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You may be able to get them locally. I recall for some reason seat belt bolts even in modern cars are imperial threads.

For two to go at the same time it is not a coincidence. The same reason would have caused both failures. I wonder if the cams lobes had a little bit of taper ground on them causing the lifter to try and rotate and overloading the tie bars? There should be no real rotating force that the tie bar...

If the tie bar is operating at an extreme angle due to a very small base circle on the camshaft or not enough valve spring pressure the tie bars can fail. Could also be **** just failed. The tie bar does kind of look a bit thin? Bad luck my friend I hope it is not to bad when you get it apart.

Run the motor for a short time - maybe 3 or 4 minutes at a time until you get to the required break in time.

The headers will get quite hot and possibly glow red even if the timing is close. If a little off they will glow red for sure. If it is starting and running OK just break the cam in in bursts until you can get to the point you can idle for a short time.

Yep you are OK to remove it will cause no problems.

Yes you are right part of the old choke set-up.

Good question. If they did I guess it would not be the 20-30 minutes at 2000 RPM deal. It would be interesting to hear from anyone who worked at one of the engine assembly plants. I did hear once about a factory (I think it was Ford) that turned each the engines with an electric motor. This...

I saw this post and had a look at IMM. They do look pretty good.

On the tapers nothing but a dab of anti-seize on the threads is a good idea.

It is hard to know if it would fail. Could last a lifetime or it could fail next weekend - no one really knows. That place is a high stress point of the axle - every bump and pothole will be working away on that nick. That is were the problem will come from not power or axle twisting. But if...

It may take years but it could eventually shear off $200 dollar axle or $75,000 car. I know what way I would go.

I am pretty sure that switch goes to ground to get the light to operate. If you remove it you may get a fluid leak - some of them have an o ring seal. Easy to test that switch in place - either an ohm meter or test light. I your case it would be grounded at all times to give your fault. If no...

I would check the shifter adjustment before getting too carried away. I have seen a lot of people get it wrong. The 4 forward gears are H pattern - with the stock shifter. They don't shift like a modern gearbox but they are pretty good if all parts are working correctly.

The synchroniser rings should allow smooth shifting in any gear no matter what the speed or engine RPM - within reason. The only noticeable detent/lock out should be reverse gear. The forward 4 gears should be able to be selected easily without noticeable hang-ups. There are quite a few...

No it should go smoothly in to third and fourth. Shifter out of adjustment or worn out?

On the earlier cars this light was also operated/lighted by the parking brake switch. Is that operating correctly?

Normally that was the filtered air inlet for the PCV system. The nipple connected to the air cleaner housing. It was filtered so all the crap would not enter the motor. I think the 3 nipple ones did have a float bowl connection and fuel tank vent connection point but they were maybe 5/16 tube...

Are you possibly flooding it with too much fuel?????????????

I bought one from Mega Parts several years ago - it has be fine and the heater gets nice and warm. It is worth getting them tested by a radiator shop before installation.