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Ok, thanks for the lead dvw!

What are y'all's experiences using hose vs. Hard lines for trans to cooler/ radiator? What about hose to hard line at the fittings? Thanks.

By the way, using an aftermarket trans dip stick so how many quarts these take? I filled the torque converter before assembly.

LOL. Ok, good to hear. Thanks

Have a new 727 hooked up to motor, in the car. Have not run it yet. Filling it with fluid, only three quarters so far. The fluid is running out the tail shaft around the rear spline. Drive shaft not in place. This isn't normal, is it??

I don't recall seeing any instructions in the bolt kit. I will double check when I go back out to the car this weekend. Thanks!

I wonder what is the purpose of the ARP lube? Is it for racers who will disassemble often?

Have ARP flexplate to crank bolt kit for 727 auto to 383 B block. Came with ARP lube. Do I use ARP lube instead of blue locktite? Do I use one or the other or both?

Interesting you suggest that because that is what I was trying to do then it sprung out from one of the vise grips and shot outa sight! I don't want to test my luck with this again so gona try to cut into it then twist it to get a better grip on it an get it out. Keep in mind this isn't one of...

As dumb luck would have it, I bent a piece of thick wire and scraped around in the only direction it really could have gone and waddya' know, I snagged it and pulled it up to the hole. I have a magnet on it to keep it up there untill I get back out to the location next weekend. Gonna bring my...

Out of the car but sitting on jack stands getting ready to hook the transmission onto it and get it back in. Not really wanting to pull it apart to fish it out. That rear, driver side hole is shallow and not much room to reach into the block like with the other freeze plug holes.

Well, replacing freeze plugs, all going well then of course the last one got sideways on me and dropped into the block. Rear driver side. Can't see it or get to it. Tried with a telescoping magnet but no luck. Guess I'm gonna have to leave it in there. I'm hoping it wont to cause any blockage...

The alternator I am using is a one wire alternator that says 'internal regulator'. Does this mean I do not need to include a voltage regulator elsewhere?

I am trying to set up a Mopar electronic ignition system (part. no. 440-427 for 383, 4-pin). Going into an old 50 Ply. Coupe. This is all new to me. Does this system require an external voltage regulator or starter relay? The instructions mention neither. If so, how should they be wired into...

Thanks guys. This is very helpful.

Anyone know the length intake bolts should be? The motor I have, has a mish-mash of bolts on rocker covers, manifolds, etc. I'm buy new bolts and don't have original fasteners on the motor to go by. Thanks

Right. That is kinda what I am concerned about. I am trying to get this motor running on the stand so I can get it set up in the car, then planning to rebuild it. I may try making a bracket first to mount on the head. I'll post pics, IF it works. LOL

I'll get a pic. this weekend when I am back out where the car is. The hole is 'hogged' to the extent that it looks like someone tried to drill it out. It is oblong at this point and the bolt is snapped off about 1/2 deep and I can see where they tried to drill into the bolt. If I try a heli-coil...

Looks like the alternator bolt hole on the front of the pass. side head of my 383 is hogged out with what appears to be the broken end of the holt about a half inch deep. Anyone have any luck repairing this with a heli coil, ez lock or Time Sert? Also, thought about making a bracket utilizing...

I like the Teflon tape idea before trying another cut. Anyone know if the basic white Teflon tape will be ok used here without problems from oil or heat?