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Paintless dent removal is common here in Australia, the guys are very good and use a range of hammers mostly, some long thin ones they can slip behind trims - the glue method is mostly for areas where they can't get behind. One guy told me he would hit a dent lightly hundreds and hundreds of...

Unless the decal has been made to fit the cone shape you have to cut a wedge out of it and have a join. That's what I had to do on the custom decal I made up for my poly. No way around it unless it's designed from the outset to fit. I put the join at the back so it's less visible.

It looks like your buffing the chrome off! I just do mine by hand with Autosol metal polish.

Damm shame. I hate car covers for that reason (moisture/rubbing). Can you build a carport or buy a kit or something instead if you're forced to keep the car outside?

I wasn't expecting to spend anything more than the paint for sure, but it was sort of enjoyable fixing it. The poly valve covers have such detail I thought I'd try something different

Finally got it all back together. Got the distributor in roughly the right place, took it for a warm up and then went to set the timing. Left the timing light on the fender for a moment, it fell into the fan and made a bit of a mess. Once I'd unwapped all the wire from the pulleys there was...

Everything was going well, all done in a few hours, time to re-assemble everything.... Stripped a bolt at the back of the intake that doubles as a hold down for the kickdown/throttle bracket. Had to buy a helicoil kit to repair, and had to remove the distributor to get access with a drill. This...

My engine builder decided on orange when he repainted my poly stroker. It was red when I dropped it off. Last weekend I decided to repaint it red and spruce up the rocker covers while I there. This was before I removed everything that was easy and got to painting.

I can offer no help on the convertible top, but I have to say that's a nice looking car!

The frame rails in the photos look good but beware, these cars can have most of the rails near perfect and then have a massive hole or dodgy area limited to only one section. CHECK EVERYWHERE! You need to obviously check that grey covered area too. Look inside the front wheel arches, where the...

I went through the same thing before I painted my engine bay. After doing plenty of research I decided not to spray 2k and went with a single stage without the isocyanates. I have a Sundstrom respirator which works well and the engine bay turned out fine (except it was the wrong color, another...

This is almost exactly the same process my chassis guy followed. If the OP follows this he should be fine.

I had a similar problem - mine had spread (or probably started) at the UCA mounting points. A local chassis guy installed the new shocktowers/uca mounts and re-built the rusted section of the frame rails from scratch. I think he butt welded them but then welded plates over both sides too for...

Unless the car is a high value model or has some sentimental value, I wouldn't even bother stripping it and blasting it. From those limited photos the rust looks terminal. If the body is that bad everywhere (which it's likely to be if you have rust in the roof, cowl, door pillars, quarters)...

Buy some sheetmetal from a local steel supplier. Cut out the bad bits. Pay a mobile welding guy to weld the patches in for you. Paint them with epoxy and then seam sealer on the edges. Budget job but will be structurally solid.

I painted mine black. Not to fool anyone into thinking it's a GTX, just because I felt the 66 front end was too bland with the Citron Gold paint, and also there is an Australian Holden that has a very similar front end and I didn't want my car to look like that. I sprayed mine Satin Black with...

Upper hinges appear to be the same. I just had another look at the driver's door lower hinge and it too has the inverted U bar, but it's in a different location - I took a better photo.

Hi I have 2 different lower door hinges on my 66 Satellite. The passenger side hinge (2nd photo) is playing up - the door jumps a bit when closing from fully open to partially open, as the guide wheel moves over the inverted U shaped bar. The driver's side door has a different type of hinge...

I may well be talking ****.... I'm sure I had to have access to the underside of the fender as I needed a washer under there larger than the hole in the fender. My antenna is probably not factory though.

You can replace it without removing the fender. You will need to remove the splashshield in the wheel arch to access the antenna base locking nut though.