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The set on the far right clip the two halves of the heater box together. Not sure on the others.

I'm thinking blue as you have painted the thermostat housing blue.

I don't know if I have seen a specified clearance for your question. However the converter should be a snug fit in to the crankshaft register to centralise the converter. Maybe 1 -3 thousands clearance.

The shoes can be over adjusted too tight. Maybe new shoes have been fitted to worn drums????? Incorrectly machined for shoe width??? Is there are ridge that would contact the outer edge of the shoes??? The rear drums when cold should have little to no drag when they are cold. The short/long...

Another way I have done it on an already running engine. Warm the engine up and set the hot lash on number 1 cylinder. Don't move the engine and allow to cool until the next day. Measure the cold lash and set the rest to this setting. Takes a bit of time but it appears to work OK. A thousandth...

From what I know and have seen over the years camshaft manufacturers always specify HOT lash settings. The lash obviously needs to be correct when the engine is hot. Like Rick said if you want to set them cold depending on head material etc you reduce the gap used. I will usually warm up the...

The Bendix callipers are much harder to get parts for. If you need rotors it would pay to swap to the latter pin style IMO.

You can test the accelerator pump for correct operation before you put the top of the carb on.

They are ordered separately - $12 I think. I believe those are original Hemi carbs. They will not have curb idle speed screws that hold the butterflies open - they use the middle 9/16" third idle adjustment in conjunction with the mixture screws. 11/16" accelerator pump diameter.

I also used Mikes to source rebuild kits and I also purchased tuning kits jets and rods. Really good well labelled parts and very prompt shipping. You can use the carb numbers to get the correct parts on the website.

You are correct on both questions/points. There are 4 booster to firewall mounting fasteners as well.

You could buy or borrow one of those hand vacuum pumps to allow you to find the problem without running the engine.

Provided you get a seal between the metering plate and gasket you wouldn't need the support plate and gasket.

The thin plate and it's gasket need to be retained. The reason Holley fitted it was to add support for the main bowl gasket where the body has the relief cast in to it for the power valve. Clearance for the float is another issue. I don't know for sure but you may need notched floats.

From what I remember there is a TOP and BOTTOM - but it has been a while since I did my callipers.

I think Mega Parts has them.

The slop/clearance is deliberate. See how the back edge is squared - to limit the point of contact as the load applied is in one direction. They will also be case hardened to slow down the wear. Greasing the connection up is required.

I understand the Pertronix unit does not use a ballast resister - so a bit odd there. I assumed from your first poste it was gone or bypassed.

I was curious so I had a look on You Tube. There are a few videos about the subject. One was posted by TiredIronVideos and his one covers most of the issues and procedures with a few good tips. One thing I remember now is keep the sealing faces (the ceramic white thing)of the mechanical seal...

No problem - good luck. Do an update if you can.