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Nylon windage trays good or not?

69/70Plymies

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Need to ask fellow Moparheads about their opinion on the one piece, glass-filled nylon windage trays for '70 383. These have the "built-in" rubber gaskets. They claim they solve the oil leakage problem at the oil pan. Anyone know about these?
 
I see them on summit ....I cant say I have ever had one leak tho...
 
Never heard of such a thing. Who makes it?
Part # MRE20998 at Mancini Racing. I think JEGS, also. I was told the drag racers use them with great results. They're made in USA. BASF may be the manufacturer.
 
I have had one hanging on the wall for awhile. My pan gasket started leaking a bit so I may try it.
 
An additional bit of info: I'm trying to decide to try this nylon windage tray with its own gaskets formed right in the tray itself or go with a standard steel windage tray with two "Superformance" brand oil pan gaskets. I have never used these Superformance gaskets. In the past I've used steel trays with standard cork gaskets using 3M yellow adhesive to seal everything. This stops oil leaks for sure, but it's a real pain in the rear to remove the pan, later.
 
I bought one from Jegs over a year ago. Made installation much easier, as you're not trying to line up 3 different things at once from under the car, on your back. It is re-usable and well worth the money. Highly recommend it.
 
I bought one from Jegs over a year ago. Made installation much easier, as you're not trying to line up 3 different things at once from under the car, on your back. It is re-usable and well worth the money. Highly recommend it.
A couple questions: 1) Did you use any sealant? 2) Was your oil pan flange completely flat? I have the stock #402 pan for 383, but the flanges on the sides have stamped, raised middle sections creating noncontinuous contact surfaces. Appreciate everyone's help.
 
I tried one and no matter what, I couldn't get one of the bolt holes to line up. I've read good things about them so I'd try one again, but ended up going with a traditional piece because I had one laying around.
 
I've had one for a couple of years now, much easier to install under the car and works great, no leaks.

I did fill the dimples in the stamped steel pan with JB weld an sanded everything flat, also applied thin layer of oil to both sides to keep it from sticking.
 
1) No, did not use any sealer. 2) I currently have a 402 pan on my motor. I just used a dolly and hammer to flatten the 'dimples' around all the bolt holes, something I always do when installing pans or steel valve covers. I think the trick is to not 'crank' down on the mounting bolts. You don't want to completely crush the rubber. I just snugged down all the bolts and then after several days of driving it, went back and snugged them again. Also, make sure you have a properly operating PCV system to decrease crankcase pressure. Worked for me...
 
I use one on a 440 with a Milodon flat flange pan with no sealant and no leaks.

I think they require a flat flange, if I recall correctly.
 
1) No, did not use any sealer. 2) I currently have a 402 pan on my motor. I just used a dolly and hammer to flatten the 'dimples' around all the bolt holes, something I always do when installing pans or steel valve covers. I think the trick is to not 'crank' down on the mounting bolts. You don't want to completely crush the rubber. I just snugged down all the bolts and then after several days of driving it, went back and snugged them again. Also, make sure you have a properly operating PCV system to decrease crankcase pressure. Worked for me...
You've touched on an interesting point....If the PCV valve rattles, does that mean it's good? Anything else to check in order to verify the PCV system is working properly?
 
I put one on my 63 2 years ago with a stock pan and no leaks. I did use a 4 drops of RTV at the front and back where there are seams (front timing cover and rear main). I liked that I should be able to reuse it. Good luck.
 
Another OLD trick is to use some string and tie each corner.Lining up the 2 gaskets and the tray can be a challenge.Start all the bolts,then cut the string and pull it out.
Gotta use the small skinny string.:thumbsup:
 
440 is a easy one to seal. RTV on the block, both side of the tray and especially the pan. It doesn't take much. 1/16" bead on everything but the pan which needs a little over 1/8"
Use a good pair of gaskets such as Superformance. DO NOT overtighten, snug with a 1/4" ratchet or even a nut driver. It will not leak.
Doug
 
I used one of these gaskets. Sealed very well. When I pulled the pan, the sealing ridges on the gasket were distorted, and torn. I'm not sure why. I think it might be due to the hot engine, although it runs 180 to 190*. Went back to the original style.
 
re; the PCV valve. Not necessarily. Yes, the 'pill' inside should rattle, but there is also a spring, which if it's really old may impede the valve's operation. Normally, if one valve cover has an 'open' breather (or a hose that connects to the air filter) and the other valve cover has a 'correct' valve for that motor, that sucks your finger tight against the valve's end at idle, you should be fine.
 
Got one in my BB, mine came from Summit and is a quality looking piece.
 
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