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  1. khryslerkid

    Intake manifold

    Sit the manifold on without any gasket (clean and dry) and see how it fits. Should be flat without any gap on the lower part where it meets the heads.
  2. khryslerkid

    Identifying a 383

    "D" is 1968. In 1968 they started stamping the Vin # on a pad located under the starter on the pan rail. Moparts on the Web - Main Index
  3. khryslerkid

    Heard a low pitched not happy sound

    That only made a low pitch sound? I guess it could have been worse. Looks like you know your way around a 727.
  4. khryslerkid

    67 440 mechanical fuel pump low fuel output...

    Did you check your pushrod length. Lots of instances where the pushrod is worn down and it doesn't activate the pump.
  5. khryslerkid

    How to destroy a 440

    :xscuseless: (But you knew this was next)
  6. khryslerkid

    How to destroy a 440

    Nick's Garage had an engine like that on one of his episodes.
  7. khryslerkid

    Dana 60 Outer Bearing Races "Cracked"

    Any hammer marks/scars on the stud end of the axle?
  8. khryslerkid

    Isky ductile iron rockers

    I definitely would have used those if I would have known about them. :thumbsup:
  9. khryslerkid

    Isky ductile iron rockers

    These are Cranes but I "modified" the hold downs and also used spacers, washers and shims. I don't remember the clearance needed anymore between each set.
  10. khryslerkid

    If you're depending on zinc to protect your flat tappet?

    I do say! Back in the day Kendall was the only oil that would quiten up a noisy primary chain on several 750 Hondas that I owned. Also my FIL had a 500 CX with noisy valves from the factory. They were adjusted correctly but noisy. Used Kendall and the noise was gone. Another example was my FIL...
  11. khryslerkid

    If you're depending on zinc to protect your flat tappet?

    I've been using Penn Grade, formerly Brad Penn, formerly Kendall. Remember Kendall? Green oil from back when almost ever engine was using flat tappet cams. It's the exact same formula without any changes. That's why I'm using it.
  12. khryslerkid

    Oil pan plug washers.

    Here ya go Dude What type of oil pan drain plug gasket is best
  13. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Looks like it's stamped 1964 also
  14. khryslerkid

    Solid Axel or IRS?

    You're talking Funny Car numbers!
  15. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Like most taypered roller bearings there needs to be some preload. On these early taypered axle housings the one side is fixed with the bearing retainer. The other side uses shims under the bearing retainer to apply the correct amount of end play. The thrust block makes the connection between...
  16. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Most people go the opposite direction, open rear to a limited slip. You have to be different :rolleyes: But it brings up some questions and facts that most don't know about. I never would have thought installing an '63 or older diff into a '64 or newer housing would be a problem. But now we...
  17. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Cass returned my email last night. I asked him what changed in '64 to allow the same length axles to be used for both open diffs and Sure-Grip diffs. "In 1964 Chrysler installed a round, 1.5" long thrust block in open differentials to match the length of the thrust buttons in the sure-grip."
  18. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Oh, I guess that would be easier
  19. khryslerkid

    differential compatibility

    Yes you would need the longer axles. Maybe the 1/8" washer would work. I guess that would require removing the spider gear pin to remove the block for easy access for welding. The thrust block is used to butt the axles up against for proper end play. Only way to not use the thrust block is to...
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