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Yes, very much so, do as said above with this load and distrbute the load from the starter relay big terminal to things like the water pump; the original bulkhead connections will not take the added load of things like the water pump. (And fuse the wiring to the new loads like the pumps.) You...
The headlight relay kit removes headlight load, except for the minor current needed to trigger relays, from your bulkhead and headlight switching items (switch, dimmer and wire).
The bypass wiring re-routes the charging system away from the bulkhead and ammeter. no more in and out through...
I am doing the madelectric ammeterbypass on my 69 bee.only question I have is how to make the splice with the two 10 gauge wires on the firewall side to the fusible link?cant seem to find a crimp connector that I feel is any quality to tie all 3 wires together.thanks for any input.
The starter relay was changed Monday along with the ignition box and plugs, but I guess it could be a defective new part. The no start for 15 minutes could be too much initial timing, but the first time it happened, I loosened the distributor and backed off the timing a little at a time and the...
Here is what I did on my 63. At the firewall bulkhead the 2 hot wires of one from the alt output and the other is the hot feed from the battery both bolt to the terminal sticking thru the firewall. They bolt up with a 5/16 head bolt. I jumped across that with a 10 gauge wire to bypass my...
First time I have done the MAD Electrical upgrade on one of these cars. Here is a diagram of the before and after wiring. Replace the existing #12 wire to alternator with a #10 and a #14 fusible link. Use #12 red and black to bypass the bulkhead connector. I cut out and reused the existing...
I'm doing the same basics but the battery up front and my stereo amplifiers in the back... every accessory has a load rating and if I supply more than it needs at peak surge everything is happier and should last longer... but I have patience and time on my side... and have studied hard on the...
I did the bulkhead bypass shown on Allpar. Basically just running a wire parallel in the harness running from alt to the starter relay. Takes most of the load out of the bulkhead connector.
The ammetergauge isnt accurate anymore but its something I'll live with. Didnt want to drill out the...
Thanks Will, been through your entire thread before and somehow I forgot about that conversion. since no one makes a ready to bolt in volt gauge for my dash I am going to give it a try. just need to find an amp gauge to use (don't wanna chop mine up) and see if I can make it work.
As far as the...
This is my '65 Coronet convertible. It has a 440 with Mopar rocker covers and air filter, Edelbrock intake, Holley 750 and MSD. I'm not sure of the build on the engine but it's healthy. Brakes are power assisted with front discs and dual circuit master cylinder.
I have rewired the front end...
Here are the factory diagrams you can use to trace your existing wiring and figure out what you're looking at. I think the top pic is your horn relay, I'm not sure what the light bulb is for (where it goes), and I think the bottom pic is a time delay. There are different ways to bypass the...
Pretty cool set up/idea on the shroud! Hope it turns out for you.
I have a smaller amp single wire in my bird (100 AMP). You need to run a ground wire for that alt. Anywhere to chassis is fine, or to engine if you have a good ground from battery to engine. Your other wire would be the power...
That may be a bit overkill, but doesn't hurt. You'll have a warm fuzzy that the wire from the Batt to the SR won't burn up on you ever.
Couple things to bring up...The Relay driven headlight system like Eric brought up is a great idea. It does make a big difference. I would recommend using 14...
That's a huge help thanks Will! I'll probably do like you did and run my alternator straight to the battery. What amperage breaker would you recommend? (Yeah my alternator is a 140 amp) And at the ammeterbypass, should I solder and heat shrink or is a butt connector fine? I'll dig through your...
Are you talking ammeter or voltmeter? If it still has the factory ammeter, I'd bypass it and put in a voltmeter. Having an ammeter is like having an idiot light instead of an oil pressure gauge.....
So I am replacing the complete wiring harness for my roadrunner and am having a few issues. First of all, the vendor for year one didn't separate the wires correctly so it doesn't fit in there great but i can live with that. So here goes, Originally my bro owned the car and had an electrical...
Hey no problem Speedfreak/Tallhair....Glad to help. I used 150AMP CB and mounted it under the battery tray (out of sight). I would recommend at least 175 or 200 in your case (depending on what gauge you select- 4ga 175, 1/0 200ga). My Circuit breaker is not an auto reset, so if it pops you'll...
Amp Gauge
it's your amp gauge i'm pretty sure i had the same problem 1972 Charger you need to by pass it or replace it every thing runs thru the amp gauge shunts.
The greatest problem with an ammeter in the instrument cluster is that all of the car's current passes through it from the...
i recently did the mad bypass in my duster and it cured a whole host of problems including my charging problems. i bypassed the ammeter guage and added a volt gauge. i also bypassed the bulkhead and added new fusible links. here is the link to the artical, there are two pages . when you get to...
I didn't bypass the ammeter. I ran the correct 16 gauge fuseable link and 10 gauge, but eliminated the blade connections on either side of the bulkhead connector.