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74' Plymouth Satellite, 318 engine...Does anybody know the type or name of the wire connector that fits the 1/4" brass button on top of the oil sensor? I have no idea what kind of connector it would recieve...looks like a levi jeans rivet.

What constitutes the "core" of my front caliper? The reason I ask: The carriage bracket (for lack of proper term) is held to the rotor by 2 - 3/4" bolts, mine are not budging since 1974. Does the part store really want the whole mama jamma for a core exchange? I would hate to snap those off.

Ok, booster is out for 2 weeks getting rebuilt as are the front calipers and master cylinder. I bought a aftermarket proportioning valve that I am returning, I would rather spend more so that everything hooks back up instead of bending new tubing. Is there any benefit to blowing the lines out...

[QUOTE= "Get a service manual for your car. You can download one online for free and study up on the brake section." for free? where can I find this?

Pretty sure all is original. This all started with the rear system doing all the work, inability to bleed the front...until I pulled the plunger pin on the Proportioning valve. Once the p valve was "re centered", I realized the front pistons havent been working for years...passenger front line...

Thanks everyone! So, the sound of air "whooshing" behind the pedal is of no concern? They want 190.00 and 2 weeks to rebuild the booster and M.C. I cant seem to find a vac pump for rent. Yeah, fluid will shoot up and out of the M.C. when bleeding, so I assume the MC piston seals are not...

74' Plymouth satellite, 318, original front disk/rear drum. I dont have a vacuum pump to properly test my booster, suggestions? and here are my symptoms: 1. Got a whoosh or air hiss at the brake pedal. 2. Master cylinder reservoirs pressurizing when bleeding brakes. 3. At first, rear brakes...

well, I turned the e mail notification off, logged out, logged back in and turned it back on...I instantly got the B bodies newsletter, but still no email alert for your latest response...ha ha...sure we went to the moon in 1969. jk

Yeah, it's been this way for at least a year. I'm on computer and yes I've pushed that little button, cleared cookies etc. It's beyond me. Something is glitched...probably need to start a new account or something.

Ok. yeah. no room for pictures under the car. both brackets can be rotated up or down somewhat. Here is my mad scientist explanation diagram. The trans is a torqueflite. The bolt hole is "inline" with the torque shaft give or take a inch, or faces the frame bracket...if that makes sense. I have...

Yes, I'll get my son to crawl under...this forum refuses to send alerts to my email, so that is why my responses aren't very punctual. It will take a day or two, as the brackets are on the car and it's been pouring down rain...

I have yet to see the right unit for sale anywhere. fan control on left, heater/defrost on top, temperature control on the bottom...plastic mounting housing behind the dash panel cracked.

Alrighty then...Eldubb knows what I'm talkin about! Despite my resistance to learning, I actually get coloradodave's breakdown ha ha Thanks you guys!! I know this is off topic, but while I have your attention...my heater box post got no hits. Where can I find a heater box assembly diagram...

Thanks everybody. Every little bit helps. Like I said, I get the how on to change them out, it's the factory graphs that seem stupid to me...I just want to step it down a notch.

My 318 has always ran rich with this carb. Can anybody simplify my choice of adjustment kits? I get replacing the rods and such, but do I have to pull the existing kit out to identify where I am starting from? I'm thinking of assuming that it is the factory set up and then buying the next kit...

I'm hoping someone with a manual can help me. The flap or door that bypasses for defrost can go in 2 or 3 ways, thanks to a 1 screw, triangular bracket. I think I have it correct, but there will be grief if I have to yank the whole box out and start over. I cannot find a exploded assy. diagram...

Sorry no reply...I've been off for a while. The trick was this: the mounting bracket that houses the u torque shaft on the transmission side had to be "bent into a proper "Z" from it's straight 90 degree offset...making the bracket shorter, if this makes sense. If you are still working on it, I...

Besides having a incomplete schematic, my fuse box is not marked. cannot find a simple diagram that identifies each fuse. cant figure out the relation between the bulkhead connector and the fuse box...I'm making progress, thanks!

So, I dont know what to check next on the red wire voltage source going to the column turn signal switch...it's dead and my schematic is incomplete...it seems like voltage comes from blk wire going into the flasher and comes out red to the column harness. is that correct? if so, whats the next...