Search results for query: alternator bypass

Yes bypass the ammeter AND bulkhead connector for the feed into the cabin. Yes I read the MAD article. I read several threads on this topic but not all lol. I currently have a functional wiring harness and bulkhead connector. I even use deoxit on the connector. I just want a safe and...

Maybe you need to summon @Nacho-RT74 to weigh in. Since this is always a lively debate..... :popcorn: I also installed a nice new 95A alternator, but I still have 50yo wiring, so I have done the ammeter/bulkhead/underhood bypass' and run a voltmeter.

I’ve went completely over this thread again, learn something new everyday and ate some crow along the way. Some things have changed like the likes of led lights. With the led lights you no longer need to do the famous headlight relay upgrade. My LEDs on dim only pull a tad over 3 amps and with...

Are you running a high amp alternator w a lot of draw on it, stereo amps, fuel injection/electric fuel pumps, dual electric fans etc...? If not, no need to bypass ammeter. I did a full conversion so it's the same gauge, but the guts are a voltage meter. I have 120 amp alternator and a lot of...

The referenced difference in construction is exactly the plastic cluster frame of the trucks and the pot metal cluster frames of the passenger cars, as referenced in the Mad Electrical article. The plastic being much less tolerant of any heat generated by resistance at the stud head to ammeter...

I am thinking that fuse link was on its way out already and it was just time. The starter positive wire being off should have done nothing. The fuse link should never be larger with stock cab wiring. Maybe you have the stock black wire hooked up at the alternator, along with your bypass wire and...

The ammeter lovers will be in to tell you that you are incompetent and know nothing in a few minutes. :lol: I don't like the mad approach, however, IMO, the bulkhead should be taxed to provide power for loads requested by the cabin. The packard terminals in reality were not dsesigned to carry...

That would be considered a modified Chrysler charging system, then power connections can be made most anywhere between the battery and the alternator without the risk of overloading original connections/wiring, you lose the function of the ammeter however and the information it would provide...

I’m building a 1967 GTX for a customer and have a couple questions regarding the charging system. The car is a 1967 GTX, it’s a 440 non a/c car that is getting a Procharger and a FiTech fuel injection. We’ve relocated the battery to the trunk and have run 4 gauge wire from the battery to the...

I don't care what cars today have. Does our 60s car have the same electronics as a 2019 dodge pick up? NO so don't compare . So as you stated the only fuse , is the fuseable link on the engine side of bulkhead. You fry your fuseable link, the system is not dead, until you turn off your car...

Thanks. I’m looking to keep the ammeter and I understand bypass, etc. I think I’ve found my answers, so I appreciate all of the responses. For now I’m looking for a two field alternator with lower amps.

That's beyond my skill set lol I'm assuming you mean the fusible link that I have going from the starter solenoid and into the bulkhead. I can figure out which wire comes off the interior side, but if I get rid of it then I don't know how to get power to the gauge cluster. Unless I'm just...

Heat is caused by resistance in the system. Either the connection is not clean/tight enough or the current flow is more than the wire size allows. Do you have a greater than OEM alternator output? The wire terminal should go on the stud, followed by the washer and nut. I am not familiar with any...

As I mentioned, I don’t see a reason to remove the existant black wire on bulkhead and simply add the extra one if is still in working order. My idea at least is keep the main splice getting power from both “legs” connected to the power line, the one from the amm which gets the parallel path...

I only have like a 1000 miles on this harness. After I tried to crank it a couple times there was smoke came out from the car around where the starter relay was at. First thing I noticed was the fusible link was melted open about an inch and it was super hot. All I know it happened when the...

This post shows a version of the bypass and they loop the black alternator wire with the new wire on the ammeter black terminal. So in this case I guess the accessories are still fed but not sure. More to digest. Thanks for the help and making me think!!! Some considerations about the...

*throws hands up* I've put a new alternator, voltage regulator, and starter Relay on this car and still don't have a charging system that works. I have 12v on the ignition side of the VR with the key on and 12v on the FLD side when the car is running. There is 12v at the alternator terminal. The...

Yeah. I mainly want to know if the initial surge on the gauge is a problem before I go full Nacho ammeter wiring fix. I’m pushing 60 and expect to see my gauge follow the turn signal blink at a stop. It’s part of the experience since that’s all we had back then.

It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how...