Search results for query: *

This broadcast sheet was provided by the previous owner of my 66 charger, but doesn't belong to my car. I thought I'd throw it out here to see if it belongs to anyone. It's in decent condition and taped down to thin cardboard.

Why I have my "meat locker" room.

Nice! I’m routing my piston through the old factory hole and then mounting the gate lever to the actuator by way of wire with play in it. I think trying to mount it direct to the lever will tear off or break something while the wire allows for flexibity play when it rolls up and down. Mounting...

Nah, I’m happy with the way they look.

I'm describing how things are supposed to work, so maybe that's helpful to you by comparison. As pnora said, good luck with your plan. :)

This has been my plan for mine too, buy two linear actuators and fab my own. I realize that a kit can be bought, but what fun would that be.

I’m a bit lost on what you’re trying to describe. These are aftermarket electrical actuators that have a max extension but can also be stopped when you cut off electrical current?

Agreed. About 13 years ago, I looked into the cost to recore my '70 Charger rad, I think it was about $600 (CAD). I got a Champion aluminum rad for about half of that and it'll cool way better. It would probably cost a lot more nowadays, copper ain't cheap. It doesn't look stock, but that...

Same here. I'm anxiously awaiting release today of the newest, Executive Power.

Not sure why you are running such a small tire as 225/60 anyway. You have a lot more room in the wheel wells to fill up, get better traction, etc. Depending on what wheels you have, I'd go bigger.

none of that would survive in mine ^^^^^^^^^^

1970-74 RR “Plymouth” Emblem New $100

150.00 shipped to the lower 48 ONLY.......never burn another set of wires again. i set was installed pictures with the tape measure and the other new with spares.

I always have time for you my friend.

Those are pretty impressive numbers from a low compression crap motorhome 440 with a set of TF's bolted on! I should be well above my minimum power goals with the superior bottom end of the 69 motor.

I prefer the stuff in a can but I haven't eaten it in decades.

Not sure how this might help, but the FSM states *not* to bench-test the original pop-up headlight motor. The correct way to install it is to use the adjuster knob at the bottom to rotate the motor so the headlight covers are about halfway up (there are 2 marks on the motor that need to line...

And a corollary: If you pay peanuts, you get monkeys.