Factory Rear Main Seal Retainer - Potential Problem

[Charlie Brown]

Changed the oil pan on my 426W for a max wedge unit. Previous pan / crank seal was leak free. After the pan switch, there was a small leak. Leak then got larger to the point that it needed attention. I suspected the oil pan gasket. After a gasket change and a visual check, I noticed that where the oil pan bolts thread into the factory rear main seal retainer, that one of the nubs / capped end which receives the pan bolt is broken through. I suspect that the oil leak issue I was having is related to this. I probably used a bolt that was a little to long and "popped" the end of the cap. Is it possible to use a specific sealant on the bolt threads to stop the leak?

 

[DanielSlocum]

Try "The Right Stuff" after brake clean and compressed air liberally applied.

 

[R413]

It might be broken through inside to the crankcase and sealing the threads may not fix it.
Worth a try.

 

[Dave6T4]

You can buy a billet retainer from Mancini's. It is a much better piece than the POS factory original. These have cured a couple of main bearing seal leaks for me. Plus, it has new threads.

 

[khryslerkid]

Sometimes the gasket will leak over the retaining bolt holes. I learned to fill those cap bolt holes full with sealer, even/ flush with the pan rails.

These are not filled enough.

 

[dvw]

I agree fill the cap bolt hole recess. White Teflon (PTFE) sealer will seal the thread easily. I use on any bolt that goes into liquid, oil or water. Works everytime. Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE 4oz
Doug

 

[Geoff 2]

Yes this, ^^^^ Teflon Thread sealant. I have had two aftermarket rear seal retainers. Both varied in dimensions from the factory retainer & the seal would not compressed enough. Use factory retainer. There is nothing wrong with it.