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Anyone use a 46RE or RH in their BBody?

Nxcoupe

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I think that's the designation, not positive? It's the 727 with overdrive if I'm correct.
My questions are, how did it fit, and what needed to be cut or modified for inastall?
Thanks in advance.
 
I have a buddy that took things one step further. He custom machined the gears and shafts and other components to use all of the over drive components in a stock production 727 big block case. He even had articles in magazines to show his success. However, he could new find enough backing to mass produce the parts and assembly the transmissions.
 
The transmission crossmember needs to be modified, and where the T-bar brace goes up into the trans tunnel, it needs to be cut back and reinforced.
All the OD transmissions have the small block bellhousing setup, but can be adapted to a big block using the JW Performance Ultra Bell adaptor: 92457 / Ultra-Bell Big Block Chrysler to TF727 or A518
The ultra-bell, you cut the small block bellhousing off at the pump, and the new bellhousing bolts to the transmission at the pump.
JVX also sells a adaptor plate, but it moves everything back 1/2" and you have to cut the stock bellhousing for the starter.
The RH (Hydraulic Governor) is the most common as it will shift 1-3 like a 727, and only electronics are lockup and overdrive.
The RE (Electronic) you will need electronics to read the output shaft (electronic speedometer) sensor, and the pulse width modulate the governor pressure solenoid to increase pressure with output shaft speed. The transmission had a pressure sensor at the solenoid so the electronics can check the pressure is raising with speed correctly to get the 123 shift points.
 
I’ll be following this. I’ve been wondering the same things.
 
The transmission crossmember needs to be modified, and where the T-bar brace goes up into the trans tunnel, it needs to be cut back and reinforced.
All the OD transmissions have the small block bellhousing setup, but can be adapted to a big block using the JW Performance Ultra Bell adaptor: 92457 / Ultra-Bell Big Block Chrysler to TF727 or A518
The ultra-bell, you cut the small block bellhousing off at the pump, and the new bellhousing bolts to the transmission at the pump.
JVX also sells a adaptor plate, but it moves everything back 1/2" and you have to cut the stock bellhousing for the starter.
The RH (Hydraulic Governor) is the most common as it will shift 1-3 like a 727, and only electronics are lockup and overdrive.
The RE (Electronic) you will need electronics to read the output shaft (electronic speedometer) sensor, and the pulse width modulate the governor pressure solenoid to increase pressure with output shaft speed. The transmission had a pressure sensor at the solenoid so the electronics can check the pressure is raising with speed correctly to get the 123 shift points.
Thanks! So I want the RH then as I have not seen anyone advertising a controller for the RE. I imagine the driveshaft is shorter? Yoke the same as a 727?
 

Tim, the owner has one in his charger. I have one of their a500's in my fury since 2007 or so.
 
i'm putting an RE into my 73 charger. i found a controller online that will operate the transmission. going in with a fuel injected 5.2magnum engine
 
i'm putting an RE into my 73 charger. i found a controller online that will operate the transmission. going in with a fuel injected 5.2magnum engine
What is the name of the controller manufacturer?
 
A Silver Sport 4L60E is a much easier fit if you really want an overdrive. Though with either trans you would have to drive it daily for years to recoup the cost of the swap. hiftsst.com/a41x-4l60e-4-speed-automatic-for-mopar-dodge-and-ram/p219?srsltid=AfmBOop1DB5ssjrxn7HeXJn5xg7jQBl_WXgnlOgDM4UXrEEXwCXEqCGZ
Doug
Recoup money? Lol, it's a hobby, I don't do things to recoup any money, just to make it more drivable.
But, I already have a BB mopar to 4L60e bellhousing as I am contemplating that swap but then the 46RH came up in discussion and that intrigued me. My holley will control the 4L60e, but having a GM trans in my car doesn't sit well.
Overall goal is overdrive for long drives and less wear and tear on the engine. Plus some improved fuel economy to be able to drive further between fill ups.
 
Unless it's an all out racecar i think the 4L60 is a better choice. Better 1st gear ratio. Fits way better. But by the time you're done it's looking at $7000. Not everyone has that kind of budget. For those who don't need to worry about costs, good for them.
Doug
 
Unless it's an all out racecar i think the 4L60 is a better choice. Better 1st gear ratio. Fits way better. But by the time you're done it's looking at $7000. Not everyone has that kind of budget. For those who don't need to worry about costs, good for them.
Doug
How does it end up being 7k? Can't you adapt the stock shifter? I have the bellhousing, I'd need to fab a crossmember, and my Holley can control it. So I guess flexplate, trans core, converter, etc. This will be behind 350 rwhp max, I estimate.
 
I think your better if using an 8HP70. They are more indestructible, supposedly up to 900 HP stock. There are some drag and drive guys starting to use 8HP70’s behind other brands, I think someone is offering the electronics to operate them for around $2K.
 
How does it end up being 7k? Can't you adapt the stock shifter? I have the bellhousing, I'd need to fab a crossmember, and my Holley can control it. So I guess flexplate, trans core, converter, etc. This will be behind 350 rwhp max, I estimate.
The Silver State kit is $6K + crossmember fab, driveshaft, wiring, shifter. Yes the 518 would be cheaper if you bought the trans as a core. It still needs to be rebuilt. lThen you'll need a driveshaft, adapter, or an Ultrabell (along with the stock bellhousing milled off), torque converter, flexplate, custom cross member, floor pan and upper crossmember fab, controller wiring. If it's a late model needs a controller. Even if you do ALL the labor yourself it's a lot of work and cash to save a few mpg and rpm. But to each there own. We have a rule here. We don't build by commitee. If you want it, go for it.
Doug
 
My fury has the a500 and my charger the tko. Yes they cost money. But the comfort and no compromise on rear gear is the best thing I've spent money on. AC and a stereo that can be heard above the engine as well
 
I think your better if using an 8HP70. They are more indestructible, supposedly up to 900 HP stock. There are some drag and drive guys starting to use 8HP70’s behind other brands, I think someone is offering the electronics to operate them for around $2K.
Russell Drake from sound German supplies the controller no need to modify the internal ECU in the box easy to install all you need is TPS & RPM for input uses late Challenger gear shift.
 
I would do the 46rh, A518 pre 1993, 46re, 8hp70 in that order. I have a bad taste in my mouth from the GM overdrive transmission from past experiences in GM products. I would never put one in my MOPAR. If you do either of the first 3 you can reuse you shifter, your trans cooler lines if you did the A518 you can use your current TC. You’ll need a ultra bell or adapter, driveshaft mod, crossmember mod, some means of controlling things with every one of them so thats a wash. Plus you keep your car all MOPAR!
 
I think that's the designation, not positive? It's the 727 with overdrive if I'm correct.
My questions are, how did it fit, and what needed to be cut or modified for inastall?
Thanks in advance.
46RH in my 70 Challenger, Ultrabell behind a 440. Stock TB crossmember. Shift 1/4" after to clear the speedo drive. Ribs on the OD need to be shaved. I built my own controller.

Copy (2) of IMG00202.jpg


Copy (3) of IMG00206.jpg
 
46RH in my 70 Challenger, Ultrabell behind a 440. Stock TB crossmember. Shift 1/4" after to clear the speedo drive. Ribs on the OD need to be shaved. I built my own controller.

View attachment 1849950

View attachment 1849951
Thanks! I wondered why everyone was cutting things up, it looked like the tailshaft was just a bit longer.
Doesn't the RH still need 12V to activate lock up and OD?
 
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