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I agree - not shiny. Would not be a good idea to get sun strike from your own steering wheel. The spokes on my GTX wheel are electroplated and then welded to the un-plated hub.

Nothing abrasive my original 68 GTX steering wheel is a dulled chrome finish. You may just have to live with it on an original wheel.

If the lifter is not machined correctly I am not sure the coating will make much difference - they will most likely still fail. Even if they don't wipe out the lobe, the modern one's leak down very fast, noisy, and no coating on earth will fix that. The quality control is rubbish when they are...

I did a little searching on the internet and a business called Chicago Carburettor has posted exploded view drawing of the original Holley outer carb showing the gasket and support plate. IMO the Promax jet plate would also need the support plate and gasket. It may have nothing to do with your...

I have never used what you have. The thin plate and grey gasket should fit any carb - can't see any potential issue. They would also need the 4160 secondary style gasket. I have fitted a few Quickfuel ones but never got instructions.

They would also be required with the Promax jet plates that was what I was meaning.

Those parts pictured are secondary metering plates. Did you refit the thin metal plates and thin gaskets to the carbs? They are required to support/seal the metering plates were the body of the carb is relieved out for a power valve. That could cause it to run rich.

When you say Promax base plates - do you mean metering blocks??

From what you have written - this carb set-up once ran good - correct? If so start with the float adjustments on all three carbs. Check the carb air bleeds are not blocked. Test and see what has happened - same, better?

Two carbs is bad enough to sort out an issue but three you really need to know your stuff.

Better to keep it. You will have trouble calibrating either the cruise or WOT mixture. The PV is the way the carb jet size can be right for cruise and when the vacuum in the manifold drops the PV opens and the PVCR adds extra fuel so the carb is rich enough for WOT operation. If you put bigger...

I had a bit of a search around and if the part is missing it appears they are reproduced by AMD. Roseville calls them "Front Bumper Lower Shield" good picture as well. $150 brand new.

Check post #4 Davies Craig - above the pics. If you get a fan look for one with a big powerful fan motor. Sorry I do not have any pics of the sheet metal plate. Someone else will be able to post one hopefully. Someone listed one for sale a while ago.

On the Plymouth there is also a wind deflector plate that attaches to the front bumper and irons. Not sure about a Dodge. This directs the air when at speed to go through the radiator rather than "spill" under the car. You may get airflow problems at speed without the plate.

Yes 440 motor but stock. One fan does the job with zero problem. It will only operate at traffic lights never runs while the car is on the highway. I think the fan is rated around 2200 CFM. Position the fan at the top part of a downflow radiator core - this is where the water is hottest going...

It is a Davies Craig an Australian manufacturer.

I have the stock belts and pulleys - mounted a 16 inch pusher fan on the front of the stock 22 inch radiator. Not enough room behind the radiator even with stock pulleys. With no fan or shroud makes it much easier to change the oil filter and work on the front of the engine. Made two brackets...

What is the vacuum reading with the vacuum to the booster blocked off?

Assuming no leaks and the vacuum source on the carb/manifold is correct - it should not affect starting of the engine.

I bought the gauge style but I cannot remember the part number from Year One. Works correctly. Use sealer not thread tape.