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They push into a twist and turn socket

I don’t have the wiring diagrams, but the brake switch has direct power from the battery (always hot). The “outbound” wired go to the brake lights & your cruise control. So….see if you have 12volts at all times going at not the brake switch. Push the brake pedal down and see if you have 12 volts...

Google search. It’s a small 1”x1/2”x1/4” (ballpark) silver rectangular electronic piece with 3 flat metal electrical connectors. It plugs not the back of the rally dash circuit board. It powers those 3 gauges and drops 12V power to 5V for the gauges. They fluctuate and burn out. Electronic...

Oh, I like that!

I'm not concerned with a purely original look. I took both the blue & brown wires, coming from the bulkhead disconnect (big bunch of wires & 3 big plugs on firewall), that go into the ballast resistor and splice those two together + also splice in the blue wire coming out of the ballast...

Can’t remember the number. It’s in the owners manual (online)

Your guy is correct

Kinda…I’m no expert, but I believe there’s a HEI conversion for the distributor that uses a larger cap. People on here have done that conversion

Somebody was selling a 70 clutch switch on this site about a week ago

Pink is always hot. As mentioned, check the fuse. If worse comes to worse, you can temporarily run a fused hot wire to where the pink wire connects to get your brake lights working

Dumb question…..don’t the older B-bodies have larger wires & connectors at the firewall? I think Big John over in c-bodies posted about this???

Crap! I don’t know, but my first guess would be super glue and align the needle far left when off???

My 2-cents? I've heard problems with newer orange boxes. The only time I burned up Mopar ignition boxes is when I pinched the main blue hot wire under the corner of the intake manifold (short). Having said that, I've personally run MSD boxes (no ballast resistor) for a long time now with very...

That looks great. What ran my 70 like that for years & years

I think he's got power into the ammeter, but no power out of the ammeter

I am no electrical whiz...but I think the answer to your question is "yes". Somebody jump in and correct me if I'm wrong, but I "think" the ammeter still acts as a main power connection, even with the "bulkhead wire/ammeter bypass" wiring modification. Unhook the battery first....then run a...

The Accel plugs are shorter, but still use the same hex

This has been INCREDIBLY helpful!!! If I'm understanding this all correctly (?) 1. Not all LED 1157's fit. I kind of figured this out when I looked at superbrightleds.com. They all had the same socket, but different sizes. 1" diameter sounds about right. superbright had one 1" dia. LED bulb...

I'm working on something similar right now. 1970 has a key/headlight buzzer...one buzzer, two functions. I have not seen them reproduced and the NOS ones I've seen on Ebay were about $125 range.

OK, I almost understand....if I run a whole fuse block to be hot during start/run off a signal from the + of the ignition coil, I don't need any additional relays for things I have running (fused) off that fuse block, correct? Whoa...it's a long list and I'm trying to add up amp loads... Engine...