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Roadlamps are the foglights on E body cars. They are not part of a standard HL relaykit. The OEM harness runs the markers/turns on your car.
My kit is standalone from the OEM harness and does not touch the bulkhead. No cutting or splicing anywhere. The OEM low beam headlight plug is used...
I have "Crackedback" headlightrelay upgrade kit already installed, by the way. I did not notice any change in the lights or electrical from how it performed before the installation. Not saying it doesn't work, the brightness and behavior of my particular lights seem to be the same yo me.
I suggested that the car is hunting for a ground and it is using the new harness to find one. It's not a ground issue with my system from what you wrote. This is a classic ground hunting situation similar to a marker light staying on when the switch is off.
This is the first and only 70...
I haven't done a mileage test yet. The last few days, I've been working on installing a headlightrelaykit made by FBBO member Crackedback. I had a few snags along the way but with some help, it all works as intended.
I did put in a clutch pedal UP-stop bumper.
It is an upper control arm...
Headlightrelaykits that are essentially plug and play.
There is a substantial increase in voltage at the headlight, increasing light output performance. Light output degrades exponentially with voltage input reductions. These kits also take headlight amp loads off the fragile bulkhead...
This is rules out the relaykit. If the wiring isn't connected to the switch there should be no voltage to trigger. Something is hunting as 1 wild R/T mentioned as well. It's leaking voltage from somewhere. I might suggest you start pulling fuses from the box to see if the lights go out...
...to make a couple of mods (ideas from other threads) to make the stock wiring more robust one of which is installing one of Rob's headlightrelaykits. I was planning to rebuild the stock alternator and while looking for rebuild kits I ran across the kit that the OP mentioned (except the 80...
I am trying to understand all of this and am not assigning blame. I simply do not know what is wrong and almost every that step that I make results in one thing: The headlights and doors worked perfectly fine before and now they do not. WHY is the question. Figuring out why is not so simple.
I...
Most LED light are not good. Bright doesn't mean much if it's sprayed all over the place.
I have customers that have a relaykit and GE nighthawks, some say they are better than a current vehicle headlight set up. Fancy or newer, doesn't guarantee better results. It's surprising how much...
My Mopar family, thought I'd put together a list of products that I have used on this restoration, since I'm not quite ready to be back to work on it.
Front and Rear fiberglass bumpers from Stinger Fiberglass/AAR Quality Fiberglass($184.00 ea)
All new seals, weather strips, and hardware from...
So if I understand you (and NHTSA), if your car came off the assembly line with sealed-beam headlamps, it must always and forever have a one-piece headlamp. It can never have a lens/reflector assembly with a removable bulb like most modern US-market cars since ~1986 and most Euro-spec cars...
...that the Siemens and Bosch are both quality parts. I also like the metal mounting tab on the Siemens relay.
I am considering the headlightrelaykit that FBBO member "CRackedBack" sells. Plug and play with no modifications to the headlight wiring.
On DodgeCharger.com, there is a thread about...
...And also my lights always dim when the idle speed gets below around 1200, I'm thinking the headlightrelaykit that member here, crackedback, sells might solve some of my issues??,