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As a kid growing up he was my idol, Royal Rumble, Survivor Series, Summerslam, Wrestlemania, almost guaranteed to win every match, the 24" pythons will be flexing in Heaven...

Jimi Hendrix, Lowell George, JJ Cale, Waylon Jennings

How can anyone not like you Ron? You're one of the nicest guys on here, genuinely. I've never read anything you've written that I've taken as offensive.

It's not about stupid replies in this case Tom. I've noticed for a number of years Bob Renton going after Nacho, rubbishing everything he says. Nacho is a helpful guy and knows a lot about auto electrics and the practical way of fixing things. Bob is just a theoretical know-it-all. If it was...

Lemme guess - Bob "Just my Opinion of Course"?

Well that's what the nut and bolt in the slot does - it allows more force to be exerted on the kickdown lever.

I don't think it adds any adjustment, it just helps align everything. If you're nearly there then it's just fine adjustments from here. For mine I could not get it to shift perfectly unless I placed a small nut and bolt in the kickdown slot. I tried to eliminate it but I would run out of...

Here's a couple of photos that show how it attaches. You can see the spacers I had to use on the stud to get the alignment of the kickdown arm correct.

Yes I missed that. Mine looked similar to this:

It looks okay, but get a better return spring, 2 actually, an inner and and outer. Does it kickdown properly when you mash the throttle? You want the lever to start to move as soon as the throttle begins to open, and not to impede the throttle opening fully either, but there is fine tuning...

All of this is transferable to Australia, plenty of azzhole drivers here too. You can't shoot them though, have to throw a boomerang at them instead. For the tailgaters I like to accelerate while j-u-s-t touching the brakes, enough to get the brake lights on. It's a double whammy, they slow...

Why not put a socket on the crank bolt?

So you have to put up with that weather  and bugs too... I'd have thought it was too cold for them.

The engine will 100% have to come out. The left side is even worse for clearance with the steering box, brake cylinder, wiring etc. You need to measure everything carefully and put the chassis on a jig if possible. The radiator support stays on which helps keep everything square to a degree...

I don't disagree, I just didn't think of them as examples of 100% "function only" as they still had aspects shared with the base models e.g wheelbase, dash, headlights, tailights and so on - things that would be changed if it was a clean sheet starting point.

How do they fit the bill? They are based on normal production models and are therefore compromised in some ways. I know it's a Mopar forum but there are other brands out there. Needs to be something like a Lotus 7.

Could the carb be playing a part - heat transferring back down the fuel line? The reason I ask is the Edelbrock AVS2 is aluminium and will heat up quickly, plus the design has the bowls right on the manifold and it can suffer its own hot starting issues. Maybe an insulating spacer could help...

If you've got $20k to spend then don't buy the '70 Satellite for $10k, it's not worth it if you're inexperienced. You could find yourself in deep ****. Find a nice car for $18k-$20k - they are out there. As said above, the more models/years you can include in your search, the more luck you will...

It really doesn't look that bad to me. The OP seems pretty inexperienced so a lot of the comments he makes about the rust might be incorrect. Yes it's had a trunk leak but that's common. The spare had some water on it - so what? Doesn't look "eaten alive" to me. Frame rails look great, floor...

Dusk at the beach, dog enjoyed the trip.