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You can test the accelerator pump for correct operation before you put the top of the carb on.

They are ordered separately - $12 I think. I believe those are original Hemi carbs. They will not have curb idle speed screws that hold the butterflies open - they use the middle 9/16" third idle adjustment in conjunction with the mixture screws. 11/16" accelerator pump diameter.

I also used Mikes to source rebuild kits and I also purchased tuning kits jets and rods. Really good well labelled parts and very prompt shipping. You can use the carb numbers to get the correct parts on the website.

You are correct on both questions/points. There are 4 booster to firewall mounting fasteners as well.

You could buy or borrow one of those hand vacuum pumps to allow you to find the problem without running the engine.

Provided you get a seal between the metering plate and gasket you wouldn't need the support plate and gasket.

The thin plate and it's gasket need to be retained. The reason Holley fitted it was to add support for the main bowl gasket where the body has the relief cast in to it for the power valve. Clearance for the float is another issue. I don't know for sure but you may need notched floats.

From what I remember there is a TOP and BOTTOM - but it has been a while since I did my callipers.

I think Mega Parts has them.

The slop/clearance is deliberate. See how the back edge is squared - to limit the point of contact as the load applied is in one direction. They will also be case hardened to slow down the wear. Greasing the connection up is required.

I understand the Pertronix unit does not use a ballast resister - so a bit odd there. I assumed from your first poste it was gone or bypassed.

I was curious so I had a look on You Tube. There are a few videos about the subject. One was posted by TiredIronVideos and his one covers most of the issues and procedures with a few good tips. One thing I remember now is keep the sealing faces (the ceramic white thing)of the mechanical seal...

No problem - good luck. Do an update if you can.

I don't know for sure .. Remember this is talking thousands of ohms. It is pretty easy to get false readings with high resistance measuring. I have only bothered to measure the primary winding resistance to ensure compatibility. Best plan is try another good coil - that will put it to bed. I...

In that case it may be something new or you have introduced a problem when you changed the manifold - hard to say. Maybe you damaged an ignition lead when you did the change???? Maybe the manifold is sealed OK but something else around it is the problem. Not to hard to try another coil or...

When I was an apprentice we used to fit rebuild kits to water pumps. I remember a hydraulic press, a few flat plates and some various size pushing bushes was all that was need. You do need to be careful of the mechanical seal. Perhaps there are some videos on You Tube of the process????? Older...

Did the backfire start after the intake was fitted?

I agree - not shiny. Would not be a good idea to get sun strike from your own steering wheel. The spokes on my GTX wheel are electroplated and then welded to the un-plated hub.

Nothing abrasive my original 68 GTX steering wheel is a dulled chrome finish. You may just have to live with it on an original wheel.

If the lifter is not machined correctly I am not sure the coating will make much difference - they will most likely still fail. Even if they don't wipe out the lobe, the modern one's leak down very fast, noisy, and no coating on earth will fix that. The quality control is rubbish when they are...