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On a factory stock charging system with an ammeter, should never add loads directly at the battery. Headlightrelays are a good idea, but the lamp load needs to be on the alternator side of the ammeter. If not, the loads are just shifted from the lighting circuit to the ammeter/related...
You're getting a lot of great feedback. When I watch the video and watch the clock the entire time, it looks like the clock stays stopped until the moment you turn the key back to the off position. Is that correct? There could be a situation where the starter relay and the start's solenoid lock...
Nice. I would leave it just as you have done and never look back. . F--k the Ammeter. The next improvement would be to bypass the alternators bulkhead location and get it fused to the starter relay battery terminal. Then get a headlight bypass kit with relays. With those being done your loads...
...dash, below the instrument cluster. It gets inputs from the headlight switch and dimmer switch. The motor itself has internal stops that are set by the factory.
My relay didn’t work well with the headlightrelaykit I installed so I converted to a Bosch 5 pin relay.
What problem are you having ?
I would go with a headlightrelaykit. It takes a big strain off the headlight switch and provides more voltage to the headlights. I’ve done this on 2 of my Mopars.
How bright are the dash lights on you 67 GTX after doing the headlightrelaykit modification? The same or brighter? Did the modification eliminate the issue of the dash lights dimming when coming to a stop and then brighter when accelerating?
62 Dart, American Auto Wire full harness/fusebox/mega fuse block/horn relay/dimmer switch/headlight switch.
Bought a mini starter and a Denso alternator.
AAW wiring diagram below, everything mentioned is installed.
Stock ignition switch has BAT, ACC, SOL, IGN1, IGN2.
Pink IGN wire powers MSD...
My fleet by-pass took the charge wires from alternator through the firewall to the ammeter and from the ammeter back through the firewall to the starter relay. The bulkhead was by-passed. My ammeter remains in the circuit and fully functional. Crackedback’s kit was headlights only.
Received my headlightrelaykit today. Anyone thinking about ordering one, send your request to crackedback. You can not build/find a better kit for less money.
So after a bit of a break and while I'm still waiting for my dash pad to arrive I went and installed the new headlight wiring harness I bought thru Year One and manufactured by M&H.
Then I put in the long splash shields that go right up front.
Passenger side.
And the drivers side.
Finally, I...
I used a ARC switch panel to drive water pump, fans, fuel pump, oil accumulator solenoid. The stock taillight and headlight harness were modified (no firewall plug). The rest is wired with rolls of wire and relays purchased seperately. In addition to the ARC fuse block a secondary new style fuse...
GMP440:
The lighting system in my car was terrible when I got it, had to re-build almost the entire system.
I decided to add the headlightrelaykit and do it all at one time.
I replaced all the bulbs with LED's, except for the headlights, those are (4X) new sealed beam.
Most of the bulbs were...
Hello everyone:
I just installed this @Crackedback HeadlightRelayKit on my '67 GTX. Amazing difference in the headlights now.
My lights used to be really dull, now I can drive safely at night, super bright.
One thing I would suggest: If you don't know how old your headlights are, it's worth...
Well, I just installed the headlightrelaykit from CrackedBack and discombooberated my ammeter
so I'm ready for Halogens! Aint no way no how I'm gonna be puttin them thar things on my car!
So THERE!