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They had a key/headlight buzzer in 70.... Key buzzer was std, headlight buzzer was optional...

I own both the loaders shown in the picture, both are good... The ETS is really fast.. And easy..

Well.... They are Phillips screws... The company making them, the company that designed them is Phillips... Another new design that will hardly get used but which will sell lots of tools to the poor bastard that has to deal with them...

California uses permits as a way to build wealth... Theirs, not yours...

Awww Crap....

It seems the reproduction lines just don't have quite the same bends as OE, they are close, but not right... The two new short connector lines have rounded bends, the original parts have distinct crisp bends.. Lube sure can't hurt but back in the day it was never an issue...

That would be my approach as well, issue is his donor is A/C & the car being repaired is non a/c

If you need the top of the cowl and the flanges why not section in the whole cowl from the floor seam just above the frame rail to the windshield posts, shame that didn't get cut 6" higher...

Weird, I just opened the trim black link, it worked for me.... End of the day, it was just an Amazon link for a gallon of SEM Trim Black, about $165.... Then I opened the flaring tool, initially I got a white screen, took about 10 seconds & the tool popped up..

Greg, if you decide to try satin black use SEM trim black, it's the easiest satin black to care for I've ever used and if it gets a scrape you can touch it up easily, the stuff can be spot repaired and the repair is invisible...

I assume you had trouble with the old school manual flaring tool? Not the hydraulic flaring tool? Cheap versions of the old school tool suck, an Imperial Eastman works very well if used properly, but there are tricks you need to know... The hydraulic type in my experience works very well...

I've had an Imperial Eastman since the 70's, It's always worked well but it's getting worn out... I like the style KD suggests but often I'm doing a flare on the vehicle where there's no chance of mounting in a vise.... I've used one like Carl & KRE Auto suggest, it worked well for me...

Couldn't agree more...

It happens, thing that sucks the most, you have free time to do those things you wanted to do but now's the wrong time to spend money.... Good luck finding another opportunity..

Someone hooks you up & you refer to him as a fairy..... Harsh.... Congrats just the same....

Gonna need to join our convoy........

The top tacks to the header, rear "main bow and the rear area tack rails.. The second & third bows are tacked on the sides to the top pads.... check here... https://robbinsautotop.com/convertible-top-frames?srsltid=AfmBOorG6H398BhTNEAg-JFjzX0IO4N1v1nxEXIczX2q_v7pKli0nZZm

Really? Sorry no.... It's good to have money but it's far from the only thing that matters in life... Who would even say something like that?

I didn't say it would increase pressure... I said it could have a firmer pedal, reason being a smaller hose will have less expansion... It's a know effect of hydraulic hoses... There's a reason why as hose diameter increases the number of wires used to create the hose increases....

Loose those... They don't complement the styling of a Charger... The VN510/Rambler looks good, probably to modern for a Charger but still a good look...