help! My frame rails have scoliosis

[1 Wild R/T]

I gave you the exemption....... I separated the carpenters from the fags with a crowbar

It's pretty easy to separate carpenters from fags.... Much harder to separate two fags...

 

[eldubb440]

It's pretty easy to separate carpenters from fags.... Much harder to separate two fags...

that's what the Buske post is for

 

[kiwigtx]

with a crowbar

Navy surplus.

 

[superchrgrheavn]

And it has begun... Unfortunately, the level of butchery is fairly extensive. Looking for advice on how to proceed. Below is the transplant. A 68 Coronet wagon

Here is where things get interesting. Sometime in the 90s, someone thought it smart to stick-weld the supports to the firewall, which warped and swiss-cheesed it fairly well. Is it dumb to cut out a strip of sheet metal around the spot welds on the right and left side of the donor, or should I try to make it straight and try to fix what I already have

Also, probably a good idea to do the same procedure Kern dog went through with this cowl section

 

[1 Wild R/T]

If you need the top of the cowl and the flanges why not section in the whole cowl from the floor seam just above the frame rail to the windshield posts, shame that didn't get cut 6" higher...

 

[superchrgrheavn]

If you need the top of the cowl and the flanges why not section in the whole cowl from the floor seam just above the frame rail to the windshield posts, shame that didn't get cut 6" higher...

Wrong side, but this is the picture I have on hand. Something like this? Cutting out the spot welds at the floor and cowl seams and taking out a section of sheet metal on either side of the old welds that has been warped?

 

[Runcharger]

What Wild is saying is the best way to clip that would have been to use as much as you can, sleeve the windshield posts and join that whole clip to the car about 6 inches up the windshield posts. You need all that sheetmetal off the new clip anyway. So you have to figure out how to use as much of that intact as you can. So you want to use the cowl from the clip, the area where the door hinges bolt on from the clip, everything. With the clip intact as it is right now, everything on it is jigged up correctly, try to use it without cutting it apart.
The less welding you do, the less parts you have to line up correctly. If you join one big part to the rest of the car, you only have do that one lineup (top and bottom of course). If you start cutting parts off and you have to graft 6 separate parts to your car, it's going to take a bunch of time, the welds won't look factory and chances are a few pieces may not fit correctly in the end.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

What Wild is saying is the best way to clip that would have been to use as much as you can, sleeve the windshield posts and join that whole clip to the car about 6 inches up the windshield posts. You need all that sheetmetal off the new clip anyway. So you have to figure out how to use as much of that intact as you can. So you want to use the cowl from the clip, the area where the door hinges bolt on from the clip, everything. With the clip intact as it is right now, everything on it is jigged up correctly, try to use it without cutting it apart.
The less welding you do, the less parts you have to line up correctly. If you join one big part to the rest of the car, you only have do that one lineup (top and bottom of course). If you start cutting parts off and you have to graft 6 separate parts to your car, it's going to take a bunch of time, the welds won't look factory and chances are a few pieces may not fit correctly in the end.

That would be my approach as well, issue is his donor is A/C & the car being repaired is non a/c