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A spark plug socket and box end wrench as noted plus a ratchet and extensions is all it takes.

I've used both, and where I'd pick Evans is he'll customize a harness for you so you don't need to splice it...In my case it was adding in a power wire for an electric choke on one.

M&H is the company that makes OEM style harnesses, but they don't sell direct so you'll need to go through either Year One, or Mega Parts USA.

If you're going the factory style, there's no complete car kit, but individual harnesses you'd need to purchase separately from either Mega parts or Year One - the distributors for M&H harnesses. There's painless wiring kits if you wish to go aftermarket.

That sucks, but at least on a 68-70 Rally Dash B Body it's the only gauge that's easily removed from the car without having to take the entire cluster out.

What does the FSM show for a diagram? Separate or integral with the dash harness??

I'd agree with what was posted and as I mentioned before, which is the hot side of the amp gauge is used, but it's a **** design and you should consider using a relay instead as drawing all the amperage through the bulkhead for the top motor is asking for trouble down the road.

If it's like a 70, it goes right off the hot side of the AMP gauge, which is horrible and I'd recommend a relay instead.

Do you have an extra signal switch laying around? If yes, you can test that the one in there is bad by plugging it in under the dash and seeing what happens before you pop the steering wheel off and going through that whole deal. For 70's it's the same where the signal switch controls the...

Solid greay wire on my 70 RR is for the clock, BUT there's no screw hole on it. You can see it at the bottom of the plastic housing for the tic-toc-tach. Hope this pic helps!

FYI those repop sending units are notorious for being off. You test the unit before putting it in using an ohm meter as I think the FSM has the proper readings in it.

Go for the low-hanging fruit first, and check the front bulbs. If ok, electrical bugs are always divide and conquer! I'd disconnect the front lamp harness at the bulkhead, and test there to see if you're getting anything on the dash side. Turn on the turn signal switch, and a test light will...

Stuart, I installed a new 70 one on my ride. The only down side for these is there's some extra crap in there I don't need for a Charger, and I just taped those connections up. Everything else was simple plug-n-play.

I ran into the dash lights issue with my ol' 68 Dart, too, and it was a gear selector light wire in the steering column that was "pinched"; ie grounding against the column and after I taped up the exposed wire, it solved the problem. The other fuse you're blowing is probably due to a...

Cool, glad that worked out for you! One thing you may want to confirm is if M&H's light harness for your car, like my 70 RR, has extra wires for a Charger. These can either be taped off or clipped and taped over. If you don't want to go that route, eagle, you can have one made by Evans...

Not sure if they're on there or not, but you can always call the manufacturer (M&H) directly as they have a tech line. See www.wiringharness.com.

If you have a 70 Charger, I assume you have a ralley dash. If yes, do a search on this part HU272B. Here's the description - HU272B - Dash harness, 1970 Plymouth and Dodge B-body models with oil gauge, reproduction.

There could be issues with the used part, and I doubt it will even work for your Charger as I think they had some extra wiring for the doors. If you're going to go through the hassle of yanking out the old one, I'd replace with a new part. Go with the ones sold through YO, which are made by...

Wonder if the same issue (dim lights at low RPM's) could have been solved with a smaller sized alternator pulley? Has anyone tried this???

I also remember reading about a kit in MCG a while back that was similar to the prev post on running a different wire off the alt. Think it was called "wiring harness preserver" or something to that effect, and basically, it bypassed the amp guage. Was also supposed to cure dim lights at idle...