3/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html

Of course you haven't given us any details or pictures of your car. Is it a stocker ot Pro-mod ? What size are the tires and wheels ? What is the ride height set at ? More details = better help.

Sometime you can get air bubbles trapped in the calipers. And old fix is to tap the calipers with the bleeder open to force any bubbles to the top.