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Now, I have another question. Will the U-joint on the drive shaft that was for his 8 1/4 rear end bolt into the yoke of the 742 rear end? Also, will the drive shaft be the correct length? Keep in mind, presently 318 with 904 transmission going into an 8 1/4.

It is an 8 1/4, 318 engine. He is deciding whether to put a 383 the car or keep the 318 and put 340 heads and intake on.

My husband was looking to change out his 81/4 rear end for a SG. He didn't know which one would be correct for the car.

In a 1969 Satellite, is it correct for a 742 Sure Grip or would it have been an 489? Thank you, Mrs. 69/70Plymies

Do you know if they are identical (same part #)?

Is the ignition coil bracket from a 1967 318 Poly intake manifold the same as the one for a 1970 340-4 bbl intake manifold? Or will it at least "work" on the 340?

You've touched on an interesting point....If the PCV valve rattles, does that mean it's good? Anything else to check in order to verify the PCV system is working properly?

A couple questions: 1) Did you use any sealant? 2) Was your oil pan flange completely flat? I have the stock #402 pan for 383, but the flanges on the sides have stamped, raised middle sections creating noncontinuous contact surfaces. Appreciate everyone's help.

An additional bit of info: I'm trying to decide to try this nylon windage tray with its own gaskets formed right in the tray itself or go with a standard steel windage tray with two "Superformance" brand oil pan gaskets. I have never used these Superformance gaskets. In the past I've used...

Part # MRE20998 at Mancini Racing. I think JEGS, also. I was told the drag racers use them with great results. They're made in USA. BASF may be the manufacturer.

Need to ask fellow Moparheads about their opinion on the one piece, glass-filled nylon windage trays for '70 383. These have the "built-in" rubber gaskets. They claim they solve the oil leakage problem at the oil pan. Anyone know about these?

Well, I opened up the steering column and got re-educated on the internal design. I need to correct my previous statement. I replaced the lock cylinder 2-3 yrs. ago, not the ign. switch. I removed the actual ign. switch and found out it was very worn out. I took another out of a parts car and...

To: NJRR Appreciate all the photos. They did answer some questions. I found out my console is indeed for my 4 speed, but the driver's side trim piece is like yours in the photo (for an automatic). Guess I'll be selling that piece! To: Rick Thanks for your help.

Thanks to all. I guess I'll leave it hanging.

I am in the process of putting together my 4-speed console. Does anyone have a diagram of the different parts of the console and where they go? (i.e. trim pieces, carpet pieces, etc.) I have tried to look on line and am not having any luck. Thank you.

Thank you for the info. The reason I was wondering is two fold. One, there are retainer brackets in the dash frame for other modules, but I could not see one for the time delay relay module. Two, the time delay relay module tends to get fairly warm when you're running the car. - - - Updated -...

Does the time delay relay on a 1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite need to be grounded?

With the instrument panel out of the car is there a way to test the fuel gauge and see if it is good. If there is continuity, does that mean it's good?

I have a 1970 Plymouth B-body standard dash. With the voltage limiter removed, should there be continuity at the posts for the fuel gauge? With the wires disconnected, should there be continuity across the ammeter? Thank you.

To HT413: Unfortunately for me, I think your right. I'll start with the fuse box, then the harness connection at the steering column. What's your opinion of how I cleaned the bulkhead (using dielectric grease)? Should I re-do it? Lastly, I guess I'll have to dig into the ignition switch on...