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You are going to want the dash, vinyl top and headliner installed before the windshield and back glass. The stainless trim is held by clip that are screwed to the body. These must be installed before the glass. Short clips on side and top. Long clips on the bottom. Windshield is held in by a...

A butyl type sealant was used originally and is probably easiest for you to use and install for your first time. It will also give you a even height for your trim. Definitely use a helper. Dry set the glass and put a piece of tape on the body and glass to help center it for the final set. Best...

Prices on 2nd gens are nuts. If it looks solid , the workmanship looks good and it's within your budget. Maybe just do a better rattle can flat black job and enjoy it. Paint is expensive and it's going the get look because it's a 2nd gen charger.

Maybe you know this. But looking at your picture. The outside flap of the gasket tucks under the outside inner portion to compress it against the glass for a seal.

68 charger uses a rubber gasket for the windshield , you need something that pumps. Butyl rope would be for the backglass. 5/16, maybe 1/4 for that.

Did you break it trying to remove the molding

Your windshield is cracked, get a new one. My original gasket wasn't torn and wasn't hard so I reused it with pilkington glass

It's a difficult job saving boh glass and gasket . Especially if the gasket is old and hard or if the windshield was glued in. The deep black in the corner of your picture looks like it's glued in but maybe it's just the lighting. These late 60s Bodies require sealer between the body and gasket...

Year. Make. Model 3m bedding and glazing Sika 714 Cr Laurence crl7708

There should be clip that hold the windshield molding on. They need to be installed before the windshield. The long clips go on the bottom. I have read that early build 68 cars got extra long clips. I believe these were 67 clips.

If the gasket uses a lock strip or a flap that locks the gasket like 68-70 Bodies, it goes on the body first with a nonhardening sealant. If there is no locking mechanism it goes on the glass and is roped in.

There are a number of rollers that can rust to the shafts or break. Go on youtube and search " mopar B body rear window regulator removal" for an idea of the parts.

On a 68 charger, the short ones go on the sides and top. Long one on the bottom. I've heard early build 68s used 67 clips on the bottom which are supposed to be longer than later build 68.

Not familiar with 66. But the yellow with the stamped depression looks like a place for a trim clip to be screwed. The red looks like a gasket retaining tabs.

The people that have knowledge are few, so companies don't want to touch them. Old stuff can be a pita and cost businesses more in the end then they charged the customer. Is you gasket rope in style or does it have another groove on the outside that takes a lock strip.

I got a acetone and abs glue from the plumbing department when I fixed my 69 charge grill.

I have been using the same piece of clothes line for the last 30 years to rope glass in. Put the glass in the gasket and then the rope in the gasket starting from the bottom. I use spray can glass cleaner as a lubricant. Set the glass in the opening. Pull one side of the rope around the first...

It's not difficult, but watch some YouTube videos. Make sure to use sealant between the body and the windshield gasket. With that said. Glass shops don't want the headache of dealing with older cars. 1) almost nobody has experience or sometime specialty tools for older stuff. 2) used, restored...

No they don't make a larger windshield. They do make generic window trim in different shapes and sizes. If you have an auto glass warehouse near you, they may have a display of what they carry. You would also need a way to attractively trim out the inside as well.

Check the curing temps when using two part systems. I wound think below 60 degrees it won't cure properly.