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Sure, that adds up. I’ll get the correct springs etc and adjust and then see how it is. If not, it’s time for the disc brake swap that Ive got sat on the shelfalong with the correct Dr Diff master.

Final pics. The other rear drum has better fitting return springs but the same bodged fittings are used on the bottom star adjuster. Thanks again for advice. I’m ordering parts but noted that this morning the brake pedal went to the floor including when the park brake is applied.

Thanks Bob/guys, just a final thought that may be the cause of the brake pedal feeling as if the master cylinder is failing. when I stripped the rear brake drum off ready to remove the axle, I went round to the drivers side to get some tools and applied the E brake fully....with the brake drum...

Ah yes, thanks, now I see.

Sorry, not sure what you mean about that.

The adjuster does sit correctly between the two shoes I believe, but the double spring thing is clearly not correct.

Thanks again guys, totally appreciate the advice and expertise. I don’t mind shipping over new brake parts, it’s safety that matters. I did wonder about the brake shoes. Car is a 1967 Coronet base 440 model with 10” drums all round. From memory the other rear brake set up is correct but I’ll...

Thanks all, for quick and helpful responses. The car was a barn find and a previous owner has lashed this brake set up with whatever is at hand. The correct spring on Rockauto is indeed a shorter version. I understand now why it’s pushing and not pulling. the bottom spring for the manually...

I tried the flip, but the hook for the brake shoe then faces away from the shoe. I’m also not sure that spring should be up against the wheel cylinder so much.

Hi all, earlier this week I had to pull an axle to replace a leaking seal. The brake bar for the parking brake was preventing me getting the axle out so I loosened the brake shoe return springs and did the axle job and put the brakes back together. I now have the symptoms of a failing master...

Thanks, all hoses and cylinders etc are new. I loosened the end play on the axle and it seems less hot now after a test run.

Ok all, I managed to remove the old seal and get a new one in, but it was quite a job as there is damaged material that the seal has to be pushed past to seat. Only done 30 mins driving so too early to see if it’s leaking yet. Im only able to set the axle end play by feel as I have no dial...

Yes, I thinks that’s the need.

I do have a set Green bearings which I could install which from what I’ve read removes the necessity of having the inner seal.

Sure, I was just trying to work out whether the old seal was still in there and it seems it still is. Looks like some cool has been in there with a hammer and a chisel at some point

Thank you. Yes, some nasty bodge work on that spring. I did know about it, but for some reason can’t seem to find that particular spring. I’ll look at that E brake set up too.

Thanks, it’s a 1967 Coronet. So basically I need to remove the remains Of the seal and then take a look.

Thanks, but all the guides state that the seal can be replaced without need to remove brake hardware. My main concern is whether my pics show the remnants of the old seal still in the axle or whether that is the seal flange that the seal goes up against.

Hi all, I want to replace the rear axle seals but once I pulled the axle I’m pretty confused about what I’m looking at. Firstly, in the first pic,is that the seal I can see, or is that a shoulder that it rests against? secondly, the metal where the seal should go is horribly scarred and it...

Thanks for posting. I guess that settles it: no provision from the factory