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I think there are several factors present on cam failures. For the most part, if you loose one lifter or two, either right after break in, or after several thousand miles, but after the failure, the rest of the cam looks good, that is either soft metal or improper machining on those lobes that...
I think HR5 is pretty much as good as it gets in these old street driven engines with flat tappet cams.
I once drained the oil on an engine that had a zddp additive in it, the zddp additive came out first, then the oil. Not exactly what you hope for with an zddp additive. Lol
The zddp is suppose to reinforce
the film thickness on the metal. If your driving your car too the point that the zddp is gone, you went way past your oil change, especially if that is for the cam break in.
If your adding a zddp additive to your oil after the break in, sending the oil samples...
To check all the boxes properly for street, drag racing and road course type handling it needs to be AWD for that much HP. I would use a proven solid axle in the back and focus on powering the front axle thru a IFS set up like a rally car.
Dang! Having something happen in an airplane thousands of feet off the ground is all kinds of scarry!
On a car with a mechanical and electric pusher pump that you need the fuel pressure only for wide open bursts you can wire in a WOT switch. The electric pump rarely runs then, no worries...
If it is already wired up I would absolute leave it and run both. Get a check valve system to bypass like the pic, add a electric switch to turn in off separately. Then you have a back up when the mechanical pump craps out, don’t have to run it if you don’t need it, but you can prime the engine...
I have had great luck with systems like that. Carter sells a check valve set up that lets the mechanical pump bypass the electric pump when it is shut off. I run one. The mechanical pump will also pull thru some electric pumps with almost no restrictions with the electric pump shut off...
The Engle’s grind would have (about) 8* more duration if you converted it’s seat specs from .008” to .006”. 9014 would run around 40* overlap at .006” tappet. For most the smaller Engle Mopar grinds add 52* to the .050” number gets you close to the more common .006” rating that most cam...
For new stuff the TRX is my favorite. But I always thought with the right trim the late 70s dodge was sure a contender.
The 79 Dodge pickup in Simon and Simon was the star of the show!I thought it was a step up over the Fall Guy’s GMC for being cool. The Fall Guy GMC was a great looking...
20-40..for 5500 to 6000 RPM….I’d be putting the HV oil pump you have on! It is a big block and easy to change.
You could try too run it with an extra quart of oil with the HV pump. Really won’t matter though, we have ran a HV pump with stock pans with no trouble at all. Most of the bearing...
I would definitely say that 7/9/71 is one of the 230 early blocks. We have one that was cast 7/15/71 out of a 72 New Port. It now has a 4.5” crank in it which dropped in with no machining. Took some work to keep the internal pickup. But no other 400 would be able to take a crank with RB...
The Carburetor shop is the place I know of, and has a ton OEM Carter kit’s on hand, and tons thermoquads in stock.
THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Order information
Yep, only the mid sized version of Grand Prix was what was introduced in 69, Grand Prix was around much earlier. Monte Carlo follow the next year in 70. The Grand Prix in 69 was reworked into a Luxury mid sized platform from the full sized platform which was the Chargers market segment...
Seemed like Plymouths version of the Charger from 68 to 70 was the Sport Satelite. But it lacked the Luxury features the Charger offered, hide aways, sport dash, ect…IRC.. It seems like the 68-70 Coronet 500 being the direct Dodge competition to the Sport Satelite, which even the Charger was...