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Oil pan and trans pan are on the same plane as the crankshaft... 3 degrees down is a good starting point.. It'll probably be fine, if not a small shim would nail it... FWIW I've got a few tools for measuring the angle but lately I'm really liking one of these...

Call Booster Dewey & see what he says... Actually I think Dewey retired & his son Steve is the guy doing the work these days..

Yes you would still vacuum, but if it's being applied to the wrong port it won't do anything...

An hour later $214K... Awesome..

Poke around in this thread... 68-70 B-body factory a/c vacuum line routing I'm thinking (wild *** guess) you might have the vacuum being supplied to the wrong port on the switch...

The Chinese version rarely offers much if any assist... And yet finds a way to make the pedal feel soft or squishy... Rebuilding normally makes the booster work to it's max performance so I doubt it will reduce the effectiveness.. Might give them a call and ask... What about pedal ratio? Does...

Those boosters were never stock on any vintage cars... First application I'm aware of was a mid 80's Mazda... The real Japanese version isn't a bad piece for lighter cars but the ones sold by CPP are Chinese... I'm guessing the booster your thinking of is the old Midland Ross piece... Common...

Yup, with regular flashers polarity doesn't matter... LED Flashers it does matter... the wire positions need to be flipped..

Degas is very different from an overflow... Coolant actively flows through the degas tank and it's pressurized... Overflow/recovery tank is outside the normal coolant path and lives at atmospheric pressure...

Yup, something is moving, initially it takes away the free play, as the torque increases the engine shifts further and reaches the point the clutch releases partially..

If your using the stock A/C compressor the base plate won't clear it without modification... If you use a Sanden compressor it can be done, tight but it fits..

My GF Coral regularly gives a friends cat (Felix the angry angry cat...) insulin shots. Did I mention he's a really angry cat...

There's nothing wrong with a car with a 20 paint job... I prefer to drive them vs show them... But I've done enough block sanding to know the basics & if a younger guy is willing to do the bulk of the labor I'm willing to guide him... If I don't have the needed skill I know plenty who do, just...

Post a picture of the booster... Please tell me it doesn't look like this...

Lets talk about chiggers... blood thirsty little parasites...

Adjuster is for 11" brakes... 10" brakes..

Well that helps... If you need to replace the pinion seal you just torque the pinion nut, you don't need to worry about a crush sleeve allowing the bearing reload to change...

Did he use a crush sleeve eliminator? Or a crush sleeve?

It was securely bonded to the steel... But it wasn't even close to an invisible repair.... The first time I saw the car I knew there was filler on both front fenders... I just didn't know why.... Pretty simple really if you consider beating a dent into a previously straight panel then filling...

If the pushrod is extended to far the brake pedal will be right up to the top and the drums will have drag if you try to spin them... You shouldn't need to slam on the brakes, backing up & hitting the brakes fairly normal should cycle the adjusters... I would do more of that and reevaluate....