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Yes. That is new. Didn't do that before all this started. The carb sat on the shelf for about 3.5 months.

If the carb were totally out of wack, or in need of a rebuild, would that make the motor knock if it were running too lean?

I did a compression test and here are the results. (Cylinder #- PSI Reading) 1-160#, 2-175#, 3-160#, 4-180#, 5-165#, 6-161#, 7-164#, 8-150#. It seems to me cylinder 8 has something going on?

So this thing has small block lifters in it?? I didn't know they were interchangeable. They look a lot like ones for a big block from CompCams or even Summit's version.

That's exactly what mine look like. So I have an early model valve train. Great. I was hoping the previous owner changed all that with the cam swap. All well.

Ah, yes..I did notice the seat was a little different. I talked to a guy at Summit too and he said the same thing. I took a couple of the lifters in question apart to see if the springs were broken and they weren't. But that doesn't mean anything I suppose.

What are the differences between lifters from a 65 and older RB compared to a later 60's 440? Some site show sets that fit year ranges from 1958 to 1965 and others only from 68-72. I thought the valve train in the big block were all the same?? I checked out a lifter from a 67/68 440 and compared...

The MSD is grounded to the back of the block. The battery is grounded to the front of the block and the block is grounded to a stud where the master cylinder plate is on the firewall.

Will a bad lifter always show up as a loose rocker arm?

10 degrees at idle.

I pulled it out. Removed the intake, distributor (being careful not to turn it or the crank), exhaust manifolds, oil pan, vc, water pump. and flywheel. Cleaned everything, painted and reinstalled it all. Installed a new pilot bushing too. I did turn the rotating assembly at one point to check...

I've checked the wires 4 times. They're in the right order going counter clockwise 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. I took a better video and you can really hear the knocking on it. The sound seems central to the motor yet I notice it more on the cylinder 6 and 8 side/area. I pulled each plug wire for those...

I got the 413 installed and running but man is it having trouble. It's popping through the carb on acceleration (I checked the wiring, timing, etc. It runs an MSD box and factory electronic dizzy) and the oil pressure isn't steady like it used to be. It's also has a very noticeable knock now...

Got it in! I put it on my drill press, since I don't have a belt sander, and used that to spin the bushing while I held some sand paper to it. Thanks for the tips dadsbee!

Any suggestions on how? The machine shop here is closed on the weekends.

The ID in the crank measures .913 and the room temp bushing OD is .940. Even the frozen bushing OD is still .940 so that didn't make a difference. Glad I picked three of these up. It's going to be along Saturday...

There was a bushing in there so I assume it has been finished. Although the crank ID seems a lot smaller than the bushing OD to me. I'll measure them in a bit.

With the bushing being made of a soft metal, I didn't know if the freezing would weaken it any. I've already split one of these trying to install it.

Would it do any damage to the bushing if I left it in the freezer over night?

Dude, relax. It was just a simple question.