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Alternator options

I got the new alternator swing bracket fabbed up, and got it installed. Seemed like it fit pretty well; a little close to the head at the backside, but not bad all in all. Wired it up with a new voltage regulator and everything seemed to work..... too well. I was seeing as much as 17 volts when it came off idle. Wiring seemed correct, so I called my wiring guru. He had me feed the Reg straight from batt +. As soon as I did that, voltage leveled at a rock solid 14.4. So I wired in a relay to feed B+ to the reg when the key switched on. This seems to be working just fine.

All of this wiring fire drill was Sat AM.... I then loaded up and had the first points race of the season Sat. Afternoon. It was a thrash and I’ll probably go back and redo my rushed wiring.... but the car was rock solid Sat. Night! I ran the cooling system after each run and never put a charger on it.... it was just fine all nite.

I made 7 passes Sat night, all between 11.278 & 11.295. Went 5 rounds, bowing out in the Semis to one of my best buddies who posted a .017 package to put me into the beer cooler.

Great day for sure! The season has started, and Lemonwedge made the call in just the nick of time.
 
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I know this is a year old thread but............Doing searches I also realize there are literally hundreds of threads on alternator options and configurations and this topic had been hashed over and over and there are many great ideas and combinations out there with lots of success.
I am one of those guys that will be running minimal electrical loads but plan to make a couple of mods (ideas from other threads) to make the stock wiring more robust one of which is installing one of Rob's headlight relay kits. I was planning to rebuild the stock alternator and while looking for rebuild kits I ran across the kit that the OP mentioned (except the 80 amp version) and was curious if anyone had actually used it. My thinking is that if I am going to rebuild the alt why not squeeze a few more amps out of it. I know it can be discussed that with the relays/upgrades the stock amperage is fine or why not go to 100+ if you are going to do it at all but I am just curious if anyone has actually installed the kit with success. Thanks
 
I never did find anyone that had used that kit with any success. My system has been 100% solid since last year. Knowing what I know now, my advice is to not mess around with band-aids; go straight to the end game with a newer style Alternator. The bracketry involved was pretty easy, and has to be alot less difficult to figure out than the upgrade / rebuild kit.

pretty sure Hughes or Mancini (can’t remember who) sell a kit to convert to a newer Denso alternator.
 
The newermid 90s? Nipindenso alternators off from Dodge truck will bolt right in and use the standard 72 and up regulator.
Doug
 
So far I have been real happy with my 100 amp one wire alt from Power Master that looks just like a 70's Mopar alt. Bolts right up since its in the Mopar alt case. I have been happy with mine and I like that it looks like the original Mopar alt and bolts right up. Ron
 
On my 66 Belvedere, I run a PowerMaster 95a Round back alternator. My only electrical needs are my fuel pump, the MSD box, and twin fans (1600 CFM each). No radio, No electric windows, No headlight, No anything. I believe I am all set. Runs with only a slight voltage drop when I kick on the fans.
May i ask what rpm you are at idle?
 
May i ask what rpm you are at idle?
Are you a talking about ENGINE RPM ...or.....ALTERNATOR RPM.......as usual, the alternator rpm is 2.5x - 3.0x FASTER than the engine due to the sheave ratio. 1100 CFM fans nean nothing....what is their AMP draw, either single or combined total. The fuel pump draws only 5-6 amps: the MSD box consumes ~ 4-5 amps. You really do not need as big an alternator as you've been told or think you need.....a connected load study would explain requirements including 10-15% safety factor.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
 
Are you a talking about ENGINE RPM ...or.....ALTERNATOR RPM.......as usual, the alternator rpm is 2.5x - 3.0x FASTER than the engine due to the sheave ratio. 1100 CFM fans nean nothing....what is their AMP draw, either single or combined total. The fuel pump draws only 5-6 amps: the MSD box consumes ~ 4-5 amps. You really do not need as big an alternator as you've been told or think you need.....a connected load study would explain requirements including 10-15% safety factor.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
engine rpm =P
 
Are you a talking about ENGINE RPM ...or.....ALTERNATOR RPM.......as usual, the alternator rpm is 2.5x - 3.0x FASTER than the engine due to the sheave ratio. 1100 CFM fans nean nothing....what is their AMP draw, either single or combined total. The fuel pump draws only 5-6 amps: the MSD box consumes ~ 4-5 amps. You really do not need as big an alternator as you've been told or think you need.....a connected load study would explain requirements including 10-15% safety factor.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
So i run Sniper EFI 650, with the in tank pump, hyperspark, 2 spal 12" draws about 21,4a each (second fan dosent run that often) and Dakota digital that i dont know how much it needs. I have found a 80amp Denso for Toyota Land Cruiser on rockauto do you think that would be enough?
 
So i run Sniper EFI 650, with the in tank pump, hyperspark, 2 spal 12" draws about 21,4a each (second fan dosent run that often) and Dakota digital that i dont know how much it needs. I have found a 80amp Denso for Toyota Land Cruiser on rockauto do you think that would be enough?
Still more amps than you need plus trying to adapt a TOYOTA (ugh) to A MOPAR installation. A Dakota Digital instrument package will only consume 4-5 amps. It sounds as if the original Mopar alternator will be just fine. Just source the cooling fans separately via relay control directly from the battery bus. Just my opinion of course......I'm sure the local "experts" will disagree........
BOB RENTON
 
Still more amps than you need plus trying to adapt a TOYOTA (ugh) to A MOPAR installation. A Dakota Digital instrument package will only consume 4-5 amps. It sounds as if the original Mopar alternator will be just fine. Just source the cooling fans separately via relay control directly from the battery bus. Just my opinion of course......I'm sure the local "experts" will disagree........
BOB RENTON
Making it fit is not an issue, i just want enough amps. I have a Tuff Stuff one wire for mopar but that pos dosent charge until 900rpm
 
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Making it fit is not an issue, i just want enough amps. I have a Tuff Tuff one wire for mopar but that pos dosent charge until 900rpm
What is a "Tuff Tuff" one wire alternator for Mopar. Never heard of that brand. What is it's rating ?? Or web site?? The published specs whould show it's output characteristics.....amps vs rpms (alternator)......you should check it out vs a blind guesstimate or someone's unsubstantiated hearsay........do your own do dilligence.........just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
 
What is a "Tuff Tuff" one wire alternator for Mopar. Never heard of that brand. What is it's rating ?? Or web site?? The published specs whould show it's output characteristics.....amps vs rpms (alternator)......you should check it out vs a blind guesstimate or someone's unsubstantiated hearsay........do your own do dilligence.........just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
Tuff Stuff
 
Look at post #7. Dodge truck Denso from the 90's. connects the factory wiring using the factory regulator. Bolts in with slight clearance grinding. Don't remember the part number as it was built in 2003. I did have to swap from a sepertine pulley to the V groove.
Doug
 
Look at post #7. Dodge truck Denso from the 90's. connects the factory wiring using the factory regulator. Bolts in with slight clearance grinding. Don't remember the part number as it was built in 2003. I did have to swap from a sepertine pulley to the V groove.
Doug
Yeah i know of thoes, the thing is tho that the bolt where the battery cable goes hits the head on my 383 so thats why im looking at getting a Denso for a Land Cruiser cause it has the bolt on the side
 
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