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1. Make sure you don’t have spark by disconnecting one plug wire, put an extra plug in it, ground the threads of the plug to a good bolt (eg alternator bracket) & have a buddy crank it over to check for spark 2. Test for continuity (ohms) across your ballast resistor with the wires going to it...

First, check that all the screws/bolts on the lock & striker are rock-solid tight (they can get loose). Then PB Blaster the heck out of the lock mechanism. Finally, grease it up really well (I used red grease, but I’m not sure that’s the best choice?). Then as said above, trial & error. Also...

I searched for an old factory one that worked & found one

In general, it seems the aftermarket sending units aren’t accurate

First, what car, year, rallye or non-rallye dash? I've not done it, but you can get a headlight switch out (with great difficulty) using the "brail method" up there by feel, and yes, you're gouge your forearm. I would do everything I could to diagnose the switch while it's still installed if...

Found an aluminum one for $85. Saw a factory one that just sold on Ebay for $60, although most look to be about $100. You might check for a used pump (to get the pulley) on this site. You might also check a salvage yard (maybe a C-body pulley). "Maybe" 440 Source?

My 2-cents? With a "stock'ish" motor anything inexpensive that has a decent fit with 1-5/8" primary tubes...Heddman, generic Summit/etc or whatever. Just ask around here for fit, especially with power steering and/or clearance with idler arm/pitman arm. Even if you have to put a small "ding"...

what car?

If you get stuck, I've used some before where I bought some off the shelf that were the correct width, removed the blades and cut them down (length)

I've had good luck at local parts stores

You need to tell us if you've got a 10.5" or 11" clutch since the bellhousings & inspection covers are different.

I don't think it "hurts" to have the scoop offset

I'm not 100%, but I'm with Cranky on this one

"Newbie looking for help with trim" - Just say hello & then tell her you have a nice Mopar (couldn't resist) - GREAT advice above (for cars that is)

Does the "wrench" piece look like an "L" with two loops at the bottom half of the "L"? Is it attached at the very bottom of the long piece on the vent window frame? If yes, then there is a metal stud (about 4" long) that attaches at the bottom of the door (& extends inside the door) with a big...

Nailed it..... you are correct sir. I've just been working on my vent windows. 66-67 = same as convertible 68-70 & 68-70 hardtop/coupe is the same.

I don't know your answer, but those clips "look" like windshield trim clips for a 70 Roadrunner....so "maybe" search for windshield clips & see if they're the same? Maybe try searching "trim clips" at RT Specialties and see what you find?

Here's my 2-cents... 1. I would suggest you look for aftermarket wheels (17" or 18") since there aren't any 14"/15" performance tires available (at least no z-rated, soft compound tires that I'm aware of) 2. Keep the car as low as possible (turn down torsion bar adjusters & consider 1"-2"...

Hmmmm…...if you turn the driveshaft, how much before the wheels move? Have you verified that the u-joints, tailshaft bearing/seal and rear end pinion seal/bearing are in good shape? No movement when wiggled firmly side-to-side?

Yep, I've seen some aftermarket automatic shifters lined up really, really well inside the factory consoles. I've even seen a couple that were bolted to 2"x 4" wood blocks to mount them (wood hidden by console) that looked great once completely installed.